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We just got a contract were most of the windows are arched at the top. Is going to be pain but I did quote extra because I knew it was going to be difficult. Any suggestions?
How big is the arch??
What I normally do is pre-cut the top corners... not for an exact fit, but just to make it so they don't fall down while i'm working on the film.
All between 38 and 48in. Are going to make a rough template of the common sized ones. Still tricky though
G'day Dodgey,
I pre-cut all of them. Less dirt and you won't get in as much trouble. And use a subtle hard card as an edge trimmer for the arch. Devil
check out the pics of the backrolling flatglass you will see my overlap on the arched pane.
Take and place your rectangular film piece liner side up on a drop cloth.
Measure the radius of the window and mark your film accordingly at the edge (measured radius + 1-1 1/2 inches from the film’s corner, best to use the long edge of course). Use a grease pencil tied to a string like a compass to swing an arc that matches the window curvature. Place your string/pencil compass at the starting point (measured radius + 1-1 1/2 inches from the film’s corner). Mark your arc. Cut along the pencil line with a small pair of sharp scissors and proceed to roll up the film ‘liner side in’ for a manual reverse roll lay up. Final trim after film lay up can be performed freehand or with a small hard card used as a trim guide.
Lay the film on the carpeting and fold it in half left to right starting in the top folded corner cut a half circle down to the bottom unfolded corner. It is hard for me to explain on the site I wish I could just demonstrate in person. After it is cut roll it from bottom to top and then reverse roll on to the window. I have tried it all the other ways except the grease pencil one and this is the fastest cleanest way. It will leave a little overhang just like a regular rectangualr window.
If you precut it then it is wet and real hard to roll for a reverse roll. Never tried the compass/grease pencil but the way I explained is similiar but without the pencil. This has got to be worth a tip of the week medal?
If you used commas, Maybe.
This has got to be worth a tip of the week medal? ok, read your post and see if it stands alone as is, would anyone understand what you are talking about?
Not without Periods and commas.
Thanks for the advice. Started on them today. Most of them are not alike so they are requiring a custom fit. Doesnt help that the building is 150 years old and has several layers of paint over the old wooden window frames.
I always free-hand arches, I lead my cut with the corner of my hard card to keep the film tight on the glass.
I start in the middle and sweep down to the corner, leaving a small connection in the middle so the film doesn't get hung up on my hand. When I cut that, the whole trimmed piece falls off.
Hi tinters! Noobgirl here again. I'm quoting a very nice home in the area and they have an arched window, four pieces of glass. The two side pieces are arched/triangular, the bottom middle is square and the top middle has a bit of a curve to carry over the arch from the two side pieces. I'm posting a picture of the window.
Side pieces are 64.5x35, the first 15 3/4" are straight and before the start of the arch. The lower middle is 31x31 The top middle is 31 1/2x 33 3/4 The window, were it all one pice of arched glass, measures 111 1/2 x 68. I'd love to get the boss to hire someone with more experience to come in and do the window and teach me how, but THAT's not gonna fly. Could some of you architectural glass wizzes please give me some pointers on how to do a really great tint job on this window? Thanks! Shauna
Easy. Cut a piece for the left. Take some scissors and rough cut off the dog ear. Pre-cut it, install it. Repeat for other side.
The top middle on isn't a big enough curve to even worry about. You can measure and angle and use a compass and yada yada yada if you want, but that's overthinking and wasting time. If NEED BE you can cut off your piece, tape it to the wall hanging down over the window and use a grease pencil or sharpie to draw it out and then cut it with scissors. Then precut and install. (darkdan @ Mar 7 2007, 05:47 PM) [*]486727[/*] Easy. Cut a piece for the left. Take some scissors and rough cut off the dog ear. Pre-cut it, install it. Repeat for other side. The top middle on isn't a big enough curve to even worry about. You can measure and angle and use a compass and yada yada yada if you want, but that's overthinking and wasting time. If NEED BE you can cut off your piece, tape it to the wall hanging down over the window and use a grease pencil or sharpie to draw it out and then cut it with scissors. Then precut and install. Dat's what I was kinda thinking. But, all the information I can get from you guys, I'll be forever grateful for. Thanks Shauna
Here's a tip.... something I do all the time.
If I need to cut some film after it's pulled from the box - the arch in your example - I just use my olfa. Put a bondo under the film.... then put the blade on top and slide the bondo as you cut. That way the carpet is untouched.. and you can cut on the floor without having to move the film around much. Since it doesn't have to be an exact cut, it works well, IMO. Just make sure you push the blade tip far enough into the bondo so it won't slip but not far enough to actually go thru it. -R (Devil with bad attitude @ Oct 22 2003, 05:01 AM) [*]55670[/*] G'day Dodgey, I pre-cut all of them. Less dirt and you won't get in as much trouble. And use a subtle hard card as an edge trimmer for the arch. Devil Those are small arches tho, maybe precut, do to drywall dirt.....but sometimes I dont. (cherasia @ Mar 7 2007, 04:28 PM) [*]486724[/*] Hi tinters! Noobgirl here again. I'm quoting a very nice home in the area and they have an arched window, four pieces of glass. The two side pieces are arched/triangular, the bottom middle is square and the top middle has a bit of a curve to carry over the arch from the two side pieces. I'm posting a picture of the window. Side pieces are 64.5x35, the first 15 3/4" are straight and before the start of the arch. The lower middle is 31x31 The top middle is 31 1/2x 33 3/4 The window, were it all one pice of arched glass, measures 111 1/2 x 68. I'd love to get the boss to hire someone with more experience to come in and do the window and teach me how, but THAT's not gonna fly. Could some of you architectural glass wizzes please give me some pointers on how to do a really great tint job on this window? Thanks! Shauna That install doesn't look bad. Dans got it right. Just precut your piece what ever way you choose. Then reverse roll the film. Depends I usually would usually set the right side and unroll from right to left then trimming the curved edge. Definitely have to precut the film or you'll be fighting the overhang as you trim. Actually most of the time on that kind of window I would trim both the right side and the angled side of the window. Better off having a good laydown of the film onto the glass without sliding it around to line up setting your edge. It may also be easier on that window to set the bottom and unroll it up. For curved windows like that or half rounds just using a simple credit card works perfect for an edgeguide. You probably know after you set and bump the film to the glass with a T bump. I usually bump it on the glass enough to where I know its secure. Then start at the top with your credit card and run your olfa and card down the curve, then stop where it straigtens out. I then would trim my right edge and remove the tail trim piece away , making sure you dont rip the film. Then I work the upper half of the window and push all the water out. Bump and push the water down and to the right then push finish your left side pushing into the curve. You want to immediately rebumb with hard card and a towel to eliminate fingers popping up. Those windows aren't bad but does take a certain learning curve to get used to them. We used to bust eachothers chops on how much trash we would get in some of the foyer paladiums with the curve. Practice makes perfect. Forgot to mention not using too much water on the glass. Especially the curved section. Dust the glass dont soak it around the perimeter. Good luck!
Thanks
OMG TD and OT were tearing up my punctuation.
I always dog ear 'em!
I guess since I only do flat glass I think this is cake but anyway,
if not precut then... just cut it off a film handler or whatever to a 1/4" or less, use straight edge at the bottom and hang the shiot. Precut only nessesary when you cut pieces to large and are getting drywall in it or if it's way bigger than your reach. You don't have to reverse roll such small arches and my arm span I bet you if far less than yours. (Would be like reverse rolling a roll up window on an auto..... why?) I mean ya can if ya want to hang drywall in it. Making a simple install difficult.
Click to view attachment
This is the first arch which I did last week, I roughly precut it to size, reverse roll, used a chizzler around the arch, and followed round with my olfa with the blade clicked out one stop. I had 2 identical windows to do and both came out perfect. (dodgyone @ Oct 24 2003, 04:29 AM) [*]56548[/*] Thanks for the advice. Started on them today. Most of them are not alike so they are requiring a custom fit. Doesnt help that the building is 150 years old and has several layers of paint over the old wooden window frames. Sounds like fun to me!
alright an 03 thread coming back to life
(Protint @ Mar 8 2007, 12:37 PM) [*]487022[/*] OMG TD and OT were tearing up my punctuation. (dodgyone @ Oct 24 2003, 03:29 AM) [*]56548[/*] Thanks for the advice. Started on them today. Most of them are not alike so they are requiring a custom fit. Doesnt help that the building is 150 years old and has several layers of paint over the old wooden window frames. It absolutely sux 2 b u!!! I feel your pain!!! (TintWizard @ Mar 9 2007, 02:56 AM) [*]487370[/*] I knew it!!
LOL! Yeah, using the search function can open old cans of worms sometimes, can't it?
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