Painted Interors

, I have been doing this for 15 years now in my shop, and been loving it. vynial dieing to automotive paint with a high gloss or a low gloss shine, but repairing broken plastic panals is not much fun. I have been using fiberglass resin to coat the plastic and want to know if spraying it out of my paint gun is a good idea.

If you plan on doing that get a cheap gun to use just for that. Spraying resin is really messy but takes alot less time than brushing and gives a nice smooth coat. I have done it both ways for years fabricating parts and on larger stuff it worth it but the small stuff always gets the brush.

i have a question. hopefully you experienced folks can help me.
arite so, i have a light grey interior. grey dash and frost cloth seats. but, ive alwayed wanted a black interior. i wanted to buy the black vinyl paint in the spray cans but was wondering if the vinyl spray paint cans that they sell at autozone are a good buy? do they work well? can the avg joe do this job? also, does the paint stay on forever? or does it come off with time and need reapplication? thanks for the help.

NO DUMB ASS NOT A GOOD IDEA COMMON SENSE PLEASE

ouch.....

i do vinyl repair and i dye seats all day.if you clean it well(very well) it will stay on.it does not last forever but a good time if yo seal the dye correctly. and changing colors is definetely not a good idea as you will alwayas be touching up scratches and worn off spots

Atleast you know how to spell vinyl and dye..The best dye is SEM..no doubt

Vinyl-Guy, did you receive any training in vinyl repair from Thad, of Vinyl-Pro? I have been considering his DVD training, and perhaps later his hands-on instruction.

Jerry

dude welcome to the board
It doesnt look like the guys been on here in over 2 years

Depending on how solid the substrate is, dying can be done, especially changing from a light color to dark. I don't recommend going from dark to light. It is very hard and usually doesn't give good even coating.

I use SEM Sure Coat system for dying leather pieces, and Color coat for vinyl. The proper cleaners and additives are needed to make it last. I set myself up with the Sure Coat system last year for about $1,000. Along with the dyes for mixing color, it ncludes the color chart and mixing tables (I lucked into a gram scale from my supplier, so saved another $600 or so).

Coloring plastic pieces can be done using Bull Dog for an adhesion promoter on very clean plastic. I coat it with Kylon Fusion or other good quality paint. The problem with the plastics is when it is brittle and flakes off.

As for the resin question, I've never heard of spraying from a gun, but it does make sense that it would spray on smooth (I don't know that it's necessarily a dumbass thing, as was mentioned). The only factor to resolve is how do you clean the gun afterwards, and how can you tell when it's starting to harden inside the gun??? Would it be possible to bag the cannister so it could be lifted out? Maybe a teflon insert or coating in the gun? There's probably special guns made for this type of thing. Or a two-part mixing system as it's being sprayed?

I like the idea of the Sure Coat system, I use SEM and Fusion alot as well.
But I usually just buy it by the can as needed.

Are there mixing charts to go by for OEM color matching??



BTW, there are several dual mix type guns for spraying resin and catalyst together.
I used to build boats when I was younger.
We used chopper guns to spray resin and roving at the same time.
It pulls the roving (long strands of fiberglass) through and chops it into pieces as it sprays resin into the mold...

It is possible to spray catalyzed resin through a paint gun, although you need a larger diameter tip and shitload of acetone to keep it clean as soon as you're done.
I wouldn't let the mix harden in the cup, lining the cup like you said is good idea.

dang good advice here Jerry from experience professionals