smookee408@yahoo.com

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About smookee408@yahoo.com

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  • Age
    33
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  • Location
    california

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  1. It's pretty much the same as the other years. Frameless Windows pop up when closed. Doors need felt. Other then felt it's cake.
  2. The nerve of the guy he texted me and ask me to come back in to do a few warranties. I asked him if it was the windows where the film is above the seal and I told you would come back? See if he would've let me fix it the first time that wouldn't of happened. Instead he only thought about his bottom line and not waste film. Hahah now he gets to fix it by himself. My money is on it that'll hell use the same computer cut pattern that's above the seal. Lol. All film should be tucked below the seal that's SOP
  3. Buy those welcome mats from Home Depot. The one with rubber bottom and had carpet top. Leave them below the car doors and they do a great job of soaking up all the slip that drops down. This method will greatly reduce the amount of times you'll have to mop.
  4. Solarguard is garbage basura!!???????????? the hp and galaxie has a weak adhesive. Here's how I know it curls when it dries. The computer cut software of Solarguard sometimes would put the bottom edge of the patterns right above the seal. With most films I've worked with it wouldn't peel. With Solarguard it always peeled. The film would have a tiny curl even when heated to extremes before handing the car back to customers. Now for roll ups when you heat the top edge to shave the film would curl like a mofo and introduce contam if you're not careful. All in all you'll waste a lot more time and energy with Solargard. The last shop I was at I quit because the boss is shady and uses this basura film.
  5. You can double cut and double shrink but remember the pattern that's on the bottom needs to be extra shrank. If you don't you'll usually end up with some fingers on the bottom pattern. I remedied this by snapping the bottom pattern a little bit more. That's how I use to do it. For years now I just double cut and snap the patterns on the peeler.
  6. Use 000 or 00 steel wool.
  7. You want a tip charge more to do those cars. I hate the old Lexus they have thick defrosters. To prep them I would steel wool the lines. Also make sure you get the pattern on the back glass without shifting it too much. Moving the film can cause dirt to come of the lines. There's another technique I've heard of but honestly have never tried it in fear of breaking a defrost line. It's called "back blading" with a 1" stainless blade. You take the blade and pull it backwards to scrape crud off the lines.
  8. Bluemax angled with a unger pro green handle for final pass.
  9. ???? I covered the dash but with my squeegee technique I kind of make it rain from the top.
  10. ???? me and my boss was saying the same thing. We're never buying a Dodge.
  11. I did a windshield for a 2016 challenger the other day. During the installed I noticed some odd relay click sounds and didn't think anything of it. Since the other windows are frameless I never turned on the ignition so there's no reason for the battery to die but it had symptoms of a dead battery. I put it on a charger and still nothing. The ignition didn't even turn on. I finally went to the trunk to get to the battery. I noticed the ground cable post was loose and I tightened but still didn't start. At first I thought I got something wet in the dash. My technique is to squeegee in a u and bring all the water to the top that way I shouldn't get more then half a shot glass of water down the dash. It was odd while I was checking fuses all of a sudden I heard the radio on and ignition on. I then proceeded to step on the brake and push the start button and it started. Now the odd thing is the key fob was nowhere near the car and it started. Who knows what happened but I'm glad it didn't happen again and the customer was able to pick it up.
  12. Sounds like a great idea.
  13. Man I'm so glad that I see you guys having the same problem with Solarguard peeling. When my boss does his windows he always has to torch dry it. He'll torch the entire window once he's done. I keep telling Him you shouldn't have to do that to a quality film. I'm used to just bluemaxing my film and I don't limp wrist either but it seems the Solarguard films needs the heat to stick. It's sucks because now I have to wet shrink instead of snapping and I have to heat the entire window for the film to lay.
  14. My boss is a Solarguard fanboy and every chance I get I talk shis and jab him. I not going to stop until he replaces the hp line with something like global qdp. lol I think he's almost had enough and is going to do it soon. Any Llumar reps in the San Jose area pm me and I'll be your inside man talking into his ear to make the switch ????
  15. The shop I work at carries Solarguard HP , Galaxy and ultra performance. Good better best. Ive been tinting for 12 years and have used many films : 3m cs & crystalline , suntek carbon, cxp Llumar atc, ctx. Protectgard, Aswf excel and even optical technology. Solarguard hp is a crap film it peels away from the back glass when it dries. For side windows it will peel at the bottom if you snap the film. It looks like it likes a wet shrink for the sides. You'll have to heat it to make it stick. As for the adhesive I feel that it won't last in the long run plus it has and ugly dark bluish color to it. Hp would rank last on my list. Stay away! Galaxy is not a bad film it's definitely a few steps up from hp. Now for ultra performance wth is up with a thick film that's hard to shrink with Tser numbers that is the lowest of its competitors. Don't expect to shrink a hard back glass with this film. Out of all the films Llumar is the best with 3m taking second place. The only reason I would go with Solarguard is for their computer cut program. It is the best most user friendly program there is. I've used precision cut and film design and CC is the best hands down.