headliners

What is a good price average for re-doing headliners?

My shop, PRO Stitch Auto Interiors and Upholstery, Inc. is located in Central Illinois. Around here, for the board-type, glue in headliners, all the prices are pretty close to the same. There are a couple that do cut-throat prices, but I also wouldn't let them within 20 yards of any of my cars. I have to laugh, one shop advertises in an area free paper, and is always about three or four dollars cheaper than me. But, we also offer a one-year guarantee on our headliners and we do a very nice job with A) the cleaning and regluing, B) actually putting it back in correctly without breaking anything.

Anything requiring a wide-width headliner is $29 extra. THere are also extra charges for all side trim, sun visors, and working with sun/moon roofs.

Regular cab pickup $129
Extended cab pickup $139
Passenger car $149
Station wagon $189
Sport Utility Vehicle $239
Mini van $259
Fullvan (reg.)/Suburban $289
Conversion Van $49/hr
Motor Home $49/ft

Now, if you're talking about a bow-type headliner (older cars), that falls under the labor/material rule. I charge a $48/hr shop rate. If the customer supplies their own headliner (and other material for other jobs) the hourly rate is $65/hr. An average bow-type headliner costs about $400 or so.

i appreciate that very much another question grand marquis i believe where the board is majorly tacked down by a thick taffy lookin stuff but its real hard about quarter inch thick stuff... gettin the board down takes somewhat a little more effort but getting it back up how do you tack it back up there after breaking the old tack? that sounds confusing but thats the best explained ha

Sewing guys prices are pretty close to mine.... Labor rate is a bit low, but the numbers look close to the same for board type and wire hung h/liners.

As for the Gr. Marquis, if I'm not mistaken, it's glued to the roof, same with the Town Cars...

2 choices there, carefully cut the board down with a sharp scraper or do it in the car...
Both are time consuming, so get your money worth.......

No real need to glue it back, but if you really want to, just stick it back with the trim glue....

I've yet to hit a Grand M. with the board glued. But I've had several Lincolns. It's just a bead of Liquid Nails. My theory is that that particular design has too narrow of doors (I have to bend the board to bring it out) to put it in later in the assembly process. So it gets stuck up in early, before the edge trim gets installed. To make it stay while it's rolling down the assembly line, they glue it. There's really no other reason for having it stuck.

My concern with using any type of tool for bringing it down (we have discussed this to the hilt in upholster.com), if you look at the outer skin of the car while you're pushing a tool up in there, it dimples and buckles and can get warped.

I use a much softer set of tools: my hands. Take the side trim off, slip your hands up on top of the board and a point where the Liquid Nails is sticking. Push the backs of your hands up against the top to hold it steady and push your fingers down on either side of the glue line. Don't panic, you are NOT going to destroy the "poor widdle board." The top skin is going to tear right along the glue line. Doesn't hurt a thing. Follow along the S pattern of the glue line and then do the replacement just like normal. Glob a couple dollops of Liquid Nails back up on it if you are afraid the board will sag once it's reinstalled.