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pbalentine

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pbalentine last won the day on June 28 2016

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About pbalentine

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Age
    37
  • Experience
    since 2007
  • Interests
    Window tinting, skateboarding, foxbody mustangs.
  • Location
    Phoenix, Arizona
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Top cut issues

    Years back i started holding the blade how you would a pen (blade where pen tip would be) and trimming from right to left. Im right handed and make patterns on drive side of vehicle. Took the stress out of top cuts, and made them a breeze.
  2. classic black vs global QDP?

    I've used both QDP and classic black and could never tell any difference as in shrinking, pulling liner and how it tacks. Also, I've never had a scratching issue with either and when i have gotten a scratch its always due to a nick in a hard card.
  3. Scrubby pad contamination??

    Id probably scrub like 4-5 cars with it or 2 turd bombs. Ive notice they leave alot of stuff behind when used up and have seen particles under the bg a few times. I only use them for bgs, top edge of rollups and for removal jobs.
  4. Cleaning

    Yeah, slip isnt gonna clean that good, especially gaskets caked in dirt and grime. I use a separate sraymaster with dawn ultra for cleaning. Even in the summer with a ton of slip i dont like it. Dawn is cheaper too.
  5. Suntek CXP vs CIR?

    This sums it up...pin it and end thread.
  6. Time?

    Its funny how tinters pride themselves on speed. How fast does not matter, its how clean the patterns and install is. My installs are as good as they get and thats all that matters. Speed would only be an issue if you are missing out on work for taking too long. Seriously, do you think guys in auto painting think theyre the best because how fast they paint....nope, its the end result the custy is stuck with. Years later do think custy will think of you and be like damn that guy is fast. Actually, my last custy said hes had a few bad mobile installs from guys that were in and out quickly. He thanked me for taking my time and tipped me...quality does pay not speed.
  7. Time?

    No felt to tape, interiors/exterior parts to remove like panel, seals & brake light takes 2 hr for an easy sedan. With any of the above at its difficult then 2.5-3 hr and thats with no redos.
  8. 2018 charger pics

    Nice work...yeah pulling seals is a must on this one. Bg is huge too. I always charge extra for this one.
  9. Removal rates...are you charging enough?

    Thats exaclty what i think when im stuck for hours scrapping some turd for nothing. The shop that quoted it properly is now tinting more vehicles, making more money in less time and laughing at who ever got stuck doing it.
  10. Just raised the price for removal. I used to charge somewhat low because theres not much cost to it (all back breaking labor no film) and i wanted the job. Now, i realize you lose money because you can tint 2 vehicles in the time it takes to r/r 1 vehicle. I acutally wont mind them now, since i'll make the same removing one vehicle as I will tinting two vehciles with no removal. I'd like to thank DynamicsATL for influencing me to raise my removal rates. Now, i charge what he does, plus im charging $50 extra for removal on vehicles that are 5 years old. So if you hate removal, maybe its not all because is kills your body and takes up your day, but because your simply not charging enough like i did. If you can get them done quickly, then its just easier money made.
  11. You could give the price quote and say you will match any "reputable" shop, which this guy isnt for what he charges. Lets say most in your area charge $175-$250....$100 is such an undercut? Just say something has to give, like the suran wrap being used. Also, if theyre lying about what they use, how else will they lie. In my area if anyone mentiones a price under $150 I basiclaly say theyre a joke!
  12. As for bad reviews, repond/reply to them in the most professional manner; which can actually make you look good. As for them being cheaper, I would stress that your installs are cleaner, which is most important and if something happens with the film, you'll be in business to assist them. Also explain you see these shops come and go and if they want great film and install you're for them, but if they want cheap shiat, you're not. That basically what i do now, i say if you want best film and install im your guy, but if you want just a cheap price and film that last a year im not for you. And no, i wont match there price...many $99 tint are out there that will be gone really soon go find them. You get what you pay for. Edit: You mentioned he does good work. I would say that ceramic is usually around $4-$500. If he charges that low, i doubt your getting ceramic=cheap rebox.
  13. I did try looking for it just 2 weeks ago, but couldnt find. If anyone can, please post. I found it!!! https://www.tintdude.com/forum/topic/61586-ewf-and-sliptack/ Edit: I dont think its the exact thread, but he mentioned the lab nerds, which i remember from the thread i was looking for.
  14. Just think though, what slip will bond the best with the rear glass? The best tack would be with straight water, but of course you cant do that. After install, Id rather have the most mild slip floating under the film for days than something that designed to clean dishes and floors. As for joy non-ultra. Had that stuff leave soap residue bubbles under a FG job weeks later that I did years ago, which all had to be replaced. That was it for dish soap for me.
  15. Howard at EWF posted years ago of a lab study that proved it degraded adhesive. After that I never considered it. I just dont get why some use it? Maybe because it provides extra slip?? Baby shampoo gives me enough slip in 115*(1.5 shot glasses).
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