Any of you folks have a solution for "silvering: or the areas that look like foam under the film? I only notice it on dark color cars and it seems to be a problem in the adhesive.

I've heard that it dryes off, but nut 100%.

It depends on what slip you are using as to how long it will take to clear up, but it usally does.

Maybe I didn't describe the problem correctly, I know slip solutions will clear out.
This is areas in the adhesive I think, that are lumpy and you can feel them too. I have tried spraying the areas with both pure alcohol, water, both. Nothing seems to work.

I think you are talking about "stretch marks". They are what you get when you stretch the material too far and seperate the adhesive. Happens alot with 3M. Once you do this there is no way to repair it. Try not to use the alcohol mix when stretching. Use it only for anchoring. Use your slip while stretching and try not to move it again once you have squeeged it down. If you have to lift an area, make sure you spray constantly while peeling it back. Also, try not to peel it back but lift it up instead remembering to spray underneath while lifting.

Hope this helps.

Thanks, I know that when stretched it causes these blemishes. I just hate when it shows up in areas that haven't been stretched, like right in the middle of a bumper.

I hear ya. That is one of the reasons I use Venture. I don't have those happen anymore.

I use Venture Tape for my door edge guard rolls, it sticks like crazy. I've also used it on white cars sometimes. I tried some on my black car next to the 3M and it has more of an orange peel compared to the Scotchcal, but your right, there were no "silvering" areas.

The "silvering" problem you are describing in some areas of the vehicle during the installation can be eliminated. If you are finding this in sharp, concave areas it may be that there is solution left behind after the application is complete. The solution fills in the gap between the adhesive and the painted surface and LOOKS as if the material is smoothed onto the surface. After this solution evaporates though, the adhesive is not pressed against the surface leaving "ghost" lines underneath. Stretch marks in the middle of a hood or bumper will also leave the silvering color, unless you do this. When you lay the material onto the surface with your slip solution, you need a starting point so you spray your alcohol solution between the film and the painted surface. After tacking the middle, you begin to stretch to your first alignment point to relieve the "curtaining" affect (fingers in the film) across the front arc of the bumper/hood. The alcohol solution flushes out the slip solution and allows for QUICK adhesion to the painted surface (the stuff is bonded as you know) and when you stretch, the adhesive cannot give at all and therefore "tears" beneath. So what happens is the urethane stretches, but the adhesive doesn't. So how do you eliminate this? After tacking the middle, GENTLY lift the material and rewet the adhesive with the slip solution underneath and squeegee about 2-4 inches over into the slip area. This will allow the adhesive to stretch with the urethane instead of tearing.

I only use alcohol to make my overlap stick, not for anchoring in the middle of panels. Using Film On as my slip allows me to anchor the film very well so the need for alcohol is virtualy eliminated.

I don't understand the streching part when you can cut it to fit exactally where you need it, and if you should have afinger you can use your heat gun just like tint and shrink it out, really!

The reason for stretching, is to get it to lay flat on heavily curved areas. And I've messed with heating here or there, but in my experience, it doesn't lay the fingers down anything like window tinting.. The only thing I do is slightly "warm" up edges if they don't want to stick well. I'll have to play around with that some more.