Commercial windows, one edge trimming Options

[Cuttingedge]

On commercial windows with larger rubber gaskets, just remove the side ones and use the factory edge on the top side, that way all you have to do is trim the bottom edge and just tuck the sides behind the metal edges, bump the edges and then replace the side gaskets. Saves alot of time not having to trim 2-3 edges...and of course no light gaps except maybe a blade width on the bottom edge. The bottom edge is the easiest to trim anyways..

[thatsnappyguy]

i have been doing this for a long time and i would say it is the best way to get the job done faster and easier.

[tint_audiopros]

is this for folks who use pre-cut? Also, what type of commercial windows do the large side rubbers just pull out of im confused. I use a white teflon as a guide & I trim rubber off all the way around for a much cleaner job & also no gap of light.

This has been edited by tint_audiopros: Sep 29 2008, 09:51 PM

[worldtinters]

always use the straight edge for the top .but sometimes theres no gaskets so try to have a straight edge on the top and 1 side so theres just two left to cut

[want2modmygt]

yeah, which windows do the rubbers pull out on? ive seen it done before, but im not sure how to tell which ones i can yank... makes me nervous unless i had a better idea of whassup. i did just say, whassup

[carolinatinter]

most metal framed commercial windows will fall into this category. i remove the gaskets as well.

[metro jim]

there are 2 main styles of commercial glass framing...

1) Known as tube set

2) Curtainwall

Tube set gaskets always come out, but if you remove all of them the glass will flop around, thats why most people only remove the sides. when ever removing the bottom gasket you risk the glass falling off the blocks/spacers witch can cause thermal breakage be cause its unable to expand properly

Curtain wall gaskets should never be removed because most (i said most) can not be reinstalled with out taking the entire unit (frame) or door apart. To meet certain safety attactment system with security films this gasket may be removed, but then replaced with the attatchment system

[TintJunkie]

Pulling the gaskets saves time? I understand the idea of pulling them, but dayum! Anyone doing flat glass should be able to do commercial windows w/o pulling gaskets. I trim gaskets for black out film but never touch them for any other film. If you cut them right, the result is a hairline light gap, that no one will complain about. I don't mean to start any fires here, but I would like others to respond and possibly back me up on this.

[metro jim]

the last 2 jobs I pulled gaskets on were for a black out film, and the other job I had pulled them because the construction debris was awful. I ended up pulling all the gaskets (not at the same time) just to clean them. It actually saved time and film because the windows were that bad!. Most the time I do not pull them. but one time I pulled them and was able to do the exact cut thing (cept for the bottom) using the film handler and it saved a tremendous amount of time. On that job we were working in the sun and the film was prematurely drying out, skippping the side trimming part eleviated the problem and finished the job much faster then expected. these windows were 56" (i remember for 2 years ago) by 120ish" . Speed it not my main concern on jobs anymore, quality is, and I have not had 1 call back since i opened my business, except for a cracked window (35% silver with 30% abs, unbelievable!)

[metro jim]

OH YEAH I FORGOT TO BACK YOU UP.
With all that being said I rarely pull them too, but I do when quality or speed may make a beneficial difference.

JIM

[TintJunkie]

I see why you would on heavily debris covered gaskets, thats a good point. Thanks for backing me up Jim.

[Cuttingedge]

Pulling the gaskets saves time? I understand the idea of pulling them, but dayum! Anyone doing flat glass should be able to do commercial windows w/o pulling gaskets. I trim gaskets for black out film but never touch them for any other film. If you cut them right, the result is a hairline light gap, that no one will complain about. I don't mean to start any fires here, but I would like others to respond and possibly back me up on this.

When you do a darker film on commercial tempered windows, a hairline lightgap looks like crap from a distance on the inside. When you pull the gaskets, it looks like the tint is part of the windows since there are NO lightgaps at all. I am about the finished product and taking the extra time to do this will separate you from the other tint shops in the area and the customer will appreciate it too when you take the time to explain the difference to them when making the sale...

[TintJunkie]

I agree, but rarely do I use a dark enough film on commercial glass that would show a light gap from a distance, but I know what youre saying. If I were to use a dark film, I still wouldn't pull the gaskets b/c the window gets soo loose, I would just trim them.

[Sisqouc]

For those of you who buy and use tools as opposed to improvise or make your own may I suggest one of these Vinyl Glazing Roller Tools.
http://www.dkhardware.com/product-5680-vr0...oller-tool.html



Insert comment "I've been tinting for years and NEVER needed one of those...Here:_____________________________________________________________!

[Cuttingedge]

For those of you who buy and use tools as opposed to improvise or make your own may I suggest one of these Vinyl Glazing Roller Tools.
http://www.dkhardware.com/product-5680-vr0...oller-tool.html



Insert comment "I've been tinting for years and NEVER needed one of those...Here:_____________________________________________________________!

I have a few tools in my box I never use...

[Sisqouc]

I guess that proves my disruptive behavior here is premeditated.
I'll seek counseling ASAP.

[metro jim]

this is the dirty window I pulled the gaskets on..........before


and after.....I even shop vac'd this brick ledge because of the unbelivable amount of dirt, dust, and who knows what else.

[tuttle]

this is the dirty window I pulled the gaskets on..........before


and after.....I even shop vac'd this brick ledge because of the unbelivable amount of dirt, dust, and who knows what else.

i needed 1 last week. 1/4' of plaster dust. what a mess had to wip it all down and still flush and trimed/pulled/cleaned/reistaled/ and tinted. no fun.

[Cuttingedge]

Charge extra for those messy sills.......

[tuttle]

On commercial windows with larger rubber gaskets, just remove the side ones and use the factory edge on the top side, that way all you have to do is trim the bottom edge and just tuck the sides behind the metal edges, bump the edges and then replace the side gaskets. Saves alot of time not having to trim 2-3 edges...and of course no light gaps except maybe a blade width on the bottom edge. The bottom edge is the easiest to trim anyways..

need to be carfull. last week. a 1yr old job cust calls the boss. my sliders wont close. she sent me out and and seen that the on the left slider on the right side/center, rubber had rolled back into the fram forcing the fram into the outher slider. had to send a glass man out to replace the rubber. very old sliders, track was worn out. please be carful on the old sliders. also the slidr handel side, could be that hard to open. trimming the rubber mite loosen causing the frame to pull bach from the fram. me i will still trim the rubber, but checking how well the sliders work if hard to open then dont trim!!! show the tint lines commercial glass i will trim both sides and bottom 1/8 - 1/4 to hide tint lines black out a must, and even the solar films. will pull the side rubbers, and trim bottom rubber. just keeping the glass in place. pulling more than 2 sides, the glass becomes very sloppy, hard to work with

[tuttle]

On commercial windows with larger rubber gaskets, just remove the side ones and use the factory edge on the top side, that way all you have to do is trim the bottom edge and just tuck the sides behind the metal edges, bump the edges and then replace the side gaskets. Saves alot of time not having to trim 2-3 edges...and of course no light gaps except maybe a blade width on the bottom edge. The bottom edge is the easiest to trim anyways..

don't like to tuck, rubber has to tenancy to slide back out popping the film lose. ouch

[TintingGator]

Pulling the gaskets saves time? I understand the idea of pulling them, but dayum! Anyone doing flat glass should be able to do commercial windows w/o pulling gaskets. I trim gaskets for black out film but never touch them for any other film. If you cut them right, the result is a hairline light gap, that no one will complain about. I don't mean to start any fires here, but I would like others to respond and possibly back me up on this.

........ MOST commercial windows are easier to deal with if you just trim the "leading edge" of the gasket ( first 1/4 inch ). Makes for cleaner install also (dirt hides behind there!)....faster too! (no re-install of gasket)... NO light gaps also!!.... however.... some gaskets are too soft ( tube type ) to trim evenly.... PULL GASKETS FROM THE SIDES if you run into this!!! ..... use film handler for TWO STRAIGHT SIDES when possible ( usually the TOP and one side ) ...... ALWAYS "bump" the edges with a towel wrapped hard card then replace the gaskets. Very PRO looking J O B!!

[TintingGator]

On commercial windows with larger rubber gaskets, just remove the side ones and use the factory edge on the top side, that way all you have to do is trim the bottom edge and just tuck the sides behind the metal edges, bump the edges and then replace the side gaskets. Saves alot of time not having to trim 2-3 edges...and of course no light gaps except maybe a blade width on the bottom edge. The bottom edge is the easiest to trim anyways..

need to be carfull. last week. a 1yr old job cust calls the boss. my sliders wont close. she sent me out and and seen that the on the left slider on the right side/center, rubber had rolled back into the fram forcing the fram into the outher slider. had to send a glass man out to replace the rubber. very old sliders, track was worn out. please be carful on the old sliders. also the slidr handel side, could be that hard to open. trimming the rubber mite loosen causing the frame to pull bach from the fram. me i will still trim the rubber, but checking how well the sliders work if hard to open then dont trim!!! show the tint lines commercial glass i will trim both sides and bottom 1/8 - 1/4 to hide tint lines black out a must, and even the solar films. will pull the side rubbers, and trim bottom rubber. just keeping the glass in place. pulling more than 2 sides, the glass becomes very sloppy, hard to work with