CnCCustoms

Go with the xpel! You can look at suntek wrong and scratch the hell out of it. I’m excessively rough on film and have never scratched xpel films! Heat rejection is great for a color stable dyed film. And personally the xpel takes way more abuse shrinking it that the suntek!

From my experience 7 years ago it’s definitely not llumar. And even their highest “lifetime color stable” films fail and turn purple and adhesive fails in 3-5 years

Black pearl lineup is junk. Couple years with it. Nothing but failures! At least here in Georgia which is even more sad because they’re in Georgia as well

So far so good with it. Aggressive adhesive for me. Sometimes too aggressive lol. Certain vlts have a very blue hue to them that some mind some don’t. I mainly use the xr60blue for windshields and I absolutely love the film. Nothing compares in the heat rejection department. Like any other film take the good with the bad but overall great company and great film (if you hand cut) lol @jh812

Can’t speak for the llumar. But run from the suntek for sure. Too many issues. Then there’s the xpel... which I have nothing but good things to say. We use global but have sampled plenty of the xpel and it handles the same. Installs the same. Shrinks the same. BUT the xpel has the most aggressive adhesive I’ve ever seen. Screw brand recognition 99% of our customers don’t know nor care what film we use.

Our bay isn’t climate controlled. This summer I saw as High as 120 degrees in the shop. Past winter it was so cold that bottles of slip froze over night and actually had a beetle on day water froze between the glass and the film before I could squeegee it out. Film always stored laying flat. And I’ve got some bs rolls that I know are 10 years old. Wouldn’t worry!

I took @jh812 advice a while back and actually switch my whole shop over to global. Hated the ceramic line with my previous manny because of haze. So I never sold it. Since picking up global MAN! 60% of film sales is ceramic. Can’t go wrong with global.

Reverse roll everything here. With no to little contamination every time.... sounds crazy but after you shrink and prep inside. We use dollar tree windshield squeegees to wipe the liner off. Spray the liner side. Pick the corner. Spray as your peeling he liner half way. Spray film. Use one hands to wipe the liner back onto the film from middle outward. Repeat on the opposite side BUT DONT PULL THE LINER ALL THE WAY TO THE OTHER STOPPING POINT. Leave about 1” spray and wipe from that line outward. Spray outside of the entire liner. Roll it up doesn’t matter if it is pencil tight or broom handle loose honestly. Leave a few inches u rolled and the liner will be a hair long than that. Pull liner back. Rack down a few inches of film. Unroll while sliding your other hand along to lay it down as you go. Squeegee and done.

Still wouldn’t work. They’d want medium-dark. Or dedium lol. If I get another customer ask for 9% I’m gonna come unglued! At least a dozen kids lately want 9%. Sorry. 5 10 20 30 35 50. That’s it

All lifetime warranty. NO ECONOMY FILMS! Draws in cheap asses and pisses higher end customers off. Dyed HP ceramic and we sell 60% ceramic consecutively

In my area for deep dyed film you’re looking at anywhere from $200-$250. Hp add $75. Ceramic would be $375-$500. We only do ceramic on windshields and it’s $150 flat fee under 40”

Varies from region to region. Also what is the year make and model of the vehicle. What all are you wanting tinted on it. And then a lot of ringers have a good better best tier. So. Do you want economy job? Deep dyed? HP? Carbon? Ceramic? Also completely depends on the film the installer uses. The guy that uses tint club is gonna be significantly cheaper than the guy that uses llumar or 3m. So many variables there

You’ll be able to tell if it’s crystalline

One other thing. Don’t be swayed by computer cut.... a lot of the software is rough especially on top edges. An experienced tinter can hand cut better than any plotter by adapting to each individual vehicle