No Fingers After Shrinking

Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentAfter I shrink a backglass..and have the film smoothed out ...no fingers or bubbles. I trim the ugly and melted top and bottom edges.

After triming I reheat the top and bottom edges. I get little fingers popping up and I heat them back down.

Then I cut the final pattern.

This helps with the final application...no fingers popping up after the film is installed.

This saves me time...and makes for a cleaner job.

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daaaamn, easy with the heat there killer!!!

It works dude ....try it.

dont tell anyone.................

my question would be "WHY are you burning the edge of the film??" I only have an issue with burning if the car is a stratus or something like that and I don't even get that much melt.....

the film should not be melting on the edge like that.....

I re-shrink the edges after I trim it out to. I learned that from my friend Riki. I never used to do it and ended up tucking towels on small fingers. Now that I re-shrink the edge a bit I don't normally have any fingers at all.

cool.

I do it on every backglass.

Interesting

I dry shrink and on most cars can lay the film down flat with just my hand. I do not burn the edges though. There are a few cars that I go back and wet check but still can't say that I ever have burned up the edges

i have burned the edges before but not on purpose. I have always been able to trim back and everything work out. Lately the tint just seems to shrink better and lay down like i think it is s'posed to.

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I did this backglass today....dry shape.

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After I trimed the excess film and added some heat to the bottom edge i got a few fingers.

I then heated them back down and cut the final pattern.

No fingers after install.

Hope this helps.

i started doing this a few weeks ago.....he's not lying, heat the top and bottom edge after you make your final cut and you'll get a couple fingers poppin up.....they don't after the install though

It does work, I've been doing it for years now.

my ? is why don't you rough cut the film so theres no film lying on the trunk or top ot the car.

That's what i was wondering also, i trim the excess and leave an extra inch or so overlap while shrinking.

thats the way I dry shape. Somethimes I cut off the extra film on the sides.

But leaving it long on the top and bottom, I heat the film and pull on the top or bottom edge.

the film lays right down

I don't know why y'all leave it big, just cut the window TO FIT, shrink it, put it on, .......done, no fingers

I did it for effect man......for effect......

After I get done I spray a little water under the film on the bottom and top edge. Then I force up three fingers. One in the middle, one on either side along the top and bottom and heat them out.

This seems to help A LOT.

After I get done shrinking, I shrink it some more.

okay-

Its kinda like a wet check without the water. If there is a small finger that comes back up hit it with a lil heat now and not later and banging your head going why the hell wont this small finger go down. only a extra min of time. Ive been doing the sam thing.

I have been tinting for over 18 years. I have used darn near every brand and style of film out there. I have a feeling what you are seeing here is a difference in film. Most of you that are not burning edges are using a dyed or carbon style film that shrinks fast and easy without burning. You will find if you used a high end full 100% metal film that is slow shrinking and doesn't shrink as much, when it comes to a car that needs alot os shrinking, then the edges will curl or burn. It isn't a matter of being better than the other guy but maybe the other guy using a better film that is harder to work with. Just my 2 cents.

I have used sungard Endurance which is 100% metal and I didn't burn the edges on any car that I did.....I use the ATR Lulu film now and have used the sungard Slate with the same effect.....

yeah if you try to shrink the film more than it will go then you are going to tear it up....but if you took the film that far just how long is it going to last anyway??

I have burned some edges, but usually when I get adjusted to a change in film, I can eliminate that from happening, except by accident. I usually cut the pattern 1/2" bigger than the final cut to allow for 'accidents'.
I have been re-heating the edges after the final cut on nearly every car, because it does suck having to deal with small problems once it's on the inside of the glass.
I don't ever think I will change brands again. Every different film has a learning curve when it comes to shrinking and shrinkability. I have only changed brands twice in my 17 years of tinting, but I am totally sick of spending more time and energy, on a BG that was totally simple three months ago.

And you do this with bugs and eclipses and still get a one piece install.

tittisgimsgbmbmmbmbb

actually, yeah, on those I do leave it big, so if I crease it I can move it up or down, but on most, just about all, I cut to fit, shrink, slap it on, ...... done (every once and a while I'll get a small side finger, let it sit outside with the heater on for about 15 minutes, push it out)

just my thoughts but if your burning corners then your burning corners, you just need more practice and to improve your style a bit... i used to burn corners alot when i wet shrunk but sence using dryer sheets the window has to be pretty messed up for me to burn a corner. but i also computer cut my film and leeve some extra liner around the top and bottem.

exelent tip tho to save someone time if this is happening... thats what i used to do and your right no fingers after lay....

or you could just buy patterns from me precut 49.95 lmao just had to throw that in there

I was trained to rough cut shrink and burn the edges, then cut to size. Somehow I got away from burning the edges after I was done shrinking. I'll give it a try and see if I notice a difference

He's right. In fact even when it LOOKS like it's down, run yer heat gun along the top and bottom. You'd be amazed at the fingers that pop up!! Thats my final test, by running the heat gun slowly across the top and bottom. If nothing pops up, it's done.







All film melts. Metalized film melts/curls worse than dyed/carbon films. It happens to everyone.







You gotta be either full of it, or the luckiest white boy alive!!!

I was thinking it ,but wasn't going to say it but since you brought it up

whaaa man drier sheets will kill you and they suck, I use a soapy rag of ivory bar soap is cheaper safer and to me it works a lot better just my

Definitely a little too much heat shrinking. Better be careful and not melt the rubber trims around the window.

I tried to shrenk the back glass but this is all I got

same process can be used for rubber set backglasses....just gotta know how to do it.