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Speed last won the day on September 11 2014

Speed had the most liked content!

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  1. Speed

    Wax before installing XPEL

    Putting film on a waxed car makes it easier to squeegee out bubbles, easier to lift the film for debris, and removal years later is much easier...especially full hoods. Just don't put wax in the door cups or areas where stretched film has to drop down like the hood scoops on a Mustang.
  2. Acura TSX so it was a hard textured plastic.
  3. I put some vinyl on my doors and just replaced them after about 6 years and it didn't leave any crap on my door
  4. Speed

    Alfa Romeo 4C

    True that blackoutauto, but this damage was far from the impact area. Jagman, its a beautiful car and I understand your wanting to protect it. If it were mine, I'd put several coats of wax down first before application of the film and use as little tack solution as possible during the install.
  5. Speed

    Alfa Romeo 4C

    Italian paint is pretty weak. We did one of those Alfas with Suntek (least aggressive adhesive of all leading brands) and when the customer damaged the film on the bumper, the clearcoat separated from the paint during removal leaving a big white bubble.
  6. Sometimes I remove the tow hook but that's all. I only bulk if there isn't any pattern available. Taking cars apart and putting them back together correctly takes too much time IMO.
  7. Film hides swirl marks so paint correction isn't needed, save that for the removal. I've only had maybe 2 cars out of the last 18 years I couldn't get the film to stick to, and I prefer them to be waxed. Its much easier to squeegee over a waxed surface and I like to use a lot of baby shamoo, especially on dark colors. Try easing up on the alcohol in your tack solution, maybe only 10% of 70% iso. More alcohol doesn't mean more stick. 100% water is better at tacking than a 50/50 mix, you'll burn the adhesive.
  8. I don't know why anyone, that cares enough about their car to film it, would run though an automated car wash....ever. I guess its better than having someone use a sidewalk cleaning machine like a pressure washer on it. It doesn't matter how old the install either with those things, the last picture is an 04 Boxster and the damage happened Thursday.
  9. Speed

    18 Ferrari 488 spider

    The last Ferrari I pulled paint on was a "gently used" F430 with 2800 track miles. Acquired from out of state, the dealership asked me to remove the beat up film and sure enough a little of the clear came off above the windshield. No big deal I figured, happens far too frequently on these things. Well no big deal until the new manager called me in his office wanting $5000 for the repaint and $30,000 diminished value. Its not worth the risk as far as my business is concerned, anyone with enough coin to buy one of those things has a better lawyer than I do.
  10. Speed

    18 Ferrari 488 spider

    I wouldn't touch the Ferrari. Weakest paint and chances it will pull up when removed. Also, with Ferrari rolling back odometers on their cars, rock chips would be a way to discourage them from rolling it back, hence preserving resale.... ironic huh? The GT2 has no badge, its a sticker like the GT3RS.
  11. Speed

    ppf film 70 inches

    What customers want and what they get are sometimes quite different. Ask your customer if he would rather have a clean install with a few barely noticable seams or huge stretch marks and distortions in the film with no seam. Tell him you would be happy to offer the clean install but if he wants no seam, let him go elsewhere and become someone else's nightmare.
  12. Has anyone here that paid for a professional training class ever been shown how to remove the film? Removals start with the initial install. Most installers are so afraid the film will lift they strip off all the wax or polish on the car so the adhesive will bite, or they may only use "the recommended" few drops of baby shampoo in their slip solution. I've seen installs where ProBond was used in an inch wide smear around every edge. Removing installs that have been hammered down nearly always result in hundreds of micro scratches or worse from picking at the edges with fingernails or scrubbing off fossilized adhesive. You want the film to slide off the car until pressure is applied and then feel the adhesive stick, ESPECIALLY on full panels like hoods and roofs. The true perfect install is one that can easily be removed years later without damaging the clear coat finish on top of that paint.
  13. Ingredients? 100% CMA, been using it for years and my customers love it. I keep a record of the ones that buy it from me when their initial bottle runs out. Those people still have nice clean film, the others have voided their warranty due to neglect. It basically gives any film a slicker coating. Even improves the new hydro coated films. Last year a 3M rep came by bragging how slick the new film was and even he was amazed how much slicker it made his film. He asked for some which I said no, after all, it was a product I sourced out through much trial and error, not them. For years I begged film manufacturers for some kind of product like this to no avail. Tell your reps time to step up and come up with their own stuff. Wash and wax as normal is not the correct way to care for film.
  14. Take a look at the cap on your wax bottles. Its all yellow and caked. Hey I have a great idea, lets put this on the film so it won't yellow . Ask your film manufacturer for a product you can sell and marry its use to your warranty. I give everyone a bottle of this along with care instructions that instruct the customer to use this after every wash to maintain the film AND its warranty.