What this Tint shop did....

hey guys, first post here. Found the forum b/c of this incident and researched about tint. Ok I have a 07 Tacoma double cab with the factory privacy glass in the rear. I took it to a local tint shop and told them to tin the front sides, NO Darker than the rear!! Also asked them to do a glare strip and keep it above the Legal AS1 Line. I go and pick it up.... Dip sticks put 15% on the front side windows and a 15% glare strip 1.5" below the AS1 line. They screwed both things up. I begin talking to them about how it's obvoiusly darker in the front than the rear, from inside & outside. He swears up and down it's a match for my factory tint. Tells me all Toyota, Dodge, Ford, chevy etc... all come with 15% rear glass. The corner of the Side Rear windows says 272; which means 27.2%. What a dip stick. he should of put 30% upfront. So they refused to fix it.... saying "I asked for it". They used some kind of LLUMAR tint. Judging by the price, it was a dyed film, but it looked good, just to dark obvoiusly. Especially being legal up front is 28% where I'm at. So have a 15%F/27%R. Great.


I'm going to peel it off and get a new shop to fix it.

Forgot to add... I'm looking at Solar Gard HP Supreme 30% for the front windows and glare strip. My other question is, I'm debating putting a 55-70% over the rear to get it down to around 20-25%. HP Supreme good for that?

I don't think a lot of shops realize some of the newer toyotas have close to a 30% factory privacy glass vs. (traditional) darker privacy options.

A 30% film should do the trick for ya

Visor strips are tricky.. if the shop does a traditional straight strip and they lay it on the windshield so the ends are at the as-1 mark the center of the windshield strips will get to be almost non-esistant on some vehicles. Most places will just automatically run it down a touch on the outside edges of the glass to keep the strip looking decent.

The alternative is to ask for a 'coutour'd strip' meaning the shop cuts the bottom edge of the visor strip to make a similar curve as the moulding at the top of the windshield. This allows for a bit wider strip evenly across the windshield and can hit the as-1 mark while still looking good.

Personally if a customer called bs on our shop like you did..... I wouldn't hesitate on changing the visor strip and lighten up the film for you.....

Sounds like findning another shop is the right decision if they refuse to work with you...

Especially if it is not legal. Did you sign anything or have proof you ask for the legal film? Sometimes customers ask for one thing – don’t like it and then say they wanted something else. We have the customer sign a sheet stating what film they want before we tint. Yesterday a guy came in and said 1 year ago we put the wrong film on and wanted it changed. I looked it up on the computer and it was over 2 years ago and he had what he picked on the car. We changed the film for him for free because of our customer service but made sure he knew we did what he wanted the first time. Ask umm nice again and try to work it out. If that don’t work I guess you are screwed!
Stan

privacy glass being 27.2%... um i dont think so.

I sure didn't think that factory privacy glass was that light. I thought it was closer to 20%

If you want to know for sure take it somewhere that has a meter. Find out what the back is and what was installed. No guess work, you will know.

Are you guessing or can you verify it like we can ??

toyotas and honda privacy glass IS a little lighter than GM Ford cars. we put 15% on the GM and Fords, and 20% on the toyotas and hondas. on the americans the fronts are a tad darker, but on the toyotas the 20% still is a little lighter. 30% would be way lighter

that verifies it for me.

get a customer that actually wants a match. put 30% on there and see what they say. that should verify for you.

Do it all the time Thanks!

Well, You'd think this shop would have a meter so they can check it. So when a customer says.... no darker than the rear, they take a meter reading and go from there. but I found a thread on this board stating that the 2005+ Toyota Tacomas, FJ cruisers are 27% on the meter. This member said he metered it and came up 27%. the window has 27 2 on the bottom corner. the front windows have 100 in the same location. That's how I came up with that logic. and yes they are VERY LIGHT!!!

the newer toyotas ARE lighter than the standard privacy glass on gms and ford, etc. Get a meter and measure it. As he said, it has 27% on it, although it actually meters a little lower around 24, so putting either a 25 or a 30% on it would match. 30% film is not that light. It may seem like it to those of you who put 5 and 20% on !llegal every day, but putting HP Supreme 30 on the fronts, even on a GM or Ford, will still match the factory glass pretty well. Not to mention the fact that 30 is a lot easier to see out of at night than 20 when turning.

not to mention the fact that if your putting 15 or 20 on cars, you are doing them !llegal since cali's law is 70%

Legal for me is 28%/15%. I kind of figured the 27 2 on the bottom corner of the window meant 27%. Hence why I asked the shop to go no darker than the rear... figured they'd put 30% on. But this experience has been educational. So I at least got something out of my $50. And from now on I'll make sure I verify type of film and have it in writing before starting work.

Forgot to ask. What should I put over the rear to get a result of 20% roughly?

You only paid $50 for two side windows and a front strip?

We have a meter and have a measurement of 24.7% VLT on Toyota Tacoma.

I would say no darker than 70%.

that's what i just got on the one here. 24% which means i'd install a 30 to match it up. and i wouldn't even bother with the back. you're basically gonna have to install a near clear film to make it 20.

those numbers aren't the darknesses. the front doors on the one here meter 76 without anything on them....... not 100.

good call. whats up bro?

I appreciate all the help guys. Really do. Yes, paid $50+tax for 2 side windows and a glare strip. The only reason I'm debating tinting the back is b/c of UV protection. Do you guys know if the factory privacy glass has UV protection? what about heat rejection?

Privacy glass has no UV, compared to film.

What, no UV!!?? Ok, I'm tinting it. That's total BS having no UV. When you're in the dark like that, your eyes dialate and allow more UV in, causing possible damage. Ok, I need to put some 60 or 70% in the rear. Solar gard doesn't make anything ligher than 43% in the HP Supreme. Ok.... Recomendations for the whole setup??? Everyone I call around here uses Solar gard. Rare to find a LLUMAR or 3M shop. Maybe I should get the Solar Gard Quantum?

Im pretty sure HP Supreme comes in 35%, not 30%. It is our top selling film

HP Supreme comes in 30 & 35. So I'd use the 30 for my front sides and glare strip. But to go over the privacy glass in the rear... which is approx 25%, want to keep it above 20%, but want the UV protection.

Only option I see from solar gard for going over the privacy glass in the rear is either A- Ultra Performance 75, Or B- Supreme 70. Or I'd have to use another brand on the rear, and/or overall.

we have a small piece of glass that is roughly 10"x3" with 3 shades on it. atr20, atr15, and atc15. we roll the back glass down and butt the small piece of glass to the rollup, and show it to the customer. they choose. the atc15 matches best with the chevys, it is barely a tad darker but from the exterior it looks perfect from all the light coming in from the windshield. on pilots, xb's, highlanders, and tacos we normally put atr20 and it is pretty close but looks lighter from the outside.

got picky customers that want a match, do what we do. so they can see it in person with their own eyes. 30 is too light, but if u guys say so keep matching rear sections with 30.

I don't understand VIP... why are you being such a bitch about this ???

You didn't bring ANY factual, useful, or helpful advice to this thread what-so-ever..... Are you just having a bad day ??

Looks like I've got the front and glare strip covered from your guy's help. Now I just need to figure out what to put over the privacy glass to try and keep it at or above 20.

^^^me being a bitch, i was giving yall a tip. if the customer would have came here there would have been no problem whatsoever seeing our swatch. they see all 3 close shades and they pick. i bet if the original poster would have seen the film they put on right next to his factory glass he wouldnt be in this situation. and wouldnt have to chalk up the $50 to experience. if you say 30 matches better, he would have said "they all look darker, you got any lighter?" and would of picked 30.

if any customer just takes your word for it and ends up not happy, its on you and youll have an unhappy customer unless you redo it no charge. me we dont get in that situation.

heres the scenario: custy walks in and wants to match the fronts to the back. ok, we walk out with the swatch and have them pick. thats it, no arguments after. they picked it



hey original poster, if the tint shop did this for you, would you have been satisfied with your job?

Have them throw some 70% film on top of the factory privacy glass and it 'should' come out somewhere between 16 and 20% total light transmittance

and even tho it's a light film you will still get the full benefits of the UV protection

Ok.... I get where your going with that whole thing now....

BITCH

When I saw you replied I thought to myself ' I can't believe I called that dude a bitch and totally got away with it '

then ...... NOPE....

Yes I would of been MUCH happier if the shop had showed me samples and let me pick!! This shop has a hearing problem... they don't like listening to well b/c they think they know best; arrogance. And yes, I lost my hard earned $50. and now have to spend a few hours of MY time scraping it off, cleaning the windows and starting over again and shelling out more money. I basically got screwed. And then when I talked to them... they swear the rear is 15% "all chevys, fords & toyotas are 15%". NOPE.


I'm looking at the Solar Gard Ultra Performance 75, or the Supreme 70 to coat the rear. For the front Either HP Quantum 28 or HP Supreme 30. Opinions on a combination?

Did you shop around for the price and take the best one?

Nope. This shop is close, and always packed full of cars. They did my previous truck and it was 110%. But obvoiusly something changed. When it comes down to it, I'm willing to pay extra $ to have a shop explain things, offer samples, meter reading, listen and hire professionals, not high school kids.

llumar makes a new tint called AIR BLUE.It is 77% VLT with 43% heat rejection.It will cost you alot.

sounds like it's to compete with the solar gard Ultra Performance 76%.

Compete with performance,yes.Quality of product with a manufacturer that stands behind it,NO.

I found a local dealer of Formula One & LLUMAR. What do you guys know about Formula one?

I put my 20% film on any vehicles to match factory glass.....just did an FJ Cruiser last week and the 20% was as close as any other vehicle that I have done....

Sorry that you feel that you got cheated. I hope you get it worked out.

YEA YOU SHOULD HAVE A DEALER PUT QUANTUM 28 ON THE FRONTS ITLL BE WORTH YOUR WHILE

UrbanHillBilly,

If I were you, I would not stand for what they've done.
Go back to the shop, remind them that you did your last vehicle with them, tell them that if they make this right you'll do your next one too, and make them fix it. If they won't replace the film with the right one, then have them remove it and refund your money.

For what it's worth, 50 dollars is way cheap. I charge twice that for the same thing. Still, if it were my 50 dollars I'd leave the film on and tint the back windows a little darker to make it all the same. Wouldn't that make more sense than removing what's on there? Of course that only applies if they did a good installation.

I've noticed on Toyotas, maybe not all, but some at least, because I tinted a Corolla tuesday that the corner of the glass says "UV" right on it. If it says that, then you have at least some UV protection even without film. It may not be as much UV protection as film, though. Window film also gives you a safety net if the glass gets broken so it's a good idea for safety reasons too.

Quantum is to reflective to match!

I would stick with the solar gard films, but that is also coming from a solar gard dealer. I love their film, and use the Supreme and HP Supreme almost exclusively, except for the cheaper customers, the I just use NR Smoke, which still has a 5 year warranty.

DO NOT do Quantum 28 on the fronts. Depending on the lighting, you won't even tell the film is there, not to mention the fact that the darker you go with Quantum, it gets highly reflective. Just put Supreme 70 on the rears. It still has a lifetime color stable warranty, and all the UV protection your looking for. Do that on the rears, and either HP Supreme 22 on the fronts, or Supreme 28. Personally, I think the Supreme 28 would be a better match, since it meters 23% by itself, and around 19-20 on the glass. Doing that will give you the best match out of the available films, while still affording you the lifetime warranty.

In case the shop tries to screw you again, and only offer a 5 year warranty on the Supreme film, do not take it. Both the Supreme and HP Supreme have a LIFETIME fading/bubbling/purpling warranty, and they even share the same warranty card. I believe Quantum and HP Charoal are also on the card, because those are their 4 main lifetime films. A lot of shops in my area are saying Supreme is only a 5 year film, to get you to upgrade to the HP Supreme. Either film will work good, and provide the same result. Yes, the HP does have a little higher heat rejection, but it also sacrifices a little of the blackness because of the metals.

Bottom line, go with the supreme film, 70 on the back, and 28 or 22 on the front.

bottom line dont use solargard it will delaminate

cool man no bad blood.