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Tintguy1980 last won the day on January 3

Tintguy1980 had the most liked content!


About Tintguy1980

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  1. Tintguy1980

    Possible Fraud?

    All LLumar Automotive products have >99% UV rejection up to 380nm. Glass itself screens virtually all of the UVB. Adding window film screens UVA and the remainder of UVB. UV rejection % drops somewhere around 21 points by the time you get to 399nm. A car's windscreen and SUV privacy glass reduces UV up to 95% and again, adding film boosts UV screening performance values. What many don't know or pass on when buying for the purpose you have stated, is that for those who do have serious UV sensitivity need replace the product every 3-5 years to maintain maximum protective performance from the applied film. Every 3 years in sunny climates and 5 years in moderately sunny climates. As to verifying the product is the brand you requested, other's here have given good insight. You can also look for a window tint dealership in your area that owns a EDTM SS2450 meter. This meter can verify the product and glass are in fact reducing the UV to 0-!%. Although, it will require a more sensitive meter to break down nanometer %'s; meters usually specifically designed for and available for sale to UV sufferers.
  2. Tintguy1980

    Applying a sealant for security film

    If the glass is annealed it'll break into large shards allowing the film's adhesive to hold on to more surface area while the shards bite into the frame makes it much more difficult to penetrate or push out the entire sheet. Tempered glass breaks into small beads, which have less effective edge bit and thereby allowing the entire sheet to fall in easier when forced. This is where it is more critical to have a bead of sealant attaching the film/glass combination to the frame. 8mil will not stop entry however, it will dramatically reduce entry time to the extent it may well discourage a perpetrator. It's more dependent upon how big a stick they care if, you get my drift.
  3. Tintguy1980

    Not tucking film anymore

    When I started tinting in 1980 tucking was unheard of. Fast forward to today and I've come full circle; I don't tuck anymore.
  4. Tintguy1980

    Influx of installers in the industry?

    Combination of an industry's aggressive training programs, old timers retiring, glass performance improving and a saturated market.
  5. Tintguy1980

    1979 Corvette

    I believe this model doesn't have the flip up BG. I found it best to work the BG on my back; folding the passenger seat back and placing filler to have a flatter surface to lay on while working.
  6. Similar technology exists in home HVAC systems. I believe the thread title is misleading and or erroneous, Sis.
  7. Tintguy1980

    Wierd rainbow streaks

    Core (tape) impressions and rainbow streaks are two different issues. Rainbow streaks are more likely from a phenomenon known as thin-film interference. In the case of window film it is produced by light traveling through the scratch coat and what reflects off the film surface gets split into different colors. As stated, florescent lighting causes the maximum amount and all other light sources usually display this on a much lesser scale. Tempered glass will also contribute to this phenomenon once film is applied to automotive glass. This thin-film interference rainbow effect can be seen in architectural films real well after dark with inside florescent lighting. To minimize the phenomenon when using architectural films on building glass, the use of LED is recommended. You can look at the reflection of a set of (untinted) sliding doors off the glass of a picture hanging on the wall and when the light angle of view is right, you will see a rainbow pattern on the tempered glass of the sliders. Google 'thin-film interference' and read up.
  8. Tintguy1980

    Am I tripping?

    ~ The speckled look in the back glass, between defroster lines can be attributed to air-borne contaminants. Some are better than others in avoiding these. The black border lift is natural since film generally does not flex well enough to eliminate that type appearance (similar to laying a sheet of paper over the edge of another sheet. It creates an air tunnel at the overlap point where its unable to touch the surface). The dots do the same. The thickness of the material comprising each dot leads to suspending the film over the glass areas between each dot. The dash line close to the bottom of the window in the one picture may be from a minor crease in the material during installation and may come out with a simple touch up. If not, it's a redo.
  9. Tintguy1980

    Tint Concern

    Yes, those bumps around the glass ID marker is contamination and needs be redone. If the scratch is consistent and running in the same direction of the film fit to the glass it is installed on, chances are pretty good it came from the razor knife used to cut the film to shape before the install; if they used a knife and not a plotter cut pattern These are things better dealt with by return visit to the installing shop.
  10. Tintguy1980

    Llumar curling

  11. Tintguy1980

    Llumar curling

  12. Tintguy1980

    Thoughts on a local film company film

    Good luck.
  13. Tintguy1980

    Thoughts on a local film company film

    Not harder to apply however, you will see a difference in heat forming. Straight dyed film shrink faster.
  14. Tintguy1980

    Thoughts on a local film company film

    SolarFX is another solid film brand to go with.😁