Some quick questions

20+ yr Auto Tinter but I've just started doing a fair amount of Flat Glass installation. I’m only doing the labor some else is selling the product (I’m not sure if they know what there selling).

I have a few questions regarding installations:

1. I use a five way tool for trimming the edges I leave a light gap about 1/8" or less they look fine no complaints. I did a job at an office and was very easy to cut leaving no gap so that’s how I trimmed it. Another tinter told me that 'I must leave a gap to allow heat to escape' sounded like BS to me. Had to trim about 8 panels with a five way .

Is there any truth to this? using N1035B (bronze) on thermal units

2. A guy sold two skylights in a woman’s bathroom. She asked for something to protect against fading of the wallpaper. Again thermal pane units. He sold her R35. Won’t this film make the skylights look like mirrors at night when the indoor lighting is on? And the sales guy says that this is the only film that can be installed on skylights safely. Would n1040 cause a failure on a skylight?

I have a few question regarding sales:

1. I need get an idea of what to sell in order to properly accommodate the customer. Can anyone give me a 'rule of thumb' to follow when a customer asks for:

Maximum Heat rejection (ex. office gets direct sunlight 6+ hrs a day, had blinds installed that didn’t work) my guess a silver film like R20 R35

Fade reduction (ex. customer had expensive red carpeting installed doesn’t want color to fade out) my guess something like n1040 or n1035b

Glare reduction (ex. Trying to see a computer screen better in daylight or a TV better) my guess the darker the better? and would a frosted film do anything for glare

And shouldn’t I be able to call someone with job specs (glass size, type, exposure film type) and find out yes or no regarding glass failure.




Thankx in advance

I daylight install most everything I do

R35 on skylight will be fairly reflective at night Need to know what kind of glass it is for futher input

Now this is a list I put together for the home show I had some helper who didnt know about film but could sell. Gave them a crach course on film and this sheet and they did as good as can be expected. This is for LLumar films

If the customer wants film for:

Heat Gain Reduction – solar energy rejected
The higher the TSER the better the performance!
R20, N1020B, R35, DR15, N1035B, R50 DR35, N1050B, N1040, N1050, N1065

Glare reduction – visible light transmission
The lower the VLT the better the performance!
DR15, R20, N1020B, R35, DR35, N1035B, N1040, R50, N1050, N1050B, N1065

Privacy – visible light transmission & reflectance
The lower the better!
R20, DR15, N1020B, R35, N1035B, DR35

Insulation - emissivity
The lower the emissivity the better performance!
DR35, DR15, N1020B, N1035B, R20, N1050B, R35, R50, N1040, N1050, N1065

Fade Reduction – UV rejection
All films reject 99% of UVA and UVB rays!!
For best results, factor in TSER the higher the better.

Aesthetics
This is customer’s choice by preference of color.

If the customer wants to keep the heat gain in the winter, show him the neutral line. These films offer a fair trade off.

Do keep in mind I didn't put all films on there as these are the ones I sell or push the most of.

Don't you have a film to glass chart laying around?

Several charts here

What is this chart you speak of?

Ive asked a 1000 times for a chart, people look at me like im retarted

Is it on this site or do I need a rep?

you can get the chart from your distributor. film to glass recomendation chart.

as far as the light gap of 1/8 that is fine as well. I use the 5 way for most everything. But when doing commercial installs with very dark film the light gap is more noticable so i do not use it and try to trim the gaskets if they are rubber.
you dont have to have a gap othen then to make sure yer film isnt touching the edge or it wont lay down.

other then that seems like you have everything handled. call yer distributor and ask them any questions you might have and search old posts here too.

Once you get the feel of it you'll be using nothing but your olfa for trimming. Trim guides do nothing but get in the way IMO.

Wow leave it to Metint to post all the answers.

I usually freehand my cuts along rubber gaskets. In old parts of Los Angeles with the clay frams I would use a wide 6" putty knife as a guide instead of a five way tool only because it is thinner.
A friend of mine uses a five way tool with great success, I think that it leaves to much of a gap though.

(All professionals)
Why would a professional need a chart?

Tell me what your perrformance requirements are, and i'll give you my professional reccomendation.

no?

New to flat glass...

D'oh!