newbie

First off I would like to comment on the shared wealth of knowledge this forum has to offer. I recently tinted all the windows in my home w/15% charcoal.As a paperhanger of 25 yrs. and installing some the most intricate materials...glass beaded wallcovering,wood veneer,metalics,mica,just to name a few, I knew tinting windows would be a breeze...I had to pun that.I'm currently remodeling a 1000sf computer office space.The client was contemplating some security film 8 mil.He got a quote for around 1k for 180sf of glass.He asked If I would be interested in the deal I told him I would run some #S. I told him ther'es more to it than just slapping on the film i.e. anchoring system,reason...if someone was to smash the glass,the whole plate would cave in.He said the quote he got was with NO anchor just install.The glass is held in with 2.5" X 3/4"wide oak trim matching the whole wood frame.(3/4"butts to the gass)Can this be done by removing the trim,installing the film to the frame and reinstalling the trim over the film and be sufficient? Then structual sealant on film and trim?

Thanks in advance.

you tinted all the windows in your home in charcoal 15? what type of windows are they? what type of charcoal 15?

Yes it can be done that way. The 995 or whatever you choose to use has to be applied properly. The problem is that your weak point in the whole system is now your trim.

Just cheapo single pane aluminum. Non reflec. on the tint

Yes it can be done that way. The 995 or whatever you choose to use has to be applied properly. The problem is that your weak point in the whole system is now your trim.

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Would you suggest another method like a framelock?

[quote=azmeltdown,May 11 2006, 02:18 PM]
Yes it can be done that way. The 995 or whatever you choose to use has to be applied properly. The problem is that your weak point in the whole system is now your trim.

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Would you suggest another method like a framelock?

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I don' think you could get Framlok to stick to the wood. Plus it will look pretty bad having this big ol metal channel overlapping your moulding.

Would you suggest another method like a framelock?

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I don' think you could get Framlok to stick to the wood. Plus it will look pretty bad having this big ol metal channel overlapping your moulding.

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So what are my options?
btw I appreciate the info.

[quote=azmeltdown,May 11 2006, 02:32 PM]
Would you suggest another method like a framelock?

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I don' think you could get Framlok to stick to the wood. Plus it will look pretty bad having this big ol metal channel overlapping your moulding.

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So what are my options?
btw I appreciate the info.

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Ok, pictures make all the difference...

I would pull the trim and apply the film. Let the film overlap the frame the width of the trim -1/16. Squeege the film to the glass and then place the trim on top of the overlaping film and screw it down. You may want to add some more screws to the trim and if you do, predrill the holes so you don't split the wood.

O.K. so do I still need 995? also what is a sufficient mil?

No you won't need the 995. You want 8mil minimum, preferrably 10-15mil for anti-intrusion. If you are doing this for glass mitigation then all bets are off. A pressure concussion will blow a wood frame right out no matter what attachment system you use.

Hire a professional to do it.

You will find that installing 8-15mil security film is nothing like the charcoal 15 you put on your home. This is a whole new ball game...

I'm sure it is as I am very confident as I'm use to installing $1500 per roll wallcovering in 11 mil dol homes. Trust me, it doesn't get any scarier than that.

Your confidence betrays you. Cost of material does not make one great tinter... when you install 15mil by yourself, great you will be.

Removing the stops is the best for those windows. I don't think it would hurt to run a small bead of the dow along the edge of the film just before you put the stops back on. It could get messy if you use too much.
And yea, its not the cost of the film to be worried about, its the difficulty to fit it up right. If you remove the stops, you are going to make the install a lot easier. But I'd still hire a pro to do it if I were you...

With your experience, Im sure you will pull off a Nice application. Good luck and please post image results.

Ive noticed some posts around here on the "AHH..you dont know what your getting into" ,"leave it to the pro's" Im just curious what old masters they mentored under and the years it took to achieve their Zen like application skill's LOL, ..
Come on guys ,were not Dialing in the freakin hubble telescope here, We are not Leonardo DeVinci's painting the 16th chappel. And i you feel film application took you years to master,All i can say is Simple minds require simple pleasures. Its a film which can be tricky ,But does not require a Steven Hawkins IQ to achieve. I have been applying this for about a year and half ,Nothing Ive seen in the last 9 months has had me oohing and ahhing...Personally its old hat.
I encourage and support Individuals willing to learn our trade. Individuals that are willing to work so i dont need to give them a free ride with my portion in unemployment taxes. I welcome job growth and a competetive market, I am Honest,and Secure enough in my craft, that i can Have the work i want.
Personally I find it a Craftsman flaw That frowns on a fellow worker of the trade. Must be a personal insecurity in their own skills to have them feeling they just might not win that Bid.

I know I am the new guy here and this post is not Intended to ANYONE directly. I do not want to flame nor hurt anyones pride for that matter. Just asking that those grumbling , Give a guy a break .