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shadytints last won the day on April 1

shadytints had the most liked content!

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About shadytints

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    Boating,beer and bikinis
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  1. Light mist of water or flush the window?

    older cars I blast the gaskets to remove the trash, new cars require less cleaning typically. as a top loader, old cars are more prone to dirt trails on the flipline from water and debris running back in. As a slip I like Ultra-bond straight for fast set and better bond strength. summer I add a drop of J&J for extra work time in high temp and humidity.
  2. Struggle

    wet it, blade it and wet again. squeegee border to border and wet film not window on small ones. small windows as you spray can spray the dust off the panel into your window. when you peel, make sure everything around it is misted and no water running into pattern. as you squeegee send water down so that gravity thing does not bring dirt in with slip. can peel quarters off rear door or BG to reduce exposure time and dusty cars get misted so I dont kick dust up getting in and out
  3. Top cut issues

    practice practice practice! I screw up trying to show and explain how and why I do what I do. like basketball, your style has to become second nature to get speed and quality. I never have filed, top edge should match perfect if cut right. as you cut the top edge, you have to maintain the same angle across the entire cut. I tend to move my upper body as I cut tops, not just my arm. tempered doors have a round top, any change in angles of your olfa will make your pattern not match.
  4. Water separation

    have not worked in a year, so have not tried myself. one of my students said worked great. Vesco wheel acid for detailers, little on steel wool and try not to drip. i will ask if he ever spilled and if it left a mark, my guess if it did he rinsed it off.
  5. Top cut issues

    keep 3 or 4 out cutting tops. knife perpendicular to the door, about 30 angle forward and the back edge up 10 degrees.
  6. Water separation

    wheel acid on a little steel wool removes it as well
  7. Best way to deal with peanuts

    pro-bond on the grid stops peanuts or strong cleaner during prep. went back to normal torch shrinking with no problems.
  8. Top cut issues

    winter is harder to cut top of doors. dirt and salt on top of doors chews blades up. if the first pass is rough on the cut I glance at the blade to see if its rough and click another out if needed. if the edge looked good I wipe the top of door to remove debris. tempered doors you can change the angle and shave a 1/32 to smooth(round top). lam have to shift up a 1/16 to recut(square edge). vids on the tube if you want to see
  9. Light

    180 watt 18,000 lumen mounted to a underhood bracket. 250 lumen for touch ups
  10. 'Rain-X like windows

    wheel acid from a detail shop on fine steel wool works
  11. Work light

    This is a mountain T5 39 watt underhood light case (amazon $85). only last a year or so being mobile. I gutted the frame and put a 32 inch 180 watt 18,000 lumen roof mount spot/fog bar into it (amazon $49). Clamp across B pillars for back and quarters or A pillar for pickups. alligator clips to my 1200 amp jump box or to car battery. do not use cig lighter on cars considering current draw. the second is a 250 lumen 3aaa battery for inspection in shops with poor lighting, $20 home depot.
  12. 99 Camaro

    factory glass is not bad, aftermarket can be tough. have seen people stretch it, like to shrink it myself. have a 95 camaro did 10+ years ago with a heat gun. a century reverse curve and a compressed snap. want another one to try heating bottom edge to drop the pouch. if you could flip the glass over, is not the bottom a regular curve? youtube, rob forbes
  13. Cleaning

    winter can be more challenging. I use ultra-bond all year with a touch of J&J in hot humid months. sets quick, just keep car inside for 15min after you finish. I peeled off the car as well and did not wash them when they came in. to help reduce trash in winter, turn fan on high with recirc. on. this will reduce dust in interior using the cabin filter. mist interior down to keep dust from going airborne as you tint. buy a 20x20 fan and at least a HP4 20x20 filter to remove dust in the shop. $20.00 for fan and $10.00 for 3 pack filters. mist upper gasket and door frames and 2 feet around your pattern when you peel, dont forget under side view mirrors. with doors in shops closed in winter and cars keeping windows up, more dust/dirt builds up from lack of air flow. side note, use rear defrost to heat BG, hot glass is much easier to shrink then cold.
  14. ?????? What ??????

    went to a shop to tint just the BG on a 300, they replaced the windows in the back doors and they came tinted. wonder who is making the glass and for how many different vehicles.
  15. Blue max Squeegee

    I have used hard card sharpener on turbos with deep nick. 220 grit smooths them out quick and gets them sliding again. only use my blue max with pro handle on film, never on glass. less chance of dirt embedding into the edge and scratching a pattern.