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~Can anything be done to remove tunneling from SS film so the film can be used?
short answer probably not IMHO, if I precut (which I usually don't) I roll em up liner side out to prevent tunneling some here roll them back onto the core. I just prefer to roll them inside out
short answer probably not IMHO, if I precut (which I usually don't) I roll em up liner side out to prevent tunneling some here roll them back onto the core. I just prefer to roll them inside out
[/quote] Rolling liner side out the film delaminates. Is it better to roll the film as tight as possible liner on the inside to avoid tunnels? QUOTE Rolling liner side out the film delaminates. Is it better to roll the film as tight as possible liner on the inside to avoid tunnels? I disagree The tighter you roll the film the quicker the 'tunneling' effect appears I do not roll up SS films (if possible) or roll them up about 3" around similar to the core (6" on 8mil+)
don't know what to tell you then Jack, rolling liner side out has not been an issue for me and has prevented tunnelling for the most part. I concur with johnnytint that rolling them up on the original core or at least the same approx. diameter should work for short periods too. I just find it easier to cut to size on site and eliminate all that BS. The less time it spends rolled up off the core the less likely tunneling will be an issue
Thanks for the feedback.
i found that when i just leave it in a natural state on the roll how it comes or just letting the film roll it's self. the film naturaly will roll up and thats how i leave it...lol...it doesnt make good for space since its diameter is 8-10" (large roll) i have stored it for 6 months like this with out it seperating the clear or tunneling
Install the film and spray the "line" with some xtra water.
It will definately dissapear. QUOTE (GLASSPROTECT @ Apr 20 2009, 04:31 PM) [*]681398[/*] Install the film and spray the "line" with some xtra water. It will definately dissapear. with out any distortion? that would be called chris angle technique?
i roll it w/ the liner on the outside but never leave it for more than a few days because it tends to curl on install. haven't had any luck getting tunnels to go away.
If you are going to pre cut s&s film you can do a few things to prevent this. The cause of most tunneling is because of the cut you made to pre cut the film. Or a poor factory edge This will apply to cutting by a machine –cutting on a table-cutting out of a box. As you cut the film it will get an ice ridge from the blade seprateting the film as it cuts. You will notice this if you look at the liner side on the edge of the cut. This will be more apparent the thicker the film is. You will see it is lifted of the adhesive .with that being said you can pinch your finger tips on the edge and slide down to push the liner back on the film. If you roll the liner side in .smaller than the core it came on this will change the inside diameter of the film to the liner and the liner will become longer than the film but it can’t move on the adhesive so it will lift of and form a tunale.as you will notice if you roll the liner side out and smaller then it came you will see the reveres affects of this it will shrink and expose the adhesive and it will leave a glue line inside on the film were the end will touch it.i will give one tip on precutting the film for use later or for storeage.cut the largest piece first roll with liner side in. To the diameter of the largest box you have to store it in. Larger the better. Place a few pieces of tape to hold it from unrolling. As you cut the others roll them slightly smaller and put a piece of tape on the corner on the liner side and mark the size on it so you can indemnify it at a later time and then place it inside the first piece and let it unwind to that size. You can use the tape for the removal of the liner before install. This is one of the ways to do this. Hope this will help.
QUOTE (GLASSPROTECT @ Apr 20 2009, 10:31 PM) [*]681398[/*] Install the film and spray the "line" with some xtra water. It will definately dissapear. I have had some success with this method, not always but some.
the best way I have found is if you let the film expand and dont tight roll it and stand it up instead of laying it down. Let the film expand to the size of a 10 inch woofer or where ever it stops. I have tried spraying the lines with minimal success.
depending on the size of the job i do it 2 different ways. 1, small job, 500 sf ill cut it on the job. 2, big job 1000's of sf ill pre cut at my shop. i use a painters tarp, the 4x12 or 5x12 depends on the width of the cuts, lay it out on the floor. do all the cuts from 1 or 2 rolls depending on how big they are. after there all piled up on top of each other start rolling them up in a big 10" or so wide roll. then finish the ends so its like a giant borrito. like mentioned before in this thread the larger the roll the less likely you will have worms. (thats what johnsons calles them)
if the sizes are small enough, and your vehicle is big enough, stack the cut pieces
what is tunneling? the lines across the film from being rolled or something else?
thats it,, the separation of liner from film, leaving tracks in the adhesive
QUOTE (dryshrinker @ Apr 22 2009, 05:55 PM) [*]681980[/*] depending on the size of the job i do it 2 different ways. 1, small job, 500 sf ill cut it on the job. 2, big job 1000's of sf ill pre cut at my shop. i use a painters tarp, the 4x12 or 5x12 depends on the width of the cuts, lay it out on the floor. do all the cuts from 1 or 2 rolls depending on how big they are. after there all piled up on top of each other start rolling them up in a big 10" or so wide roll. then finish the ends so its like a giant borrito. like mentioned before in this thread the larger the roll the less likely you will have worms. (thats what johnsons calles them) copy Kat!
... and some people call it.... "fingering".....
QUOTE (Jeff Rutherford Jax fl. @ Apr 24 2009, 10:52 AM) [*]682215[/*] QUOTE (dryshrinker @ Apr 22 2009, 05:55 PM) [*]681980[/*] depending on the size of the job i do it 2 different ways. 1, small job, 500 sf ill cut it on the job. 2, big job 1000's of sf ill pre cut at my shop. i use a painters tarp, the 4x12 or 5x12 depends on the width of the cuts, lay it out on the floor. do all the cuts from 1 or 2 rolls depending on how big they are. after there all piled up on top of each other start rolling them up in a big 10" or so wide roll. then finish the ends so its like a giant borrito. like mentioned before in this thread the larger the roll the less likely you will have worms. (thats what johnsons calles them) copy Kat! lol, check the born on date's again... you were 4 when i started slicin' and dicin' QUOTE (dryshrinker @ Apr 27 2009, 05:46 PM) [*]682753[/*] QUOTE (Jeff Rutherford Jax fl. @ Apr 24 2009, 10:52 AM) [*]682215[/*] QUOTE (dryshrinker @ Apr 22 2009, 05:55 PM) [*]681980[/*] depending on the size of the job i do it 2 different ways. 1, small job, 500 sf ill cut it on the job. 2, big job 1000's of sf ill pre cut at my shop. i use a painters tarp, the 4x12 or 5x12 depends on the width of the cuts, lay it out on the floor. do all the cuts from 1 or 2 rolls depending on how big they are. after there all piled up on top of each other start rolling them up in a big 10" or so wide roll. then finish the ends so its like a giant borrito. like mentioned before in this thread the larger the roll the less likely you will have worms. (thats what johnsons calles them) copy Kat! lol, check the born on date's again... you were 4 when i started slicin' and dicin' he said "born on dates ", makes me want a beer !!!
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