RobOnTheCape

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About RobOnTheCape

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Experience
    7-8
  • Country
    United States

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  • Location
    Martha's Vineyard, MA.
  1. I have two rolls of 1050B(Bronze) film, each are 36 x 100. Still wrapped in original plastic, though boxes have been in an outside shed for a few years, thus quite worn. $100 each(must take both) plus shipping. robdonovan@comcast.net
  2. I found this company: here and the rep said it will greatly reduce glare, applied from the outside, one year manu warranty, and ordering a roll at almost 40" x 33' it is about $2625.00, or about $24 psf(small discount to be a dealer). They are sending a sample once the revisions to the film have been completed and more arrives. I see a lot of holes in this one, but I'll get a sample and see. Anyone else heard of them? Used this film? From the website's before and after photos I suppose I see some reduction, but nothing as dramatic as the price would demand.
  3. On a few jobs where the wooden windows had layers of chipped paint I cleaned the edges as best I could, then actually blue taped all around. Took extra time definitely, but it was worked into the estimate.
  4. It was suggested to me to try Vista VS 80(ceramic), and that would do the trick. Actually applied an entire piece (40 x 65), and not the slightest difference outside looking in. Great looking out though.
  5. Hi all. Does anyone have any experience with a film(hopefully LL or Vista) which can reduce the reflectivity looking into a storefront? A potential customer(and her neighbors I think) have glass which is so reflective that you can hardly see what is inside the storefronts. Thanks Rob
  6. Something I found myself doing for one recently completed job was to take the piece I was applying and to peel back just a bit off the top and tape the edges up (backing towards me) to the top trim of the window on either side of the window I was filming. Wet the window, pull the backing completely off, flip and apply. The job was about 1500 s/f, and was mostly sliders 44 x 78ish. Worked great every time.
  7. I noticed that some low-e film has an emissivity of about .33, and while that is substantially more effective at keeping in the heat than others at .95, the enerlogic film has an emissivity of .07, and the engineer at the plant who designed it said that independent tests show that number is more like .05. This number is really starting to open the eyes of building design firms out there who before would not consider film as an energy saving option.
  8. Talk about timely I have a job coming up applying film to a storefront. It's four windows total each approximately 5' x 6' each. Two of the have oval decals advertising the owners business. I was planning on just creating a template, applying the film (N1050/40), and cutting around the decals using the template. The decals are maybe 1' x 2' each. You think I can film over something this big? Thanks
  9. Just removed 1500 s/f of film. I started at the top and as I pulled I applied x-100 and let it soak as I pulled. For the most part it worked better than pulling quick and leaving the adhesive to scrape off inch by inch with a 6" scraper. Still, my arm is a size larger than last month.
  10. I think it helps reduce some. I'm filming a home with a total of about 1500 s/f of it. They windows are double pane with no condensation issues. However, I have two panes of glass in my home which are just flat single pane glass which had puddled quite a bit. I applied the film, and though I do get condensation on the film itself, I get very little of the puddling I did before. Didn't stop it, but I think there's a reduction of some sort. One thing I noticed is that the two non low e windows I applied the film to have fingers which I can't keep down. I think the film must be cold sensitive the way say Llumar N10 series is not. Haven't had any issues whatsoever on the job with double pane. Fingers now crossed.
  11. Does everyone here use templates and pre-cut film for small panes of glass? I just finished doing a few hundred and it came out great, smae last year doing 148 pcs. Since I charge a 2sf minimum per window opening I look at it as pure profit.
  12. "Hey Rob, It just happens that I am in the market for cell shades OR shutters. I got a quote for Normal shutters but the price was pretty high. Can you tell me what kind of margin there are for this type of product?? Should a 34 X 58 window run about $400 for a white wood shutter? Also I liked the looks of the Norman Shutters but heard some bad things on some of the boards (made in China and so on). Any feedback on quality? Thanks for whatever help you can provide. SP" Sorry for the looong delay. Haven't been on this site in awhile. Norman Woodlores are MDF, and it seems to be the shutter of choice when choosing between the three Norman has to offer. The dealer should be offering them to you at around $15.00 -$16.00 shipped. Retail Woodlores run around $31.00 here, with install perhaps additional. Your price is about $28.50 per ft. Shops here might match that if they were presented with another shops deal. Woodlores are the choice here on the Cape since they are not prone to warping like the real wood may do. I've installed large arched systems in bathrooms with no problems so far. There may be a better shutter to install from an installers point of view, but I haven't run across it. Hinges are tight allowing for 2-3 panels hinged together with little drop off, and the hinges themselves are adjustable. A very good system, and the only drawback I see is the fact that they are made in China, and while the production process starts days after they receive the order, to receive them here on the east coast the shipping time is about 6 weeks, more for systems requiring templates. Otherwise, the fact that they are made in China should be a non-issue. Otherwise don't bother shopping in any big box store- or about any other store these days. For blinds check out Smith and Noble online, or just type in "blinds" in Google. Blinds online save you sometimes 50% over a retailer, though quality varies Cheers
  13. give the new guy a mulligan will ya. thanks
  14. But you finished the job right? Was installing some blinds, but had to use a hole saw to recess the electronics into a soffet. The holesaw bit hit a nail, jumped and tore into my finger. Blood everywhere. had to wrap it up and get to the ER. They stiched it up, I was back finishing the job in an hour. But not before getting the blood off of the tiles and grout. Funny how puctures, cuts etc... just seem part of the jobs, and most are shrugged off. Maybe like in medieval times. Lose an arm? Apply some frog gut on it and back to work after a half day recoup.
  15. I just started tinting awhile back, and have decided to move much more into tint over blinds/shutters. I mentioned this on another thread, but with tint there's much less stress. You bring in the right tint, cut/apply, check, and walk away. Not so with blinds/shutters. Off by a 1/4 on an inside mount blind/shutter and you own it. I've started to refer the blind jobs out and pick up a referral fee. Less lifting(especially shutters) less trash, less go backs. With blind install you needs parts galore to carry along. Tint you need a bucket of tools and a few extras in the truck. In comparison I see tinting as free money. btw, I can easily see 30 - 40k jobs in blinds. HD Silhouettes can be pricey and they go up awfully fast. 4 hours - you have a pretty good system down to get that done. btw, I just happened to come across this site a few hours ago. Great site, and a godsend of info. If I can help anyone with blinds/shutters(I love Norman shutters) feel free to get back to me. Measure sheets/advice whatever just get back to me. Cheers