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Cleaning up Adhesive

I'm posting this because a member had a question about this in the genral forum. Try it for yourself. The key to this technique is a good solvent that will break the adhesive down. I have found nothing better (solution) than what I mention in the following:

Nothing seems to come easy when removing old snotted up adhesive. What I do to cut down on the amount that gets everywhere is this: I use a product called DE-Solve-It, you probably remember me saying something about it. when i get the adhesive exposed i spray it and the stuff i use breaks it down to where when I take a razor blade (in a holder by the way, i mention the holder cause Ive seen people just hold the razor in bare hand) and scrape, it all collects in a uniform "glob o snot". I scrape left to right on the first pass. The blade collects the "snot" and I wipe the blade off of any adhesive. Then I scrape top to bottom and repeat the wiping of the "snot" and repeat the 2 steps until clean.

The reason for the "left to right" then "top to bottom" procedure is because Ive noticed that when you scrape in one direction sometimes, the ahesive might not come off on that pass. If you change directions, it will usually come off scraping from another direction. Plus its all about being thorough.

I have much less "snot" to clean off of everything else when I wipe the blade after each pass. It would be hard to cut it down to zero "snot" on the panel but it does well. Hope that helps TTC.




19 Comments

I have used DeSolveIt in the past and it does work on some of the adhesives that the film manufacturer's use but when it comes to Solargard adhesive, it doesn't do anything. I have tried Goof Off, Goo Gone, and even the 3M adhesive remover and nothing penetrated the glue.
What I use is Easy Off Oven Cleaner in the BLUE CAN. Do not use the yellow can because it is really potent. You can either tape off everything and spray it on the rear window or spray it on a rag and wipe it on. Make sure you wear a glove and DO NOT get it in your eyes.
Let it sit around for about 15 minutes and then use a white scrub pad to get the glue off. Use a squeegee to get that goo off and wipe it off. The trick is you have to remove all the film before any desolving agent can work. If there is a layer of clear film still on the glass, nothing will work to remove it except for soap water and a razor blade.
I wish somebody would make something that is less toxic that is effective for adhesive removal for any brand of window film. Till then, I will stick with oven cleaner for those extra hard glue removal jobs. :lol
uuhhhhh, mmmmmm, uuhhhhh :lol

go post your own tip of the week. :poop :lol j/k

Ive never had a problem with my solvent so that means it works on everything :lo :lol6

tintfx, on Dec 17 2003, 12:36 PM, said:

uuhhhhh, mmmmmm, uuhhhhh  :poop

go post your own tip of the week.  :lol :lol6 j/k
The holidays are here and I felt like GIVING and SHARING.
I GIVE you some of my secret sauce and hopefully TD will GIVE us a medal so we can SHARE it together. :lol
yeah, :lol6 if he gives one for this topic he'll split it...... 1 for me and one for your BACK UP PLAN too :poop :lol j/k
:lol
DMC..coming through!! :lol
I like to use my tongue and then spit it at SlowTint.
whoooaaaa, thats way too much information there Pro :passout :nope
I find that the best thing that works for me. is just soap and water. ive tried different solvents. and they all seem to give me the snot. but with soap and water it is more like a glob . of easily removed glue . but I do want to check out. the de solv it for the rear
bump :dunno
I just soak it for over 20 minutes in simple green. comes right off
do you delute the simple green? or right out of the bottle?
I use "The RIGHT STUFF" citrus cleaner - it's the most awesome citrus cleaner I've ever seen. It almost instantly clouds the exposed glue white and if left on for a minute almost completely dissolves the glue to the point little is left. The RIGHT STUFF is available at/thru Ace Hardware or Lowe's and of course online. Try it!
I agree with the use of concentrated citrus products. We use one called AERO from our janitorial supplier. It is a water cleanup, orange smelling, quick time system when used in conjunction with a steamer. I like to spray it on and hit it with a white scrubby or steel wool to roughen the surface to increase the surface area and then spray it again. 5 minutes later we are wiping glue off with steel wool which traps it pretty good and is easy to toss away.
I like to use mounting solution containing baby shampoo and water for rollups or quarters and lemon ammonia w/rubbing alcohol for back glass. Use fine steel wool and mask off and protect interior as much as possible and use a good respirator cause of the ammonia . Has worked well for me
I like to use Ammonia mixed with Bleach for that really toxic smell...

(just Kidding) :lol
You guys work at this way to hard,tape up vinyl around window ,put small tarp in back window and spray gasket remover like you use on a car motor,film starts letting go of adhesive ,pull tint off ,spray again and in 5 to 10 minutes wipe what hasnt fell on the tarp with paper towels ,then clean with glass cleaner after you dump tarp wash off put up for another day,I always wear chemical gloves.Never have I had to use razor blades I have stripped way more than I can count for dealers doing detail work but now that I tint only had to do one to tint the car from film turning purple :lol6
hey TB I wonder how that would work (gasket remover) when 'bagging' or sweating the film off :hmmm
Never had to do either because the gasket remover acts so fast at making the tint bubble up and release :shock dont do anything except pull off then wipe off during second step.Never even heard of bagging or sweating until tint school ,been doing the other way for 7 years(Tip from an Old Time Detailer 23 years experience) :thumb