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Guest MAGIC2006

huper optik window films

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Guest Litespeeds

Thanks Mike for answering all the techinical questions. You have been a real big help to all of us. :thumb

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Guest TINTFXold

yeah, thanks for stepping up to the plate and helping out. We get soooo many film reps that lurk and once a year fire off an email telling us how we should do things around here but never have any info for our members :thumb imagine that, hiding in the bushes.... :lo

thanks again.....

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Guest metint
Oily appearance hasn't gone out of mine (7 months old now) but this is not an observation only akin to Huper Optik. All manufacturers seem to have it also under the right

The oily stain commonly seen under flouresent light is primarily due to the hardcoat thickness being in the range of the VL wavelengths, thus causing an interference-related color shift.

this interference causes some wavelengths of light to be enhanced and some to be canceled out, hence light that is reflected from the film surface is no longer white (invisible) light as some colours that constitue to the spectrum that makes up white light is not present. the rainbow effect is the result of the colours that have been enhanced.

this phenomenon (I am not sure if its anything that technical!!) is rarely visible under natural light, as sunlight has a broader spectrum and higher density. Artificial light sources, esp sodium lamps with its narrower spectrum will make this more prominent.

More importantly, iridesence DOES NOT interfere with the films' performance.

see attached diagram (pardon the poor drawing!)

Precisely HO... great laymen's way of describing what is contained on the following web site.

http://buphy.bu.edu/py106/notes/Thinfilm.html

Edited by metint

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Guest S and S
Huper what? :thumb

Oh yeah, I'm a 3M guy, that's why I don't get it :shock

this we knew :thumb :thumb :eyebrows

:thumb

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Guest tintman72

As to the heat shaping difficulties of the Huper lines, I have been using the ceramic series films for about a year now and have discovered that if you apply too much heat on one area at one time then that is when ghosting occurs. I usually move the heat gun around alot and create pockets to heat out. If the film gets too hot I will then go to the other side of the film and heat it out then I'll come back to that side side and finish it up.

It took a little time and some trial and error but know I don't have any trouble heat shaping it at all. My distr. has a spray that I use to shpe it and it makes life a little easier. I do alot of work for a Mitsubishi dealership and even on the Eclipse I don't have any problems with ghosting.

May be it is something in the air.

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Guest H?perOptik
Thanks HO for the information.  I'm going to Vegas, will you be there too?

very likely I'll be there unless something crops up at the last minute :hmmm

the slots are waiting for me :lol6 cya then!

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Guest H?perOptik
As to the heat shaping difficulties of the Huper lines, I have been using the ceramic series films for about a year now and have discovered that if you apply too much heat on one area at one time then that is when ghosting occurs.  I usually move the heat gun around alot and create pockets to heat out.  If the film gets too hot I will then go to the other side of the film and heat it out then I'll come back to that side side and finish it up.

It took a little time and some trial and error but know I don't have any trouble heat shaping it at all.  My distr.  has a spray that I use to shpe it and it makes life a little easier.  I do alot of work for a Mitsubishi dealership and even on the Eclipse I don't have any problems with ghosting.

May be it is something in the air.

:lol6

take it easy on the shrinking... low heat, more passes. this will minimise on the ghosting. it will take more time to complete the install, but the margins make up the time spent :hmmm rush jobs are seldom good anyways :lol6

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