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shadytints last won the day on January 8

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About shadytints

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    Boating,beer and bikinis

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  1. the brass is worth the money IMO, I use P2 and fine mist for application and the plastic tips go bad quickly. worked in a few shops with tanks with both plastic and brass and the brass worked better. some plastic tips are larger and have trigger stops which would hang up on the pouch. adjusting slip for different films or glass is harder in a 3 or 5 gallon. a small air tank like for a paint ball gun with adjustable regulator will even out the pressure issues. working on a system with adjustable slip and air, having probs locating the parts to build into a P2.
  2. I never took door panels off or removed seals. my last apprentice started taking seals out without removing door panels on some cars and we started bottom loading the harder ones. many cars you can pull back on the top back of the panel and pull the sweep with a hooker (radiator hose removal tool) to reinstall, spray the door panel and sweep with a slippery slip solution and slide it in. I can't remember all the vehicles, but the fun ones include 15 malibus durango some wranglers patriot and i think liberty, focus hatch with the 2 inch tuck in front and old taurus. Most days, no clue what we tinted, limped all the way to the bank LOL Quality first!!! speed second. when my son worked for me we got the "dance" down to 30-35 min a car dollars per hour is the key to making money, price of film is nothing, saving another 5 min a car is everything!!!
  3. I have found it is easier to learn the torch method with 2 people. one tinting and another recording it on vid. It is hard to watch the film, your hand and the torch at the same time. You learn by watching your mistakes. I have taught many over the years. Take basketball, if you watch a pro, dribble between the legs, around the back into a lay up hook, they will struggle telling you how they did it. torching is so fast it has to become second nature to you. a proper torch leaves the glass much cooler compared to a heat gun. The glass is the heatsink that stops the shrinking process. The cutlas is the only car I have not done in one piece. after studying Ralphs vid, I think I know why and would love to try again.
  4. next time your at home depot or lowes, look up. T5 bulbs on the ceiling. I had 12 t12 in my 2 car garage and replaced them with 4 t5 and it alot brighter. cost was under 300
  5. Been a few, kinda semi-retired now, Baby powder does go bad, designed to absorb moisture and gets gooey. if you can see it on the window, your using to much. if glass is cold, hit the defrost to warm it or the moisture in the air will condensate on the window ruining the float. heat is attracted to cold, same reason your toilet gets condensation on the outside flushing it on a hot humid day. You are making the car harder then it actually is. in the pic you have 2 much film on the sides, cut to fit. a small finger on the side gets huge if you move it to the top or bottom to shrink. I only (used 2) cut the BG once and torch the crap out of it. horizontal line only, if you "H" it you can not shrink the 4 corners. after you place the film on your wet line, you can move the fingers top or bottom by pulling the edge top or down to even the shrink before you anchor it. with powder on a curvy window you start in the middle, top or bottom and overshrink pulling the fingers out of the corners making it easy on the hard part. when you get to the corners you can pull the side up or down to stretch the side eliminating any possible side fingers on install. squeegee middle down and work your way out when installing just like you shrank it and the middle up and work to corner. finger free means no wasting time doing touch ups after your done. buy a good heat gun!! or throw it out and get ts-8000 torch with map gas like I did. torch is faster and safer then heat guns. small torch lighter for touchups and you wont have to worry about burning moldings or door panels again. No ext cords is also a plus if your mobile. Buying an RV soon, think I might do some traveling, need help, will work for gas LOL 8MPG sucks
  6. So I have never seen a finger in a window, only in film. so why then do we shrink fingers? If we put film on the outside of a window and shrink it to fit, isn't the inside of the window smaller and a tighter curve? so why would we do that? Snaping, or overshrinking a little makes us stretch the film back out on the inside preventing a finger from popping up and sucking trash with it.
  7. inside curve on the window is tighter then the outside curve. the snap over shrinks the film so you have to stretch it to fit. no fingers to fight! same concept for BG's, add a little snap and no fingers pop up when hanging. I use powder and horizontal line for BG's and vette and express back doors. some vettes are pretty curved but I can shrink in 30sec. snap the top and not the bottom and you wont have peeling issues. will still have to stretch them which is what we wanted. quick + clean = $$$ I do not pull panels or use gasket shields and threw out the heat guns years ago
  8. To keep a sharp edge on you turbos or blue/clear max, put the sandpaper on a flat surface and keep squeegee perpendicular while sanding to restore sharp edge. laminated doors and thick rough defrost lines can gouge them quickly leaving streaks. I also designate ez-reach and tri=edge by color for specific task to reduce risk of scratching tint. Yellow tri-edge for flushing gaskets. Orange tri-edge for sealing edges only. Orange is harder and picks up less dirt reducing scratches and more heat resistant to my insane torching procedure. Shank for tucking film in sides and bottom(wonder tool) ez reach gray and gator for touchups. softer hard cards scratch film from dirt particles imbeding into the plastic when cleaning. Side note, I put my back window tools in a small wine holder or halloween bag. protects the edges and keeps all together getting in and out of cars. 50 cents at dollar stor nov 1st stock up or meijers and walmart in wine section.
  9. keeping employees can be challenging. yes some venture out and make it or fail and come back. as a "teacher" and by that I mean most shop owners, it should make you proud having a tech make it. Yes you lose an employee but have helped someone achieve a better life. some basics rules of business. say what your going to do,, do what you said you were going to do,, if it gets questioned, explain what you did All employees want to know, 'How am I doing? where am I going? Do I have a future here tell them weekly or monthly dress, act and work like the job you want, not the job you are in (old school rule) Prepare good loyal techs for the next level so they know the path.
  10. used them for fabric protection years back, p2 or 5 gallon better for tint
  11. just hired two partimers for $10/hr fresh out of high school. want to work for summer then off to college. bonus!
  12. been a P2 user for almost 30 years. I remove the trigger lock and lube the slide every month or so. 3 or 5 gallon tanks are great if you are stationary, I can't lift them anymore. The spray tip goes bad in a few months. I prefer the fine mist for hanging. Most professionals buy good tools, I would question a mechanic that hand walmart tools. good tools last longer then cheap crap.
  13. Lots of questions, hope this helps a little. Hire for their attitude, you can train them half of the tint is cleaning and prep, then clean up the mess. preppers are cheap, if they catch on, pay them market value. best choices, high school grad, got girl friend preg, needs the job to pay the bills and support family. training, takes a day or two to train some one to clean and prep, takes a year to make a great tinter. employees are like children, first 30 days or so are great. then test the boundaries. 30-60 come in a little late, little late back from lunch. got to slap their hand before it gets out of control. why do you think most places wait 90 days for benefits. I used to hire one tinter a year, in a year they were ready to solo. yes many never made more then 90 days. 40% is the going rate here for a good tinter. to get that rate completes have to be under 2 hours. with an assistant we averaged an hour. if they became a tinter we flipped cars in 35 to 45 min. think of the dollars per hour they can generate compared to what it cost to have the bay. if you get them for 30% and it takes 4 hours to do a car it will put you out of biz.
  14. VW bug challenge, I have seen the BG shrunk and installed in under 4min with heat guns. some films shrink faster and more then others. my film could never compete. torching is faster and safer then heat guns and consistent heat. with my snap on or mac I can do a 300 in 2 min or 40 sec with torch. 15 charger 2 min with torch or 10 with heat gun 1/2 inch off film. the torch saves 15min per car average reducing install time to 45min average with assistant. this lets me add one more car a day netting me an additional 15/hr. (mobile subcontractor) have to think fast and know your films limits torching and with a little practice you might get a raise yourself.
  15. 12v 180watt, might blow most acc jacks. so I put alligator clips on the ends to hook straight to battery. I also carry a 1200 amp jump box to power it or jump a car if the batt dies. 18,000 lumens, ok maybe a little overkill but I can see.