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Anyone know any easy ways of getting the weather strips out of the cayenne/vw toureg as identical strips in both of them but the way they go into the doors are a pain
They are tight...if you remove the panel and then pull the weather strip out backwards rather than trying to lift it - this works.
Naughty
Cheers nick, don't you have some kind of tool for this? if so can you pm me details and pricing
Any tricks to getting the panels off...? I played around with one about 2 yrs ago and had no luck. I forget why but there was something I was missing.
I have been tucking but have had a lot of problems. It is a big moulding. Any info on how to take them apart is appreciated. I have been doing this for almost 15 yrs and this was the 1st panel I could not figure out. Granted it was a couple of yrs ago and it was the 1st Cayenne Turbo in town so I was a bit aprehensive! Thanks again.
i cut them close on the outside. i don't remove anything. i do the 1/2 and 1/2 method. i buckle the bottom and slide it behind the gasket. i heat it and touch it up with a hard card wraped in a paper towel.....
I now do the same as beeline. Leave the panel on, micro edge and leave it sitting just above the rub rail.
Naughty
Found it too hard to flip the top of the door trim, remove/replace the rubber and flip the trim back into the rubber channel without totally screwing up the rubber.
So, this is how we now remove the door trim on the Cayenne. Picture 1 (door1.jpg). Put a plastic lever (bone?) under the grab handle and pry it off. Less chance to break this flimsy platic trim piece this way. Picture 2 (door2.jpg). Pull the bottom of the arm-rest moulding, from the front of the door. There is a gap between the moulding and the door panel where you can get your fingers. Again, flimsy plastic, but it comes off. Picture 3 (door3.jpg). Red dots indicate where the torx screws are (no-brainer at this stage). Also a smaller torx screw at the bottom of the door trim, hidden in the carpet. Easiest way to go once all the screws are out is to flip the top of the trim, then work your way around the panel, popping the plastic retainers. Same retainers as on Audis, VWs etc. Then, you'll need to use a small hook tool to pry the rubber gasket out of the channel at the top of the door trim. It has metal in it, so it will bend. But, once it goes back in, its easy to straighten out back in the channel. Once its tinted, and the rubber is back in, hook the top of the door trim in the rubber and work down, popping the retainers in place in the door.
Hey Tintboy,
I've found these interior seals create a kind of vacuum pressure they are in so tight. Start at back edge and with a white stick lever between the interior metal and seal, your white stick should be sticking up stuck in the seal, once you get the first few inches up move your white stick along and pull another few inches of the seal up and work your way along. SOme people spray the seal with a bit of slip but I find it difficult to grip. When you get the knack they're out in a minute. Doing it this way keeps seal nice and straight and then door panel slots back into it nicely. I also have danish pr0no version of this technique, but you must have large bosoms for it to work QUOTE (Tintim @ Jul 19 2006, 10:19 AM) [*]414644[/*] Hey Tintboy, I've found these interior seals create a kind of vacuum pressure they are in so tight. Start at back edge and with a white stick lever between the interior metal and seal, your white stick should be sticking up stuck in the seal, once you get the first few inches up move your white stick along and pull another few inches of the seal up and work your way along. SOme people spray the seal with a bit of slip but I find it difficult to grip. When you get the knack they're out in a minute. Doing it this way keeps seal nice and straight and then door panel slots back into it nicely. I also have danish pr0no version of this technique, but you must have large bosoms for it to work Door panel removal works best for us, but Porsche panels are pretty tight especially the newer models w/ the new clips
Door panel R/R is a must to insure a long film life on these cars, and an ultra clean install. Good reason for additional labor charge also.
QUOTE QUOTE(Tintim @ Jul 19 2006, 10:19 AM) Hey Tintboy, I've found these interior seals create a kind of vacuum pressure they are in so tight. Start at back edge and with a white stick lever between the interior metal and seal, your white stick should be sticking up stuck in the seal, once you get the first few inches up move your white stick along and pull another few inches of the seal up and work your way along. SOme people spray the seal with a bit of slip but I find it difficult to grip. When you get the knack they're out in a minute. Doing it this way keeps seal nice and straight and then door panel slots back into it nicely. I also have danish pr0no version of this technique, but you must have large bosoms for it to work Door panel removal works best for us, but Porsche panels are pretty tight especially the newer models w/ the new clips We fit a security film to Cayennes for our Porsche dealer - which means we remove the drop windows to get complete glass coverage - believe me they are a pain to get back in and not so easy to get out. We have done lots and its like anything the more you do the easier it get - I'd never take door panel off just for tint as with anything no matter how careful you are trims will never fit back as tight as when they were new. As for clean windows again they are perfect, on brand new £88,000 cars they have to be otherwise Porsche and Porsche GB would not send them to us. Not saying this to play the big shot, its just you know this industry people take some convincing that things can be done a certain way. Talking is easy seeing with your own eyes make you believe. Its why I use the board to find easier quicker ways to do things while maintaing perfect windows. QUOTE We fit a security film to Cayennes for our Porsche dealer - which means we remove the drop windows to get complete glass coverage - believe me they are a pain to get back in and not so easy to get out. The Cayenne/Touareg are the ONLY cars we don't remove the glass to fit our security film (15mil). We too work for our local Porsche dealer, but no way we take out the glass on that ones, even though we would love to do it. Does the entire frame come off, like the Audis??
My girlfirend just bought Cayenne S. We have a lot of time to train now
QUOTE vzla-tint Posted Sep 23 2006, 04:57 AM QUOTE We fit a security film to Cayennes for our Porsche dealer - which means we remove the drop windows to get complete glass coverage - believe me they are a pain to get back in and not so easy to get out. The Cayenne/Touareg are the ONLY cars we don't remove the glass to fit our security film (15mil). We too work for our local Porsche dealer, but no way we take out the glass on that ones, even though we would love to do it. Does the entire frame come off, like the Audis?? My Friend if you are able to do them in situ I would stick to that, essential its to involved to go into. We do not take the frames off to get windows out - perhaps this is the correct method but with wiring it looks too involved. One day I will ask one of the techies at Porsche. We remove part of the exterior seal surrounding say front drop (carefully!!!) obviously once door panel is off. There is a little plastic holding triangle in this top back corner which keeps the seal in place - be careful very easy to break. Also although the seal looks rubber it has metal in it and is easily deformed. Then with door panel off you see the secondary metal interior skin. Undo as many of the Torx surrounding this including those holding the motor. You will see some rivets holding the seconday skin in place DO NOT DRILL OUT THESE RIVETS - they fall into a metal void without access and the car will have a permanent rattle. Wedge out the bottom of the secondary skin enough to get your arm in and with a small ratchet size 20torx (i think) unscrew the torx holding window in - the head of the torx faces the exterior of the door skin just to make life harder! Only takes a few turns but you cannot see what you are doing and its a pain. I never get used to it but done in this fashion they are b*mb proof. We have also fitted security in situ on these and its easier but not as strong as obviously it is not held on by the window mechanisim. We use 12 thou 350 micron which can be a bitch to fit on some curved windows - 15 must be a nightmare sometimes. Leo take your cayenne apart so we can all learn - they depriciate so quick its unreal. Hope you did not buy it brand new!
I think we better stick to our method, sounds like a nightmare
Pic: 30mil sides, 4mil front and back windshield
Hey Vzla-tint,
We done a security install on a Cayenne - and I had not see anything like it before. This one had TINTED LAMINATED windows - the tint looked $|-|17. Just to stress this was not a film it was a drop of dye in the platic laminate. We put the 12thou on it so it is one seriously b*mb proof car.
Hey Vzla-tint,
We done a security install on a Cayenne - and I had not see anything like it before. This one had TINTED LAMINATED windows - the tint looked $|-|17. Just to stress this was not a film it was a drop of dye in the platic laminate. We put the 12thou on it so it is one seriously b*mb proof car.
Hey tintim old post i know but what film is that on the cayenne
QUOTE (Diamond Tints @ Feb 6 2007, 05:34 PM) [*]475111[/*] Hey tintim old post i know but what film is that on the cayenne That Cayenne was the only car I have ever seen with tinted laminated glass from the factory (porsche). Customer had specially requested it. The tint was in the plastic sandwiched between the two panes - not retrofit. It was not a good looking tint. We supaglassed it even rear screen - which gave the windows a very deep shine from memory I think it was clear - although it may have been a light smoke. That car is seriously b*mb proof - I would love to see some little thug try and break these windows
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