Compustar Alarm

I'm new to the window tinting biz, and have a few alarm installs under my belt. I have a problem with a current install. A little background: i'm self taught and not a licensed dealer. This is the first time I've had this kind of prob. Basically, after installing the alarm (pre-solder stage - everything is secured with electrical tape). To start the programing, you have to turn the ignition on then off 5 times. This results in the parking lights flashing twice and the relays making some clicking noise. This is what's supposed to happen. The problem is nothing happens after this. The transmitters (1 2-way pager, and 1 1-way) don't seem to communicate with the brain. I've replaced the batteries in both transmitters, removed the brain and reinstalled it includding rewiring and checked all connections, but everything seems pretty right on, and still same results. I've considered looking into purchasing an install manual to help me, but the one's I've looked at are not helpful. I've also considered taking a course on the subject at the local community college. If you guys have any input, I would truly appreciate it. Thanks

i don't know much about compustar alarms, but check all the basic stuff, make sure there's power on the correct wires, no blown fuses, good ground, etc. :booga

turning the key on/off five times just gets you into transmitter programming. There are extra steps needed to get to alarm programming. What model are you using?

Wow, thanks for the quick responses guys. Sorry for not including it, but the model is 2WSS-AS (alarm/remote starter)


This was performed during the 1st re-install. There were no blown fuses, but the ground wasn't as secure as it could have been so it was tightened. Also, there was a little confusion about the connection for the starter, as the wiring diagram did not specify where exactly to connect the wires. That is, when I spliced into the starter wire I ended up with two wires (one comes from the ignition and one goes to starter - clear?), and there are two wires that come off the brain for this connection, but it is not clear which goes where. So, they were reversed on the second install (just to see)


I'm very interested in learning what these extra steps are Wndotint. After the above steps (turning ignition on/off flashing lights/clicking noises etc), I tried using the tranmitter but got absolutely no response. That is, when I pushed the buttons on the transmitter nothing happened.

If I was considering doing this as a career, would you guys recommend formal training or would an apprenticeship be better? I've considered working at Circuit City to get some experience, but I'm just not sure at this point.

Thank you guys again for your help, can't tell you how much I appreciate it. This install really schooled me on my limitations as an installer...has me considering a different career. sheesh!

Frank

I learned at the School of Hard Knocks. In over 15 years, I've never taken a test, nor am I MECP certified, but I can do just about anything that runs on 12 volts. From basic keyless entries to full blown alarms that control everything motorized in the car, I've done it all, with very little help from anyone other than a tech support guy on the phone. You can download an install manual at www.compustar.org. Let me know what else I can do for you.

That's good to know. Suppose I'll just keep trying.

Thanks for the link to those manuals, but I already have them. Like I said, after the 'Remote-Pager Learn Routine' (cycling the ignition on/off 5 times within 10seconds) nothing happens. The exact routine is to remove the battery from the remote pager then cycle the ignition then replace the battery. At this point, the lights should flash once, but if I remember correctly, the lights flashed twice. Antother thing I noticed is that the remote pager did not have any icons on it except the battery power and a little antena looking thing at the bottom when you pushed a button. The brain acts like it's dead, but the LED will flash etc when I enter the programming mode, just nothing after that. I'm almost sure it's operator error as this is the most complicated alarm I've tried to install.

I think this might be a little confusing. I was refering to a general 'alarm install' manual - something you might see say to study for certification, and not the install manual that comes with individual alarms. Sorry about that, sometimes it's hard to tell how things are going to come across using this medium. I am trying to learn how to do this the right way, I just haven't been exposed to people who know what they're doing till now. I have ALOT to learn. Thanks

regardless of remote battery situation, key on-off 5X SHOULD make the park lights flash once. If they don't there's a problem with the brain. Is this alarm brand new?

i re-read my post, and i apologize, I wasn't as clear as i could have been. When the ignition is cycled on/off 5 times, you are entering 'Remote-Pager Learning' mode. To answer your question, yes the parking lights flash, but if I remember correctly (the car is no longer in the shop) I think the parking lights flashed twice. The guide doesn't really state whether flashing lights is normal or not at this point. I'll have to double check some notes I took, but I'm almost certain they blinked twice.

From all appearances, the unit was brand new. It was purchased on Ebay, but it came in all the correct boxes and wrappings including wire ties around the wires. None of the wires were stripped, and the stickies on the antena still had their protective covering, and all decals were intact. It was new from what i could tell.

I spent about 3 days working on this unit 1 month ago. The car is no longer in the shop, and i refunded the full payment of the install, and told the guy I would install it for free when I figure it out. I figure I'll do right by the guy, and learn a little something along the way. He's a pretty good friend, and has faith in my ability to do this install. He's going to have time to let me give it another try in about 5 weeks. I have till then to figure it out.

I could walk you through some of the programming over the phone when you get the car back. Did you say what kind of car this is in? That part doesn't matter, but it will give me a mental picture of where everything is. If you need my help, let me know and I'll email you my phone #, or send me yours.

Man, that's pretty rightous of you. I will email you with my number when it comes time to try it again.

The car is a 90 camaro like mine, except his has T-tops. Most of the basic connections were in the ignition, the lock/unlock were in the Kick panel ( (-) connections), Sensing was from the pin of driver side door (preliminary connection eventually would include passenger door) and the hood and trunk via light output.

Anyway I'm rambling. Thanks again.

from what i can tell you have a passion for this stuff. that's good. keep on keepin on. i've been doing it only since '93 but i also have learned from hard knocks school.. the best way for you to get some experience is through an apprenticeship, or maybe get a job at a local shop... they probably won't pay you much to start but you'll learn volumes.. i am also NOT MECP certified.. don't let a cert. fool you. it's just a piece of paper that says you have certain book smarts. doing 12 volt requires ALOT of car smarts and repetition. wndo could tell you where the wires are in that car and what color, polarity even related to the radio if need be. he's probably done hundreds of those cars, or cars like them.. (other GM vehicles resemble those cars, a beretta is one that 'electrically' resembles the camaro) and like with anything a person wants to learn, repetition builds knowledge. best buy will send you to get a mecp cert. if you want, they'll probably even hire someone with little to no experience. you could try them out, but remember, connectors fail ok, i'm rambling now. sorry i couldnt help with this alarm problem. take care.

Hello,

I will be installing this alarm with a friend (who is MECP certified) this Saturday in a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder. I trust him very much as a general installer but he doesn't have experience with Compustar alarms. The more I read on-line about it the more nervous I am becoming. I would be interested to hear how things turn out for you.

Is there any place I can get more information on the programming?

Thanks!

once again, www.compustar.org has the install manual available for downloading and/or printing. It contains all programmable features. If you are confident in your buddy's abilities then you should be fine. This is just like any other alarm/remote start out there. They are all the same except for very minor things, like available options, programmable options, etc. I've only had 2 or 3 compustars NOT work properly out of hundreds and hundreds. I've used them for over 6 years. The biggest problem I've had with them is the doorlock outputs stop working in several, so I sent them back and they fixed them, no problem.

My shop just started using the compustar alarms. I heard about the doorlock problems from one of my new installers. When installation is concerened I think the Compustar takes some getting used to the first couple of times, you'll then breeze through the install. Get the programmer it saves time.

I have to give a plug to my new favorite piece to install. The parent company is called AstroFlex, and they make the AstroStart. Let me just say that it puts the Compu* to shame. It is insanely flexible, unbelievably dependable, and truly bulletproof. I've installed probably 200 since November of last year and NOT ONE has come back with a problem. Proramming the options is easier than setting the time on an analog clock.

the only suckie thing about compustar is that it doesnt come w/ preprogrammed remote, but other than that its the best....period!!!!

try read the manual carefully and turn on and off the key really fast. or you can manually jumping the green wire (i think its the one goes to the ignition) to a +12volt to act like turn the key.

Since this was your first post, I'll take it easy on you.

If the unpreprogrammed remote was the only "suckie" thing about Compustar, I'd still be using them. How about the fact that the door lock outputs quit, or the brains won't go into programming, or maybe the fact that the wire harness with the tach and brake wire is the ONLY plug that does not LOCK into the brain?

do you folks know about compustar 2wfm?

thanks.

are you quoting yourself? If you have 2 starter wires, I just treat them as 1 wire. Cut both, put key side of both together and the car side of both together. As for the orange and orange/white, your car arms and disarms the factory alarm with lock and unlock. You may have to connect the orange/white to the unlock wire to disarm the factory alarm before the remote start sequence, and then take the orange to the lock wire. What will happen then is, when you remote start the system, it will pulse the orange/white to disarm factory alarm, which will unlock the doors, start the car, then pulse the orange to lock the doors.

it appears that we do not have an edit function. i made a mistake on the quote function. in result it did not come out the way i want it.


since i do not have an OEM alarm and presently have an aftermarket basic alarm. can i ignore these wires? thanks.

you have an aftermarket alarm AND a compustar?

If you do not have a factory alarm, you do not use the 2 orange wires.

sorry, i did not make myself clear. i currently have a Clifford basic alarm and would like to replace it with Compustar 2wfm.


for the sake of knowledge for me, i would like to know why connecting 2 different wires together in to one starter wire since nissan maxima has 2 different starter wires. will it cause problems? are those 2 wires meant to be separate?

thanks.

the second starter wire is for more fuel delivery when cold. It does not hurt anything to hook them together. If you are worried about it, make 2 relays to control the starter wires to keep them separated, but function at the same time. Just do away with the prewired relay on the starter wire. It functions as a starter disable when armed.

thanks for clearing things up.

While I was trying to remove the old basic alarm, I see the 2nd starter wire was not cut and the accessory wire was not tapped for the old Clifford alarm. Do you know why? What will or will not happen if I do you same?

another question, how do you pop off the 4 tabs after removing the golden bolt? i need to get to the tach wire?

The second starter wire only feeds extra fuel. But since most remote starts only have 1 starter output, I join both starter wires together. You could make 2 relays and have the starter output from the RS control both relays and turn them into starter signals. As far as the tach, just cut the tape and test for it or go out under the hood to a fuel injector.

thanks.

If a vehicle has two starter wires you want to treat them as two separate connections and use a relay on second starter and the one off the unit to primary start. I have been installing for over 10 years so if you don't want issues, try to keep the vehicle system as close to original and don't mickey mouse stuff together.

Well, I've been installing 12 volt for over 20 years and I've NEVER had ONE problem connecting the 2 starter wires. By the way, 2 things.

1. Register

2. See if you can find an older post to resurrect.

If it's a Toyota, I had and found the solution with the 2 starter wires. It's posted here somewhere. The car was a newer Rav4 and had the same prob on a camery

Connected the 2 start wires on the camery and no issues