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  1. update i just did and r/r on a 2014 e550 and one line came completely off and another near the bottom. This was removing with a steamer and the film left no adhesive. Looks like the lines are not that good. Good thing these lines are wired in parallel so just those lines wont work. For future reference tell the customer of the possibility of line damage before removal or if installing make sure is 100 before giving back to them. You dont want to be doing a warranty and this happens. BTW i didnt do the original tint.
  2. Just looking at your post I can tell your new to tinting. All i can say is hang it there it get easier over the years. One day you'll be good enough where you wont have to do those P.O.S cars anymore. Being able to charge more will get rid of those customers. Since you're new you got to do what you can get. good luck
  3. I've also use the end of the rolls to gift wrap a bottle. Tie it off with a red ribbion.
  4. I have two theories on films that remove cleanly without glue. one is its cheap film like solarguard. Films with cheap adhesive will do this. Second i think something bonded to the glass prior to tinting. Those anti-fog that makes the slip bead. I notice once the film is removed the glass no longer beads. Who knows i could be wrong.
  5. I know exactly how you feel throwing away that pattern because of a stupid small finger that wont lay down. There's two technique one is to let it dry then smooth it out. The adhesive is remarkably tolerant to this. Second is my favorite if you dont have time. Heat it up real hot then smooth it to where it lays then cool it with some slip from the outside. This rapid heating and cooling makes it tack. Be real careful with this technique especially on windshields. Do it wrong on a windshield and the same thing happens when you take a fresh glass cup out of the dishwasher and put a cold drink in it.
  6. For most flat side windows you can snap it.
  7. The Ryk method using two heat guns is the best method. Second would be pocket shrinking but that doesn't work well with all types of windows.
  8. hands down these are the best towels. I use about three per car. 44 tools has the best prices on them.
  9. That's odd I've done plenty of those cars and never had that problem. Is the glass oem? The only car that has ever happened was on an 09' Lexus is350 that had the thermolite glass.
  10. Here's the list from the top of my head on which Audi's need felt. A3 cabriolet A5 & S5 A5 cabriolet A5 sportback including S5 sportback A7 & S7 & RS7 TT & TTS RSTT R8 If I ever see one of them Audi bean counters I'm going to have a few words for them. Each one of those cars use double the amount of felt a normal car would. The double lip both have to be felted. Some bummers and hondas you could cut the lower lip off and just felt the top but not on these cars. Those cabriolet need felt on the quarter windows. I've always said no way am I doing those.
  11. Here's a tip for Audi that get scratched from your olfa during removal of tint from the side windows. Roll the window all the way down and heat the gasket then take a towel and rub it until it's smooth. It'll look like you were never there.
  12. All the answer you seek is in this forum. There was a tip posted many years ago that I use all the time for quarters. Take a wire and use a blue stick to shove it into the gasket. The wire gives you just enough room to tuck the film behind it without any gaps. I know you're going to ask do you take the wire out afterwards? No use a black 12-14 gauge wire and no one will ever see it. As for a template use a liner to make one.
  13. what Ryker said. Wassu Ryker your shrink method saved me when i started using crystalline. it works perfect for that fim.Thanks bro
  14. The carpet shields are plastic. Every cover set should last 6 months to a year if you take care of them.
  15. Holy crap I didn't notice that on Amazon it say ships in 1 to 2 months. Those shields are available elsewhere. If you guys find a suitable alternative post it up here. Thanks