VW Bug doors

CAN ANYBODY PLEASE HELP!!!

I WAS DOING NEW BEETLE AND COULD NOT DO THE FRONT SIDE WINDOWS. DO YOU TAKE OFF THE OUTSIDE MOLDING, HOW TO SHRINK? CAN ANYBODY GIVE ME STEP BY STEP METHOD ON HOW TO TINT THOSE SIDE WINDOWS? I DONT WANT TO MESSUP MORE FILM...

THANX

This is one of the reasons that we use TNTTEK cutting system! no cutting on car at all. all you do is clean the inside and apply!

if you can't do the front side windows, what makes you think you can do the rear! pass on the job and cut your losses short. every window on the beetle has to be shrunk.

thats not all you have to do on a beetle. don't you have to shrink every glass? if you ever tinted a beetle, all windows, with out shrinking, could you let me know! i never heard or seen a beetle done with out shrinking.

how does it get shrunk in that system?

We use Tinttek as well. You still have to shrink every window. The front windows on a beetle are a pain in the butt. You have to shrink them on the outside of the car. I hope you're dry shrinking. On the front sides put all the fingures on the bottom and make sure you move the film up so you have about a 1/4 inch gap on the bottom. That way you can shrink the film all the way to the bottom edge. Are you wet shrinking or dry shrinking?

pull the top of the panel up and back...then remove the gasket. after that you can remove the seal from all the way around the door frame.


that just cuts the pattern dude...and not accurate every single time on every window. you still have to shrink.

I wet shrink every window on that car except the back glass.

If you use gasket wizards you don't have to pull the rubbers out.

yeah...and in the process...you can f'up the nicely painted door panels at the same time..

heat the bottom fingers


slide film down...

heat top fingers..

trim to fit


done....easy as pie..

or you can take the windows out...that is how i do it..its just easier for me that way...and clean a fock

i agree with the others here
thats b.s. that u just apply
have you been tinting for 24 years or 24 hours?
next time give usefull advice,
you have to heatshrink dem bugs!!

sorry for the confusion, when I said we use Tinttek , I was trying to explain that it eliminates the chance of scratching the glass with the blade. sure I do agree that you still have to shrink it!

but when the computer crashes.......were f'ed

ive never dry shrunk a side window in my life. just work your fingers down to the bottom, and watch your gun temp.

ill put my non pulling rubber, non panel pulling, job up against any other method. you wouldnt be able to tell unless you stripped the door down

afraid of scratching glass. agreed tinting for 24 hours. a year exp. for every post. i tell ya.

gotta take out the glass to get a pro job...

whats the deal with all the egos and attitudes on this site? seems like people here are just looking for a chance to slam someone and trying to act like they are the best tinter in the world and nobody else knows shi".
I think if you compare notes and ideas with everyone else in your line of work we all might just learn somthing that may help us improve . let your egos go and act professional.

their seem to be alot of members that get their P@NTIES in a bunch when they realize their way isn't the only way. we all do things different....nuttin' wrong with that my technique changes with each car.

but i am the world's best tinter

no ego here, simply taking out the window is better, compare that to someone who does it on there you'll see the results, im not im not insulting anyone who does the roll ups on there but i think taking out windows on "SOME" cars is better.

It would be no different in any other trade/message board. Get one Carpenter to talk about his hammer, or how he frames a wall, 20 are going to blast him. It's the real world, welcome to it.

I shrink the bottom,
then position the film lower than the top edge,
and shrink the top too.

I shrink the top on a few models
including the hatefull beetles



Z

Actually, I did rear and quarters, but still struggling with those side windows, every time I try to wet or dry shrink em they crease, I wasted so much film. So, how do you shrink em, seems imposible.

I tried both, the film just creases. Seems like those fingers are to large.

Click to view attachmentAw come on guys!! Its a freekin beetle!!! They have been here for years!!! Just take yer time and shrink that fvcker!! Don't let a lil ol Beetle own you!!

november, b4 the trip to sema.....youre on. quikest, cleanest job. loser.....buys first round. im getting thirsty already.

might as well just buy right now. youre losing already..look at the post count

how many posts of use though.....

i can be a hoar.....therefor i can tint

you have broken my internet feelings

when he buys u that beer everything will be ok

shiot. this was one of the first cars i tinted. was a pain in the ass. but came out nice in 2 piece on the BG. Front roll downs had minimal contamination on the front. It was the felt that bled on to the glass.. be aware of felt, take your time. this car was very frustrating for me... but hey i done it. (4 hours worth of headaches) HAHAHAHA

I had the op to work on a bug for a day to learn and prac. cut out pattern ,put your tint on dont sgueege heres where it gets fun, squeege the bottom only up to where you cut the bottom liner about 1in from bottom working out word get all fingers out then work your way up pulling to the corners but make sure no fingers on bottom anchor then roll the window up no fingers on bottom fit finishes nicely

I do shrink on the outside and inside. But as far as removing the glass This is one car for the masking tape! If you use one good piece of tape on the front and rear gaskets, use extra soapy water, and a lil' chzler to slide behind side gaskets when squeegeing the slip in the clean process. This took me a while to learn but saved me 20 mins. on the car. thats a lot considereing it still takes me 2-2.5 hours.



Do you guys/girls remove the trim around the rear glass and vinyl/glue the matrix?

glue yes
pull the gasket I will pull the next one

I shrink the bottom of the roll up

then re-wet and slide the top edge below the top of the window
and shrink the top like you would the bottom

gets the fingers down from the outside
the inside is easy then

i take the windows out. they come out cleaner.

I've only been tinting for about 6 months now. It's probably no secret but I have been using a method that works really well for the two door windows on the new beetle. First, heat shrink the film using the baby powder method just like you would a back glass. You don't have to shrink it a lot. Now take the door panel off and pull the rubber seal from the top of the door (in the window area). Once you get the film on the glass, smooth out all fingers with your hand. Now make a "+" pattern and work out each quarter just like the rear glass. I have done several bugs using this method and have all worked out the first time.

I personally like the wet method for doing the front doors. I will put my method in order

1st lay out the film so there is an over lap at the bottom, then cut off the excess so that you have a matching curve like the bottom of the glass.

2nd raise the film up off the lower rubber seal about 1/2 an inch and squeegee a horizontal line in the middle of the window, then work the fingers that are below the squeegee line to the bottom of the glass and heat them out.

3rd wet the film so you can move it again, slide it down over the rubber seal enough so that you can tuck it in to the weather strip on the inside of the window. Then do a horizontal squeegee line like the first and this time heat out all fingers up to the top of the glass.

4th Cut the top edge of the glass and then lower the film off the top edge about 1/2 inch and finish heating out the fingers.

I found taking out the seals as mentioned in this post to be a huge help. Just use a window bone or some kind of hard card to get it started then pull it out. When putting it back in use some soap to help slide it back in to the door frame.

how much work is taking out the windows?

the door seal comes out without any problem, leaves the sides completely free to tint....just pull it! No worries about the felt.

I killed several pieces of tint years ago before I learned that the seal came out that easy......

Remove the door panels- 10 minutes work is worth it. then you can pull the gasket completely out around the top and sides- no trash- no visible edges. I'll post pics next one thru my shop.

sometimes the fingers are larger than normal indeed, just goota shrink them slowly, keep on spliting them.

Imo this is the best method. It is clean and quick, I personally don’t like removing door panels but the rubber seals are easy to remove and reinstall.

On the 4th step I wouldn't cut the film but rather mark it with a sharpie then cut off the excess on your peeler board.

Only pu55ys take out windows.

I suppose you take out the window on a Phaeton too?What BaY Area are you from?Sure ain't SF cuz I AM THE "BEST TINTER" over here.