throw me some #'s

Okay, this potential LARGE JOB has all lowE2 windows. Now they want a bit of glare reduction and a bit of heat reduction and don't want it too dark. So My options are leaning on Huper select or maybe ceramic.

Compared to PLAIN GLASS what does LOWE2 provide as far as TSER and UV?? and if I add film to these windows what do I have to be aware of??

THANX IN ADVANCE TINT-DUDES!!

VC..................

Can you find the specs for the LowE2 glass? If it is E2 then it should already have a pretty good SHGC but the film will always reject more UV. Confirm that it is E2 and not just E too...

Thanx... I just spoke with my HUPER and MAD rep and he gave me the down Low.. Basically that LOW E is made for heat loss and adding a film like a HUPER or VISTA or what have you will give BEST OF BOTH WORLDS. LOW E for heat loss and FILM for HEAT REJECTION and UV.

Once I find out for sure it will be a lot easier. But what #'s does a LOW e2 give compared to PLAIN IGU's?? UV probably 60% right but what about Heat R??

E2 should come in anywhere from a .45 to a .30 SHGC depending on the VLT of the glass. Regular clear IGU is about .751 SHGC

So basically a LOW e2 has an approx. TSER of 55% to 60%. and a CLEAR IGU has a TSER of SH!T..... lol..

PROPS V

They're all different, some may perform a little better and some less, but basically yeah that's it.

Go with the ceramic 40 or 50% Huper. Knock down glare and just a small additional heat rejection along with the 99.9% UV deal. I wouldn't expect very much heat rejection improvement, but very often the customer will think it's cooler. .seriously.

I'd stay away from silver compositions if your anywhere close to water or have any humidity.

This guy knows his stuff.. So does Vclimber. Both very serious hard core film people. Both would make great company reps... The info you disclose on this site is too much. This is why I'm more then sure you are both very successful.. The tinter's across the globe should learn a thing or two from you two and look up to people like you on this board..

Kind words Harry but no one should look up to me, I'm just trying to be a Tintgod.

I thought he already was a rep

Quite the opposite. You'll see a dramatic increase in heat rejection. Low E, and IG units in general, were designed with heat LOSS in mind.(in colder climates). They do nothing to stop transmitted solar heat gain. You will especially see a real significant increase in performance with the film you suggested. I don't see the ceramics as a real "glare" reducer, but they kick azz on the heat.

Alot of people in southern climates (Fla specifically) get ripped off by the contractors, letting themselves get talked into the "Low E2" and IG glass. They know that low-e and IG units are "energy efficient", but few people actually realize HOW they work, and under what circumstances. Contractors must get a "rebate" from the glass companies.

As far as corrosion, almost ANY exotic metals are apt to corrode in high humidity/seaside conditions. The titanium nitrides used in alot of the "ceramic" films are especially so. V-Cool will not even warranty thier films within 100 miles of the coast unless it's "edge-sealed" with silicone. The Solar Bronze(true bronze, not dyed), and Nickel/Stainless Steel are about the most stable metals for use in coastal/ high humidities.

Been there-done that and more. .

Hey Key, just to set the record straight Titanium Nitride is "inert" in other words it is unable to go through anymore chemical reactions and thus it cannot corrode. V-kool on the other hand contains silver and you are right, it will corrode. Hopefully when the Gen 3 material hits the market it will solve the corrosion problem.

Remember way back when Bronze Films had metal migration problems? Man, those were rough times, a lot of R&R jobs.

I stand corrected!!! Yep, I remember those days. Seems that we as consumers are the R&D dept of ALOT of mfgrs. They introduce a product, and then get it right with our input.

Thanx for all the input.

So even the SOLAR LOW E2 (how they call it or rather sell it) will still really benefit from the heat reduction after film... I was thinking that if you can reject say 50% from low e2 then adding a ceramic 40 will make that window the most efficient it can possibly be with still being a window...

I was thinking either an SL SUNSCAPE series or going right to huper. I guess it depends on if they want teh glare reduction or not...

ANY ONE KNOW the ABSORPTION RATE FOR HUPER CERAMIC 40 and for the spec-select series?? Can't find it any where... If not I'll ask distributor on monday..

this is what I don't understand, you don't know anything about huper what it rejects and you don't have any samples, so my question is what makes you think you can just buy a roll of it ?

I'll fill you in. I have samples. The whole book. recently signed up with them. The samples don't seem to show the abs % tho.. maybe yours do but the ones I got, with all the literature and case studies don't. Out of the whole binder no absorption rate

The one thing I was told is I can pretty much go with anything in my area for dual pane except ceramic 30. The rest in this area for huper will be fine and covered for warranty

Did you try calling Bill or Daphne yet?

Actually, I found out the answers I needed yesterday morning (*I called when they opened). But when I seen that comment I just replied directly to the comment itself. Yes the abs #'s are high especially for DP IGU's but still usable providing you are cautious. Still no one has replied with teh #'s yet, so it obviously isn't that easy to find. Not you Vclimber, but this post has been here and no one chimed in with the answer yet.

BTW Ceramic 40 is 55% SA

Now you will see others chime in.

We've been here before, a few times...