scottydosnntkno

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scottydosnntkno last won the day on January 18 2016

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About scottydosnntkno

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    What is love? Baby don't hurt me, don't hurt me, no more

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    22
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    The Motor City
  1. Good. Staying busy. Well, tint has slowed down with the cold weather but that huge job I did a few months ago is nice to have in the bank. Finally bought my new baby, a '06 f250 with 55k miles. Put a lift new wheels/tires and a plow on it, then lined up enough accounts that I bought a second one plus most of my accoutns are seasonal so Im still gettin paid even though its not snowing also started making a million tshirts/hoodies. Been getting a lot of 200+ item orders the last few months.
  2. Im back from being lost in the deep for those spots under the matrix, its air bubbles not dirt spots right(mostly)? They come from pulling air out of the defroster line, and the fact that you were heating it at the same time dried the adhesive and resulted in those bubbles. They're easy to fix. Just pull back all the film at the top, spray with water, let it sit for 10 seconds and then lay it back down and squeegee it out again. They will go away and not hurt the film. Trust me, i'm familiar with TB and use it a ton. Looks a lot better than leaving it like that as even when dry they will still be noticeable.
  3. i've done a few with pulling the light and a few without. I find the new (2012) ones the light doesn't come out the same way anymore, so I just cut around it. The plastic of the light is NOT flexible and looked like it was about to crack so I stopped pulling on it. Also, on the new(2008?+) ones even the regular a4's have the amps in the back. In the previous years only the s4's had the amps, at least from what I can remember. as for the panels, I find it easier to take the whole thing off. Pry off the plastic on top from the back of the door panel to the front, otherwise you'll break the hooks. Theres 4-5 torx depending on whether its a front or back door, one on the bottom of the door and two behind the plastic covering the pull handle that also pries off starting from the back. Then just pop off the panel. The gaskets are the type that have soft metal in them, so be careful pulling them off or else you'll bend them all up. I like to start from the middle of the gasket with a panel popper tool to spread out the force and just kinda pull up fast to pop it out.
  4. that window you want to anchor a little lower than normal, since the bottom is where all the shrink is at. I've done a bunch of them with TB with no problems. TB is a forgiving film in that you can shrink it a little bit, go somewhere else, shrink a little more, wait, a little more, etc. You have to "coax" the film down, not go for it all at once. also, don't try and card/push it down with your fingers until the very end just let the film flow. The curve on that window will allow the film to pull itself down, so you won't crease it when you finally think its shrunk enough to push it down. also try leaving the film 2-3" long and intentionally burn the edge when you're almost done shrinking as it will help tighten up the film on the bottom so when you finish shrinking the last little bit the tension will pull the film down. Or, do it the "easy" way since you're gluing the dots anyways and two piece it with a seam where the dots start, the glue will hide the slight bump where it overlaps. as for the side finger, you need to anchor the film up and down about 6" on each side so 12" total up and down the way it has the wicked side curve or else the film wants to pull back and finger like you experienced. In a couple days when the film and adhesive is completely dry you may be able to get those fingers down a little better, but chances are they're big enough that it'll just crease.
  5. if they've done caulking before, they'd probably be a lot more qualified than you to do it, assuming you've never done it before
  6. I use one blade per car. Start with the bg using three snaps total, then cut the tops of the four doors, snapping two snaps between each one
  7. In the summer if i'm not wearing flip flops then I work in one of several pairs of shox I have. I haven't bought a tennis shoe other than a shox for at least 10 years, they're my favorite by far. In the fall/spring/winter, walking around on the concrete can make you feet really cold in shoes, plus add in the water dripping from the cars from the snow and my feet would freeze. So last year I bought a pair of Red Wing 185(i think?) 6" insulated boots, and they are the best things ever. Vibram sole with a custom insert and it feels like you're walking on clouds all day, while your feet stay nice and warm and dry. Can step in a 6" deep puddle and not get wet. yes, i've tried it
  8. auto glass or regular glass, there is no such thing as "clear" glass. Glass can only be 80-85% clear at the most. Thats why with aquariums acrylic is so popular, because where expensive saphire glass or whatever its called might be 85% clear, acrylic is 95-98% clear.
  9. I'm one of or the highest around, I don't really call and compare just hear it from customers My install time has almost been cut in half in the last year, including pulling every panel. Getting a good technique down and using it every time on every car helps. So, I basically make double what i could make last year, with some FG thrown in to help out. If I had a "labor" rate, it would be about 2 benjis an hour is what I can typically put out doing auto on a standard job, HP/ceramic jobs more obviously. Charge what you feel you are worth, what you can get, and I like to make it so that I am guaranteed to make my rent/utilities/expenses in the first week, or about 2 cars/day or equivalent in other items.
  10. the blurred look is due to the backing paper. Similar to PPF. Only with 8300 its thinner and has an aggressive adhesive so once applied and stretched it evens out and is smooth.
  11. My guess is theres a coating on the glass that has been scraped off partially from the repeated install/removal process. The project i'm working on now theres a few spots where the coating was rubbed off and now you can see it with the new film installed. Granted, its nothing like those photos, but still same concept.
  12. The Suntek HP50 blue is probably the closest you'll get to the mercedes look, or else Express makes a 60% blue as well. And has been pointed out, you can't get "clear" auto glass. Its all 70-85% VLT, with a green hint to it.
  13. Several other of their films are global products under different names Its a good way to add quality products into their lineup without having to spend tons of money having them made for them, as well as carrying excess inventory.
  14. from what I understand when I was looking into printers a while ago, they are either a good printer or a good cutter, but not both. You'd be better off getting a separate printer and cutter. Anyone can correct me if i'm wrong
  15. Try the classic 1.2. Its QDP reboxed which arguably matches factory tint better than any other film on the market, even TB. It is? Yes. Classic 1.2NR is QDP reboxed for national delivery outside their territory.