new max pro distributor

Max Pro Pacific has arrived in the west coast. Pat Burke (myself) and Zach Burke(my son) are now distributing on the westcoast. Based in N Hollywood (base of Operations for wharehouse). Nothing to fancy, trying to keep the pricing down by controlling expenses to do business.
Max Pro is a filmed that has been designed for todays needs, with over 200 years of experience goin into the design and application of these films. These numbers represent the different people involved in this new project.
My pops Bill Burke is the president of the company. He is driven and understands the needs of product attributes. The cool thing is we got all the good charateristics of some great films rolled into one. The original launch was three years ago and was primarily all auto, hp line, cp series, since then flat glass is being added but slowly, to be sure to only have quality films.
Im excited for Max Pro because they in my opinion have done some really unique things considering the pricing cost to build a quality auto film in this day & age.
1. Generation Three dyes only, allows to give a no fade warranty on HP line as well as non metalized CP series.
2. Using only the clearest of base substrates to laminate to hence creating a clear as heck film even at a angle.
3. Creating a off the hook shrinkability which arrived from various techniques from liner to manufacturing process (some sneeky tricks).
4. Not getting greedy for a quality product, I think they could raise there price and justify it due to its componets IE Generation three dyes.
5. Fair pricing, no more legacy pricing.
6. All American window film, every componet is made here in the US.

I have been involved in several ventures hanita and global and its nice to build here to overcome shipping logistics.
We currently have seven distributors around the country, some of them have been with or are in my opinion the best dudes in the buisness, knowledgable and product savy people. T
I just wanted to shout out so everyone or at least anyone wondering whats up with maxpro could get a feel for what we are trying to do. We just got tired of dealing with some of the manufacturers stuff so Bill Burke said lets get it done and here maxpro is.
Thanx for checking it out, e mail me if you have any questions, Maxpro 1 877 573 3456 get your distributors #
Have a great one go make some cash baby, peace patrick Burke

So, who is going to be the first Oldtimer form Tintdude to get to tour this FACTORY that you say you have or did you not say you have a factory??

Where is it located?

We currently utilize three manufacturers to build film and all the packaging and process is done in virginia

Three manny's for the same film lines? So whatever you have is dependent on other film manny's no matter what.

What do you mean, three manny's for the same films? Bro how long you been hangin film? Do you realize how many films we manufacture for all the A. demographic markets as well as for the domestic business? Think outside of the box.... we sell more film than you forgot about ok? I mean for real, study the universal market and realize there is room for all of us, that is why i went to bring global from india, and hanita from isreal, dude please, its a big world, we are not the only ones using film and addapting to its uses, just addapt to the most profitable film for you< in az we call it MMA, MOney Making Activities, Not trieng to be harsh or even a Jerk, JUst please get it, there is room for all of us, be worthy...

Your attitude and the way you are carrying yourself on here since joining would keep me from ever buying one sq foot of your film

Bingo!

the way they answer the questions on here they sound like some common street thug put into a office position not what im use to after dealing with howard form express or jack from sagar or big john from solargard very unprofessional in my opinion but i will try the film

i'll go ahead and say it since no one else has.......you come off as a jackass. plus you need to go back to grammar school. focknut. hope that film's better than the people trying to sell it.

I was trying to hold back
I was not impressed at all with the first batch of samples I got quite awhile back. The films would not stay on my peel boards and had severe curling issues. I beleive there is an old thread around here somewhere on maxpro.
Thanks Blade for saying what I wanted

http://www.tintdude.com/forum/index.php?sh...t=0&start=0

oh...come on dude...tell us how you really feel about the guy..

you don't want me to.....my daughter could have done better at making a first post than him. and people would buy from her.

i personally think something is fish with these guys...it just doesn't sound right from what i see in their posts the last couple of days.

Wow, judging from everyones reaction, this dude is not off to a very good start.

its all good, i was simply trying to let whom ever get a heads up on maxpro, somtimes i do come off as a dh, not even trying, i dont expect that any one to buy it, thats your choice, I was trying to educate, not sell, all film will have its problems, i seen some curl come & go, especially in the dark films, wound to tight, hey put it out there its all good,

There are only but several manufacturers in the US... what are the name of your manufacturers (the three that you briefly described previously)? From my understanding, there is only Baekart (solargard & panorama), CP Films (Formula One & llumar), Commonwealth (Suntek), JWF, and a few others... I'm sure a well respected film company as yourself would be more than happy to disclose that much.

and fyi... a film could be manufactured outside the US and brought into the US via master rolls (60" x 2000', 3000' etc.. ) and cut into standard film sizes and still have the legal right to be called "made in usa". i hope thats not the case for maxpro.

I thought for a second that this guy would go unscathed by us. Glad I was wrong!!

I'm glad I don't live out West, I wouldn't buy from him. Jack takes care of me though, so I will keep trying it when I get back

I've purchased the stuff from a local distributor in KC. I don't have any bad things to say about the product...but I'm not the pro yall are yet.

Don't worry about me and your film...I just figured that you might want to dispute that a film that is made at THREE different factory's is going to be at the mercy of those factory's and that you really have NO control over the products.... sure you can tell them that you want it this way or that, but in the end you are at their mercy!!!

Go back to school and learn the english language better before you come on here and try to tell us just what is going on.

film shrinks good... but something about the color didn't set w/ me. hate the logo. need to do something with that.

Your attitude and the way you are carrying yourself on here since joining would keep me from ever buying one sq foot of your film
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AH, so YOU brought Global ans Hanita here.......Ya sound like 'Brad Wesley' from the movie Roadhouse......."the damn WalMart is coming here because of ME!!" I would think that these brands might differ in their opinions. Doesnt Hanita sell their own films here??? or are they a subsidiary of you??? I will have to ask Lloyd Brown the next time I talk to him about htis. Pull your head out of your arse, grasshopper. As a businessman hoping to deal with us, you may wish to go back to school (not the school of Thug-onomics) and master your control of the English language. Your posts sound more like a fool trying to be street. That does not fly in this world. Of the reps out there, most can communicate well. My recommendation to you, as many other reps have heeded, would be to not post much here if you are going to be so combative and so much of a braggard. By what I have read, YOU manufacture films for everyone and hae sold more than WE have forgotten. It doesnt take long for the truth to come out here (we have some of the best sleuths) and when it does.....Watch out.

Best of luck in your next business venture!!!

harsh world we live in. saleman are supposed to kiss ass, not kick ass.

haha

No doubt you have a great point, maxpro has a recipe for auto films. There is and has been what they call toll coaters, theyll take your raw product and adhesive formula and make you film the way you spec it, line speed, oven tempature, etc. Lots of the larger film companys have used these resources through the years for over flow situations, common practice.
There are some new toll coaters who have previously worked for the big three, they got fed up and started there own. That is our guy, they have tons of production know how, experience manufacturing all types of films. The auto lines are all maxpros , ground up, these films obviuosly were the compilation of what we feel the auto markets true needs and functions. The flat glass films have a mixture of own and private label, we dont have the capacity to make all of our films yet, big surprise right, yea right. If you are going to have it made out of the country, fyi you would have them made in 10,000 ft rolls and 2000 - 3000 for security films, youre on the ball. That is not the case, no out of the country films for this crew, been there done that, to hard to deal with foreign companys, language barriers as well as they still dont really get the importance of quality product, up and down is all most always the case with quality, consistency is tuff to get. My opinion at best of course.

Just to clarify I'm not the manufacturer. I wish I was I would love to have that bank book. Just a joe smoe tryin to do his thing. I have a flat glass company hangin film in az, Ive tinted cars for 20 yrs, I think car tint is assome because it has fed the family for years and years. I'm involved with max pro because I felt we have good opportunity to sell a decent film at a fair price. My pops is he presiden of Max Pro films, I'm a disributor for there film in LA simple and easy. I can disclose much more do to the fact I would be offed, lol. Max Pro is a squirl try to get a nut, there great people who all want the same, good film.

One last thing, sorry if I ruffled any feathers the other day, I speak openly yet somtimes seems offensive, these tintdudes as well as I have seen manufacturers come and go, thats all I was trying to say, I probably shouldnt of had that last beer, woops

I didnt realize my grammar was going to be a topic, I'll work on it. I was involved with these other companys, as well as solargard, I worked with Jack sagar when he came to az years ago, super cool guy, one of the founders of max pro. I was a technical director for these other films, and yes I'm a idiot, Bill Burke did all the hard work getting everthing thing else done to bring them to the usa. I'm going to crawl in my hole now, thanx for your time and honesty,

fellow tint dudes and dudette,
pats a good guy he just comes off harsh, because he's more amp than most of us.
i've known him since the early nineties. he doesn't know who i am here and lost contact with him since then.
he's been tinting for a long time and has a wealth of knowledge from manu., dist., and installing. we can all benefit.

pat, the guys here are awesome and you make a good addition here. chill.
i know someone pushed your bottoms, but i would too, for a reation from you, it was alway kinda funny.

tell bill to mend things with larry, they've been in the industry since the mid 70's and should be good friends once again.

Some one from Max Pro stopped by my shop last week while I was out and left a price list. His daughter had the same name as my wife and I was told he seemed like a good guy. No sample roll but with the prices he left i can't afford the stuff! To switch to a new or unproven product I am going to have to save at least ---.xx bucks a roll not pay more than i pay for Global
cheers dudes

I passed on the info on pops, let see what happens, have a good one mystery man.

So I'd like to hear exactly what it is that makes his film so good... let's put some of that know-how up on the board here rather than the ebonics.

and

Ebonics

I agree. Poating of all this knowledge and film expertise, lets see some of it. To just trust the film are so great by stating "I have all this experience" is not where I come from.

Hey guys, I'm not sure I could really do much to prove my knowledge to any of you and that's not where Im trying to come from. I'll give you a quick look at the hp and cp line of auto films. The base polyester is uv stabilized, not all film company's are doing this to save money, then the poleyster is dye bathed with generation three dyes, to date, from all testing, these are proven to be the longest lasting dyes at this time. Soultia or better known as llumar is the company we buy these from. Soultia is the industrial division, they as you know sell their products to pretty much everyone who is willing to pay their prices. The polyester then goes to our laminator (toll coater), when they laminate the different films dependind on VLT, metalized (hp) or non metalized, the coat weight of lamination adhesive as well as the coat weight for the pressure sensitive coating was established for clarity and tack depending on what you want the film to be,clear, aggressive, not as aggressive. The term for this is called pounds per ream, the graveer roller aplicates this on to the film and cured in the ovens, the actual ps adhesive is measured by a solvency measurement, you use a small measuring device, holds anywhere from 2-6 ounces depending on type used, and has a small hole in bottom. You dip the measuring cup device in the adhesive vat and time the solvency from full to empty with a stop watch. Now you know what to do, to thicken the adhesive you add more adhesive, 80 % of the big boys use 1089-A monsanto, most popular. To thin you add EEA or MEK. I cant recall what the full name of EEA, exylene either ? Methyl eythl ketone is most commonly used to thin ps adhesives. Coincidentally mek is probably due for a large part of auto films failing and getting distortion and lamination slip if you dont burn out the excess MEK in the ovens. You really want to hear the rest? Simply pick your VLT, 50 & 35, 20& 20 to establish what your end result, how dark. Laminate the sustrates together traditionally 10,000 ft. You will use different graveer rollers for lamination adhesive (mount different vlt's together).
So you would make all laminations for different VLT's at this time. Here comes the real fun, cleaning the laminator, change over graveer and make ps adhesive while you have your crew clean the ovens, it gets messy up there and surprisingly if you miss adhesive on the oven rollers it can cause curl and or strech the polyester. Once you ready to go, you adjust the pounds per ream by pressure on the combining roller which pushes down on the graveer, set the temperature in the oven which can really vary depending on the line speed of the laminator. In the old days the good films would not run over 100-125 feet per minute. Now the big laminators can run between 125 to 225 to 250-300, some have run faster due to getting the product out there in a back order situation. The traditional Faustel laminator in the old days where 75 ft long so high line speeds was pretty much a death sentence for the film, the chemicals were not getting burned off, so little fish eyes or just good olds bubbles would show up, this was called doping, the unburned eea, mek would shows its ugly face by outgassing after a period of time because these chemicals actually fought each other, in turn the polyester would catch the gas and act like a mini ballon. The new big bad laminators can be 300- 400 ft long, they have a much better chance of burning out the undesirables due to massive oven lenghts. So to finish this, max pro has its set line speed which is a little slower and we set the oven temperature to allow more shrinkability, if you run higher oven temps through the years we have found you literally shrink the film in the oven. Thats all good except the market desires better shrinking film, and this is only one way to achieve that but has become probably the best way. There can be a fine line thats why you need a experienced lamination team. After you pass thru the ovens off to the combining roll which is a huge drum roll with hot water running thru it to achieve tempature of lamination. This depending on the liner and how much silicone is impregnated in to it, ie car films, you can control how the release of liner will be, easy , okay etc. After passing thru the combining roll you hit the viewing station where the laminator operators are supposed to wathing for debri and flagging it with small pieces of red tape so after it comes off the laminator and hits the slitting station to get cut up to desired widths, they rewind operators will have a heads up especially if you had a situation where you had to lift up the presurre roll on the graveer or you were making adhesive adjustments, or the scary one , emergency stops, the whole machine almost always has to be cleaned and started over. I told you I would put you to sleep...

Now that is a much better way to speak... you may even sell some film around here.

EEA= ethylene ethyl acrylate... it's a polymer and so is MEK

they use third generation dyes on glue-type film (coloring is embedded in the adhesive)... AWESOME FILM!!... not

The color in the adhesive is a sungard way of making film, we all knows what happens to that film, I assure you that is not the case, this is the latest technology in dyed film. LLumar has generation three film with this dye technology. Madico, Solargard, Hanita, Johnson etc, traditionally use the standard dyes in most of their films. Some generation three could in fact be out there, I dont want to rule out that possibility. In a perfect world we would use the pellet technology where you crush pigment pellets and mix it into the polyester (in the kettle) as it is extruded, Gaware polyester in India used to do this and that film really didnt see any fade. Unfortunately, they quit doing due to expense, that was about the time global was created. I would like to explain more about the dye bath and temperatures but I am getting to close to getting myself in trouble with pattons laws and infringment bs. I tell you a quick way to find out, get some mek from local hardware store and soak a rag, (use gloves) take off ps glue, if the color comes with the glue, youve found your colored adhesive. If not is the real article.

I think the Asian MFG's call it "glue dye"... they use that technique in many of their films, and guess what, some of those films land state-side and are sold in this market as premium films.

Chip dye may be more stable but it has its negatives too. Do a color comparison to deep dye, the deep always seems to look better -imo just keep it out of the sunlight.

Gents,



Let me jump in here to straighten a few points out. For the most part there are three ways to get the color into the film:



#1 Clear Poly – Bath Dyed

#2 Color Pigmented Chips – Extruded as tinted film

#3 Color in the adhesive(s)



There are one or two others (involving color in the SR) but that is beyond the scope of this discussion.



I sell all 3 types. It’s my business to know the strengths & weaknesses of each one as well as the best sources for each type of construction.



The best (and most expensive) are the Clear-Poly bath dyed films. Notably, Llumar & Global stand out as the most color stable products we have ever tested. Remarkably, after 6,000 in our QUV they look almost as good as the unweathered control specimens.



This is not to say that other brands are not very good. We test all the major brands and for the most part, we believe they are selling quality window film.



Still, for some reason (known only to CP/Llumar & Global) their own branded films come out as the clear winners on every single test we run. It stands to reason that they would use their very best materials and processes for their own branded products and sell the next best technology to their clients. If you don’t want to settle for second best (and are willing to pay for it) these two films are the leaders. Note: Global’s pricing is considerably lower.



Films made with color pigmented chips (extruded as tinted polyester film) are the “runner-up”. While not quite as stable as the bath dyed products, they still do very well in our testing. The changes that do occur are very subtle and by no means unsightly. Very few retail customers would ever notice the difference over time. Color extruded films are also very good shrinkers.



“Glue-Type” films may contain the color in either the mounting adhesive or the laminating adhesive. If the color is in the laminating adhesive, the test described above by Mr. Burke will prove misleading. You will not be able to wipe the color off the film with the solvent. That trick only works if the color is in the mounting adhesive.



The obvious benefit of glue-type films is the price. Color stability is remarkably good (for the price). The films hold their color well, but tend to gain VLT over time; more so than the other two types. Plenty of professional shops offer the “glue-type” films as an economical option.



We have also been observing a steady “closing of the performance gap” with these glue-type films. While they will never catch up to Llumar & Global, they make good economic sense to a growing base of customers who want to offer their retail clients additional choices.



Caution: Glue-type represents the one category where you have to be really careful. Some of the glue-type films we tested are a disaster. If you hook up with the wrong supplier, you’ll regret it.



My primary job is to identify the “best of breed” in each category. That’s what makes our company unique. Whatever you are in the market for, I will find you the best one available in that category.





Regards,



Howard Paritsky

Express Films

this round is on me howard bravo

Sounds like you might have finished your reading assignment... so what do you think?

VC,

I was making reference to Steve P's patent on color in the SR. Further study is needed on our end before any conclusions are reached. It does seem that anything incorporated within the SR is vulnerable to being "scratched off" the surface, but I don't want to jump to any conclusions. Steve is a brilliant man (and a fellow aviator).

What's your take on it?

-Howard

I know why the dye is placed in the SR coat but I believe that it is a bad idea. Everything I have seen spells disaster...

2 EWF.

Really nice and really interesting

But - I think there are sime more methods which You don't know.

I also don't know as it is still secret - but, they are, and they are different from all methods You menthioned.