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About ErieTint

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  • Location
    Cedar Point Ohio
  • Country
    United States
  1. 2007 - 2013 Chevrolet Silverado

    I'm not a fan of the top load method if I can avoid it. Some times it makes sense, these door panels are simple enough to remove though. I should have the truck for the day so popping the doors open and bottom loading is fine with me. Less chance of me putting a crease in it too.
  2. 2007 - 2013 Chevrolet Silverado

    Oh, yay. I own an '06 Sierra and want to do the windshield.... Guess I will be pulling these panels in the morning. I like the '14 and ups where the tops just snap back and you can grab the sweep.
  3. 2007 - 2013 Chevrolet Silverado

    Any directions here for bottom sweep removal? I have done a couple 14+ Silverado/Sierra trucks but not an 07-13 yet. Watched a video on YouTube that looks like I may be able to pull the one 10mm behind the door grab and pull the top back enough to steal the sweep. Is this the case? What about the back doors on a Crew Cab model? Hoping those are the same. I like pulling seals but don't like taking full panels off if I don't have to. This customer wants to do the windshield too. Looks like they may be a pain to shrink. What about computers or stuff on the firewall? Am I ok with some water down there, within reason of course...
  4. getting a new plotter and software

    I have a Graphtec plotter and use Precision Cut from LLumar for software. So far, I have been fairly pleased.
  5. Door panels on honda crv 2017 is it just one screw?

    Nothing better than bottom loading!
  6. Dirt and marks in film

    Well said @jh812. We all make mistakes and have issues from time to time. It's how you handle those issues that show off your true value.
  7. Storing slip solution

    I am a LLumar installer so I buy it directly through them.
  8. Storing slip solution

    I use a PolySpray2, FilmOn and distilled water for my slip. My bottle will sit for a couple days at times. I have yet to notice any major issues.
  9. Gloves

    Thanks @jh812!
  10. Gloves

    I am thinking of starting to wear them when taking panels apart and seals out. I notice that my hands get really dirty depending on the car and that could translate to the film. Wouldn't hurt in disassembly, prep or reassembly phases. During install though, think thats a no go.
  11. Gloves

    I'm with @jh812. I only wear a white cotton glove for shrinking rear glass. I had the same thought as you but wondered if they would stick if you touch the adhesive side where your fingers would slip. (I know, I know, no one ever touches the adhesive...)
  12. Tinting over factory tinted glass

    Its (almost) as simple as the math with this. Things aren't 100% accurate because, as we all know, our film and factory glass isn't 100% accurate either. Most factory glass that is tinted is somewhere between 18% and 25% with a variance as high as +/- 5% depending on the manufacturer. So if you take a piece of 18% factory glass and throw 50% over top, that will leave you around 9% installed. (18% x .50 = 9%) Same example, if you take a piece of 18% factory glass and throw 15% over top that will leave you closer to 3% installed.
  13. Pricing Structure

    I wouldn't give them a break down of it, I would just quote them total price. Say a front only install is $100 and front removal is $45, I would tell them $45 for removal or $125 if they are getting new tint. At least, that was my thought process so far....
  14. Pricing Structure

    That's kind of the hard part @drtint... There isn't any local competition. The hard number to come up with a price for is removal. I would be willing to discount it when paying for a reinstall but I want to have something hard in writing even if they aren't asking for new tint.
  15. Pricing Structure

    Got this working on another machine with a different browser. Thanks!