still need help, 3000gt hatch, a few more questions

I've tried tinting it many times. If anyone has tinted it before could you please give me a step by step walkthrough on how your shrink the tint? I've only managed to shrink it perfectly once and I can't seem to replicate it. I've tried to work each individual finger all the way up then move on to the next finger. I've tried going back and forth horizontally. Usually what ends up happening is that I'll end up with a corner that refuses to shrink anymore. Then in my efforts of heating it i'll get it hot enough to crease the film. Then it leaves a little whitish mark and I can't get the tint to lay down flat around it. Whats the best strategy for this window? Am I missing something? Where should I start to shrink from? The middle? The corner? Some people said they preshrink it first, how exactly would you do this? Thanks for the help. Has anyone seen any online videos of a 3000gt being shrunk? - Charlie

Are you wet shrinking or dry with soap or what ?

Oddly (or maybe not), all videos I've seen are of people doing easy cars. Actually, there is one floating around of someone (Olfa?) doing an overseas car that's supposed to be quite difficult. Renault Clie or somthing. I think that was a wet shrink. Might try searching you-tube and the like. Anyway, I admire your persistance bro.

read my tips for tinting a corvette, search for the thread...Most of the tips i posted in there help with any hard to shrink backglass (including the 3000gt)

I would use the Mdizzle dry soap method . Put your soap on the glass and let it dry to a haze . Lay your film on the glass and look where the film is laying on the glass the flat-est . Take your hard card and tack it down in the center where its laying down the most . Take your free hand and in front of your hard card pull the film tight as you move your hard card to the left all the way to the left side then go back to center and do the same to the right side . Get all your fingers straight up and down on top and bottom . Then start in the center, start shrinking bottom across to left or right while laying the film down with your gloved hand and then hard card down . Then go the other way on the bottom the same way . Don't tack your sides down until you get close to them . Make sure your film is floating on the glass while your shrinking your fingers .


When you get to the top corners go slow with your gun back away from your film more and don't get the film too hot . If you think the film is getting to hot move to the other corner to let the film cool down . You might need to put some water under your film on the corners to help cool it and shrink it the rest of the way .

Look at these videos .........





http://youtube.com/results?search_query=back+glass+shrinking

I thought Kemble was slow-he spent 3 weeks on his first tint job! Seriously-you need experience before tackling that 3000. I can show you -but i can't tell you!

dont shrink each finger by itself shrink ALL the fingers at once. Kinda work from side to side center-down, then side to side center-up

I was wonderin how you were doin. Practice on an easier car friend. Its jus that simple

I wonder who will be to blame when something gets damaged Will it be the DIY guy or the tinters who are trying to explain over the internet how to use a heat gun to shrink the film

I found when I was learning its better to let a couple fingers go on the dry shirink than over shrink something. To be honest some films are much more stubborn like CS3m. Maybe try a film that has a really good shrinking reputation. But I dryer sheet shrink then I wet shrink it and on a 3000 its ok to leave a couple side fingers you can heat them down or if need be cut a small relief line. But just don't burn it. plus leave some extra film on the top and bottom when you shrink so if you do burn it you can slide the film up or down to accomidate an imperfection. There are alot of tips but you just have to keep practicing. Don't give up man keep posting questions.

have you watched any videos of shrinking online? Dont focus on the shrinking part yet, focus on how the film has been set on the glass. Its important. You see there arent really fingers more so large areas sitting ontop of the glass. You shrink the whole area and its much easier, then work to smaller fingers.

When you have a hard shrink (like that car) you have to shrink slow as in shrink an area, let it sit and move to other side of the car shrink it some, then move back to the other side. In other words when the film starts getting really hot it doesn't like to shrink anymore and will crease on you but if you shrink it a good bit and let it sit till the film cools down you'll see the film will keep shrinking without creasing. That is as long as it's not lunar film . What film is it btw? that could be a problem also.....

Lunar could be part of the problem!

where is Dr. Newyork

Dude, you are never gonna shrink that car, that is one evil back window, even for an experienced installer..... sorry.....you need to find a malibu max or something, maybe a new impala

Thanks for all the replies. Now that you guys mention it, the one time I did shrink it perfectly I did jump around a lot, and I got a phone call while tinting. That probably allowed the corners to cool more. I'll try it again tomorrow night.

I have no idea what kind of tint it is. It's some metalic 2 ply ebay film. I don't really like it because it's pretty reflective. It looks dark at night, but during the light it looks more cloudy. I'm ordering a bunch of film from a board member to continue practicing on. It's supposively black. I don't care if it's not the greatest film and it will turn purple in several years. If it does i'll just redo it. Hopefully by then i'll be a lot better at tinting.

So following peoples advice here is what I am going to try:

1. dry soap method w/ single horizontal line accross center of window
2. shrink back and forth in large areas first
3. Go back and work fingers being sure not to get too hot
4. trim tint, then do a final wet shink

1. this horizontal line is used as an anchor keep the line even and taught(?) use a hard card to firmly place it on the glass
2. side to side from the center out!
3.
4. when doing the "wet check " make that anchor line again and then the same steps #'s 2-3
Good Luck Falcon

I just did one last friday a strip and tint job on a 91 3000 GT fun fun, got the back in 1 no problems took about 3 hours no hurry just took my time dry with powder and 4% HP from advantage film I was glad 36" covered it. fresh paint job so I was very slow and careful, I love crawling in the back of those things