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Everything posted by Tintguy1980

  1. Safety and security films perform better on annealed glass. You can always go to Youtube and look up blast mitigation videos of safety and security films on both annealed and tempered glass. They show performance or the lack thereof with an attachment and without. These viewings will give insight into the force needed to get through. HOWEVER, these viewings do not necessarily apply to home invasion use of this film product. The bare minimum for home invasion is and 8 mil product. Attachment is most necessary on tempered glass since it breaks into small beads when impacted and can then be worked at its edge to the point of penetration and access. Annealed glass, however, breaks into large shards that will retain a greater edge-bite strength than tempered panes well into the frame (dependent upon edge-bite or how deep into the frame the glass seats). Annealed glass breaking in large shards allows the film's adhesive to have larger surface areas to maintain bond integrity. Annealed glass is also more likely to cut the perpetrator attempting to penetrate the film/glass, leaving DNA samples for forensic use. It is a statistical fact that thieves need penetrate a barrier in less than 10 seconds or they will give up and move onto a softer target. No installation firm would guarantee theft-free scenario due to variables beyond their control (e.g. backing their truck through the sliding doors or being equipped with a slug hammer (that didn't bounce back and knock the idiot out on the first blow ... two extremes here). Building a new home? Have the windows placed higher, requiring ladder or step stools to access them and have SS film applied. This makes it even more difficult to get through. Also, keep in mind that the film will create a similar, but weaker, barrier in terms of needing to get out of the dwelling when there's a fire inside. Good luck.
  2. Yes ... especially when installing the anchor system too soon. Minimum 7-14 days dry time should be sufficient before installing the anchor system (dependent upon film thickness) .
  3. Tintguy1980

    Real world performance on Huper C40

    Yeah, I can see the loss point of bragging rights when one only has 1/8th inch compared to an inch.
  4. Tintguy1980

    Real world performance on Huper C40

    Tom explained it in a simple fashion. However, it is more complex than what is seen through simple experimentation. In other words, as long as the car is in motion you will benefit from a film's heat control aspect. When tested, all mannies utilize the same means of extracting the TSER of their film product. The published performance of film products are calculated using a wind speed across the glass of 7mph. Obviously, the faster the vehicle moves, the high the TSER because more absorbed energy is carried away and less will radiate inward to the cabin. As stated before, 'ceramic' technology in window film relies mostly on absorption, which requires the glass be cooled by wind across its surface. This absorption will allow you to feel what might be radiating off film and glass while driving the car with the AC running. The one film out there that 'reflects' near infrared (NIR) energy is 3M's Crystalline. Near infrared is the part of the sun's energy that we 'feel' in the immediate when sitting on the protected side of a glass/film barrier. This is because it (NIR) penetrates deeper into the skin, warming moisture surrounding nerve endings and leading the brain to say, warm/hot. Crystalline reflects a very large percentage of NIR (88-97%) in the most intense region of NIR (780- roughly 1200 nanometers). The entire NIR region of the solar spectrum encompasses 780-2500 nanometers. NIR accounts for approximately 48+% of the sun's energy and visible light (VL) accounts for 49+%, leaving the remaining to ultraviolet (UV). Visible light and UV will create heat once it strikes a surface (such as skin) and is 'felt' at a much slower rate compared with NIR. So, it's down to absorption versus reflection and it should be seen a slightly higher TSER values.
  5. Tintguy1980

    Possible Fraud?

    All LLumar Automotive products have >99% UV rejection up to 380nm. Glass itself screens virtually all of the UVB. Adding window film screens UVA and the remainder of UVB. UV rejection % drops somewhere around 21 points by the time you get to 399nm. A car's windscreen and SUV privacy glass reduces UV up to 95% and again, adding film boosts UV screening performance values. What many don't know or pass on when buying for the purpose you have stated, is that for those who do have serious UV sensitivity need replace the product every 3-5 years to maintain maximum protective performance from the applied film. Every 3 years in sunny climates and 5 years in moderately sunny climates. As to verifying the product is the brand you requested, other's here have given good insight. You can also look for a window tint dealership in your area that owns a EDTM SS2450 meter. This meter can verify the product and glass are in fact reducing the UV to 0-!%. Although, it will require a more sensitive meter to break down nanometer %'s; meters usually specifically designed for and available for sale to UV sufferers.
  6. Tintguy1980

    Applying a sealant for security film

    If the glass is annealed it'll break into large shards allowing the film's adhesive to hold on to more surface area while the shards bite into the frame makes it much more difficult to penetrate or push out the entire sheet. Tempered glass breaks into small beads, which have less effective edge bit and thereby allowing the entire sheet to fall in easier when forced. This is where it is more critical to have a bead of sealant attaching the film/glass combination to the frame. 8mil will not stop entry however, it will dramatically reduce entry time to the extent it may well discourage a perpetrator. It's more dependent upon how big a stick they care if, you get my drift.
  7. Tintguy1980

    Not tucking film anymore

    When I started tinting in 1980 tucking was unheard of. Fast forward to today and I've come full circle; I don't tuck anymore.
  8. Tintguy1980

    Influx of installers in the industry?

    Combination of an industry's aggressive training programs, old timers retiring, glass performance improving and a saturated market.
  9. Tintguy1980

    1979 Corvette

    I believe this model doesn't have the flip up BG. I found it best to work the BG on my back; folding the passenger seat back and placing filler to have a flatter surface to lay on while working.
  10. Similar technology exists in home HVAC systems. I believe the thread title is misleading and or erroneous, Sis.
  11. Tintguy1980

    Wierd rainbow streaks

    Core (tape) impressions and rainbow streaks are two different issues. Rainbow streaks are more likely from a phenomenon known as thin-film interference. In the case of window film it is produced by light traveling through the scratch coat and what reflects off the film surface gets split into different colors. As stated, florescent lighting causes the maximum amount and all other light sources usually display this on a much lesser scale. Tempered glass will also contribute to this phenomenon once film is applied to automotive glass. This thin-film interference rainbow effect can be seen in architectural films real well after dark with inside florescent lighting. To minimize the phenomenon when using architectural films on building glass, the use of LED is recommended. You can look at the reflection of a set of (untinted) sliding doors off the glass of a picture hanging on the wall and when the light angle of view is right, you will see a rainbow pattern on the tempered glass of the sliders. Google 'thin-film interference' and read up.
  12. Tintguy1980

    Am I tripping?

    ~ The speckled look in the back glass, between defroster lines can be attributed to air-borne contaminants. Some are better than others in avoiding these. The black border lift is natural since film generally does not flex well enough to eliminate that type appearance (similar to laying a sheet of paper over the edge of another sheet. It creates an air tunnel at the overlap point where its unable to touch the surface). The dots do the same. The thickness of the material comprising each dot leads to suspending the film over the glass areas between each dot. The dash line close to the bottom of the window in the one picture may be from a minor crease in the material during installation and may come out with a simple touch up. If not, it's a redo.
  13. Tintguy1980

    Tint Concern

    Yes, those bumps around the glass ID marker is contamination and needs be redone. If the scratch is consistent and running in the same direction of the film fit to the glass it is installed on, chances are pretty good it came from the razor knife used to cut the film to shape before the install; if they used a knife and not a plotter cut pattern These are things better dealt with by return visit to the installing shop.
  14. Tintguy1980

    Llumar curling

  15. Tintguy1980

    Llumar curling

  16. Tintguy1980

    Thoughts on a local film company film

    Good luck.
  17. Tintguy1980

    Thoughts on a local film company film

    Not harder to apply however, you will see a difference in heat forming. Straight dyed film shrink faster.
  18. Tintguy1980

    Thoughts on a local film company film

    SolarFX is another solid film brand to go with.😁
  19. Tintguy1980

    Need new tint !!!!

    PMX Coatings (UK) Ltd. 36 Mitchell Point, Ensign Way, Southampton, Hampshire SO31 4RF, United Kingdom Tel : NA Web : http://www.pmxcoatings.co.uk/ Email : justin@pmxcoatings.co.uk
  20. Tintguy1980

    Thoughts on a local film company film

    If those are the two you have as alternates, may I suggest Solar Gard over ST.
  21. Tintguy1980

    Thoughts on a local film company film

    As I do far too often ... a quick glance and I thought metint was resurrected (only old time members will get this). Any tint shop reselling film without a distributor agreement with the mfr'er of the film product, voids the mannies warranty and thereby becomes solely responsible for any warranty given to the buyer (another tinter or shop) and likewise for the consumer.
  22. Tintguy1980

    AS-1 Line Expert Needed

    Old thread but, I'll bite. AS system is used to identify the federal testing standard the glass meets. I believe there are about 13 standards to which you rarely if at all would see above AS-3 on passenger vehicles. The location of AS-1 on a windscreen has more to do with marking critical viewing area than being in alignment with the rear glass. The area below AS-1 is considered critical viewing area.
  23. Tintguy1980

    # Jessica's Law

    Karma bit me last month when I only half azz got the snow off my car's roof. The remainder slid off onto a hot windshield (from basking in the sun before driving) and the glass snapped from thermal shock. $300 lazy azz mistake.😬