Jump to content

driggett

 >10
  • Content count

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About driggett

  • Rank
    New Member

Recent Profile Visitors

1,105 profile views
  1. I do not need to paint the vehicle just get all the swirls and dealer marks from it.
  2. I will be getting XPEL ultimate for my new car and will be using this car for autocross and the occasional track day. Before I get the full frontal of the car PPFed I will send it to the detailer's to get perfect paint. What I was wondering is should I get the paint under the PPF ceramic coated or not? Thanks, Chris
  3. I heard from the xpel installer today and their price is 2000. Boy the price difference is significant.
  4. Thanks for the reply! So even if I get a PPF then I should apply one of the temporary PPFs like xpel tracwrap to help protect the car and the PPF. I know this might be hard to answer but if a car is left out in the NorCal sun all the time, no garages and it is a DD, how long realistically does a PPF look good enough to keep on the car? Now I keep my car pretty clean by doing a waterless wash once every week and a Rinseless wash once a month. Thanks, Chris
  5. I am debating on whether or not to get a PPF. I am looking at the Suntek PPF-c and the clear guard nano. I have quotes for excellent shops for 1750 for the Suntek and 2600 for the clearguard nano. These prices are for the entire front end, whole hood and mirrors. I have seen on this forum that one should redo the PPF every 5 years or so. If this is correct then the cost per year is roughly 360/520 for the PPF. If I enjoy complete detailing my own car every 6 months and I use the dr color chip or other road rash kits then the material costs are roughly $50 per year plus my time. My question then is a PPF worth the 10x cost? I have/will track my car and have found these items as a temporary PPF. Trakk tape and xpel tracwrap. How does PPF stand up to tracking? Thanks in advance for the help. Cheers, Chris
  6. IRR VS TSER PUT TO REST! ( auto)

    I would like to chime in here as a consumer of tint. I have a BMW 2014 335i. I would roast and burn in my car when the sun was at the correct angle. The back of my neck would sweat no matter what setting I had on the AC. The sun rays would cook me. I did not have this effect in my 2003 my Honda Pilot. Since getting my car tinted I no longer roast. I still feel the heat but at a greatly reduced rate. When I use FLIR on my iPhone to measure the heat on my seats the temp was reduced by 25%. I have black leather interior. I can sit in my car with out AC and the windows rolled up for a lot longer now before it gets too hot. One of the questions I asked the tinters was what is the reduction in roasting effect. So what ever number the industry uses it needs to be translatable to effects the customer can understand like comfort and roasting factors. I have enjoyed this forum ever since I found it looking for that perfect tint for my needs and car. Keep up the good work! Cheers, Chris
×