Troubleshooting a Viper remote starter
December 16 2004 - 12:49 PM
[Before you reply with something witty to say about Ford vehicles or Viper alarms, please understand I really don't care. I owe no allegiance to either, this was just the choice I made at the time.]
Anyway, everything functioned fine until early this year. Then the remote start function ceased to work, although the lock/unlock and engine disable still works fine. There was actually a brief period when the remote starter magically began working again, but it didn't last.
I have the Viper operating instructions and some limited information I found on line, but nothing indicates this function can be programmed out (accidentally) from the remote. I also checked the connections on the Viper controller as best I could, and looked at where it's wired into the fuse block. Everything appeared OK.
At approximately the same time the problem began, there were 2 other changes with the vehicle. I had a second coded key made and programmed in by a Ford dealer, and I bought and programmed a second viper remote by following the instructions I have (and it functions exactly the same as the original). I don't recall the remote starter suddenly failing immediately after either event, but they might be relevant.
Now that it's getting cold again, I thought I should ask for help.
December 16 2004 - 12:59 PM
December 16 2004 - 04:56 PM
When I try the remote start function, power gets to the starter motor but the engine doesn't spark. I assume this is related to the vehicle's engine disable feature.
>>>kccartint - thanks for your quick response. I assume that the "tach connection" you refer to is the tachometer cable, but I didn't realize that connects to the Viper unit. I have to admit I don't know what the "hoop pin switch" is. Auto electrical is not my specialty.
December 16 2004 - 05:43 PM
December 16 2004 - 09:06 PM
December 17 2004 - 07:44 AM
December 17 2004 - 05:23 PM
1. insert key into the ignition, and turn to the ON position (not start)
2. after the 'theft' light goes out (in the gauge cluster) turn off and remove key
3. IMMEDIATELY insert second key (not same as in step 1) and turn to the ON position.
4. after the theft light goes out, IMMEDIATELY turn off and remove key....without wasting any time...
5. activate the remote start.... it should run and you're all warm for the winter.
when the ford dealer programmed your 'new' key, they 'bumped' out the 'bypass mod. ' or PATS interface... this will fix your dilemma.
December 18 2004 - 08:35 AM
I followed your instructions to the letter several times (waiting at least a minute between each try). My swap-over time between each key was only a second or two, and the remote start has maybe a 4-5 second delay when activated immediately after the last key. The remote start causes the theft light to flash rapidly, and again the starter turns over but no spark.
Of course, if I leave one of the keys in the ignition, the remote start works fine. This is one way to get around the problem, but it does make the vehicle much easier to steal!
Following kccartint's advice, I tried to find the remote start module. All I found was a group of 5 relays taped together, one was a Bosch and the others were all marked DEI 710T. I have eyeballed the main control unit before, but I must have done a really good job of putting it back under the dash because it didn't come out again! Of course, freezing temperatures are not the best for working on a vehicle.
Any other suggestions?
December 18 2004 - 09:27 AM
December 18 2004 - 11:24 AM
The keys are indeed on different keyrings. There were 3 fuses connected to the wiring loom with the block of relays, and all of them passed the visual check. As soon as I make some time to get under the dash and find out more, I will be back!
December 21 2004 - 10:33 AM
April 22 2013 - 11:12 AM
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