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  1. I typically take 3-4 hours to Tint a car.
  2. For Global I use 10 drops of Joy Ultra in a 32oz spray bottle. P2P pump sprayer I use a 1sec squirt. Making the slip look light yellow color. I use the two bottle method the P2P is for the back glass and also for the bottom half of roll downs when you need it extra slippery to tuck behind the seals. If the temperature is 85 degrees and above go 12 drops and 1.5 second squirt. I gave up using baby shampoo along time ago. I got fed up with the constant lanolin build up in the bottles. With joy there’s no residue with regular use.
  3. 7-8 hours but next time 4-5 hours.
  4. I ended up cutting the sweeps and it didn’t alter the functionality of anything. The sweep is held down on the door frame and the door panel has its own recess that it goes into the sweep. If you guys have any questions let me know while it’s still fresh in my memory.
  5. Rear windshield has a foam that’s touches the glass from the rear sun shade assembly. So far I tinted it and have it curled against the foam. The foam is right at the edge of the dot matrix. Hopefully it can dry like that and I’ll leave it be. As for stock amp in the quarter panel I didn’t see any but I looked and saw that Audi engineers put a plastic cover to protect electronics from water. Be liberal with your slip on this one. I’ll report back on how it goes tomorrow when I finish
  6. 2017 Audi A8L need felt. Screw this car it’s a royal pain to work on. It’s fighting you the entire way. Front door panels is 3 8mm bolts. Two are behind the wood trim. Get a plastic wedge tool and poke near the door handle to pop it out. It’s super tight but will pop out then slide it forward. The other bolt is underneath in the storage area. The rear doors are even harder with Two under the wood and one under the door handle. There’s a speaker grill and right at the handle there’s a plastic cover that you pop off to reveal the hidden bolt.thia cover is not the grill like in the A6. When the panel is off you have to remove the sun shade. The best way to do this is have it in the up position and then twist the rod to the left releasing it from the internal c clip then pull down. The felt seal is all one piece but I don’t see why you can’t just cut it where it attaches. That’s as far as I got today. I’m looking at cutting the seal so I can remove it to felt. It doesn’t look like it would effect regular operation of the windows. The panel would hold down the seal but any time u modify an expensive car there’s risk.
  7. I just did this car yesterday. Bg is tight but you can get it in without removing panels. The front doors sweeps are easy to take out. Just pop the top of the panel and pull them out. By far the hardest window was the front quarter windows. Very small opening but I was able to get a scrubbie in there to clean and just use my pump spray bottle to hose it. If you curl the pattern you can get it in there. The Tri-edge reach is the only tool i could use to squeegee. Once the film is in there i can see no way that you can remove it with removal of that small quarter glass.
  8. Maybe you'll have better luck with gloves. I've tried it before and it doesn't feel the same. I just spray my finger tips before touching the film. Even then it's only on the edges where it won't be seen.
  9. Stay away from Solarguard it's 💩. If you don't believe me go install some and let it fully cure then use your usual method for removal. Easiest film to remove. This film also likes to curl. If you dont tuck below the seal the adhesive won't hold up. Their ceramic is the lowest heat rejection number among their competitors and it's thick. It's thicker then global ceramic.
  10. 😂 put the 🍺 Down. I think you might of had one to many. It's good thinking outside of the box though. Try controlling your environment instead. Like reducing clutter or area where dust can collect. Having clean floors and using a leaf blower will greatly reduce contamination. If you're really worried about lint then try wearing a nylon type jacket or pull-over.
  11. Thanks bro. It looks crazy but he's right leave the middle alone its an inverted curve. shrink the top and bottom sides. when installing start in the middle and work out. that lower hatch window is also inverted no shrinking required.Make sure u have a small turbo and just go to town on it.
  12. I don't think you need a waiver for all tinting just the removal of the back glass when defrost lines are present. BTW I asked for the damaged back glass. It's going to be displayed as an example of what can happen.
  13. So recently I had a regular customer ask for tint removal on the back half of a 2015 Mercedes E-class. Basically customer bought the car like that and wanted something lighter. Since they were regular customers and I got distracted and forgot to tell them that removal can cause damage to the defrost lines. Since I messed up and forgot I owe them a new back glass. Replaced with oem glass. A $1000 mistake. This has since made me think of a new process to prevent this from happening again. Does anyone use a damage waiver/ release of liability that has to be signed for removal of the back glass? If so can you post it. I would like some ideas of what to write on such a form. Thanks
  14. Three reason you would see that many specs. Welding slack , bad film or dirty water source. Welding happens on a lot of salvage cars and cars that was repaired at shops that don't give an f. I once had dirty water after a water main was repaired and when I refilled my bottle all kinds of contamination got in. As for bad film if you ever used 3m fx they had a lot of bad rolls. 3m said it was adhesive failure and not spec from someone leaving the factory door open. lol that's why their cameras never picked up on the bad film. The spec appeared afterwards. BTW if u happen to have one of these bad roll 3m will credit you and you can just chuck the roll. They don't want it back.
  15. That's exactly what the seals looked like. Very similar to the panamera