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Xpel

suntekfilms.com

armolanusa.com

tintwiz.com

Patterns.3M
mannyj

Opinion on these scratches after getting window tinted

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Most of the scratches are at or near a corner. For the bg & 1/4s I’ll snap a blade off to trim each straight side and then snap before the corners or curvy areas after. Never start trimming in a curve or corner and snap after pulling blade away from glass. Also, keep knife low using minimal pressure or just get a damn peel board. 

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The scratches at the corner should be able to be felt with your fingernail.  The scratches on the side, if you can’t feel them with your nail on the outside, then they were done by trimming with a blade on the inside and the blade has scratched the black fritt on the inside of the glass.  

 

All of this was done by the tinter, in my opinion.  

Edited by Bham

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2 hours ago, Stewy said:

This all could of been avoided if he used a marker.... thats just the bg and quarters. I bet he cut the roll downs as well.

Either that or throw a damn button or piece of plastic strap underneath the tip of the blade so it doesn't touch the glass. I use a chunk of hdpe cut from a film core end cap and it works like a charm.

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Can they be polished with a detail buffer. Ive seen them polish glass with a compound before not sure if the scratches would come out. Just a thought. 

Edited by Bubbles

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58 minutes ago, Bubbles said:

Can they be polished with a detail buffer. Ive seen them polish glass with a compound before not sure if the scratches would come out. Just a thought. 

Typically speaking if the scratch is deep enough to feel with your fingernail it's too deep to polish out. Those type of scratches are going to be too deep in my experience. 

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On 12/30/2018 at 2:29 PM, pbalentine said:

Most of the scratches are at or near a corner. For the bg & 1/4s I’ll snap a blade off to trim each straight side and then snap before the corners or curvy areas after. Never start trimming in a curve or corner and snap after pulling blade away from glass. Also, keep knife low using minimal pressure or just get a damn peel board. 

:yeah

On 12/30/2018 at 6:46 PM, highplains said:

Either that or throw a damn button or piece of plastic strap underneath the tip of the blade so it doesn't touch the glass. I use a chunk of hdpe cut from a film core end cap and it works like a charm.

:yeah

On 12/31/2018 at 2:24 AM, highplains said:

Typically speaking if the scratch is deep enough to feel with your fingernail it's too deep to polish out. Those type of scratches are going to be too deep in my experience. 

:yeah

I always went through 2 or more SS blades per car, that gives you an idea of how often I snapped (the blade).

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On ‎12‎/‎30‎/‎2018 at 1:26 PM, Stewy said:

This all could of been avoided if he used a marker.... thats just the bg and quarters. I bet he cut the roll downs as well.

 

This is the perfect example why  you should never cut on the glass on a customers car.  All the glass that is cut has to be replaced.   Glass has gotten softer and softer over the years.  I noticed glass  really starting to change back in 2004.  Since then I have gotten completely away from cutting on the car.  I use a sharpie if I have to free hand a car.  Xpel's DAP tint patterns are my tint patterns of choice.  I cant say enough about how well the patterns fit.  

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The tinter is just inexperience in cutting. Over time you learn to snap the blade more and cut at lower angles. Most of all the amount of pressure it takes to make the cut. Later on in my career I started to use a button and markers but mostly I’ll scored the film. Especially on the backglass and quarters. Then I’ll tear the film away or finish it on the peeler. Now that I’m using a plotter I’m even more scared to cut on the glass. It’s because if you’re not cutting it on glass you’ll lose the feel for it. When I have to cut on glass it’s always a new blade and with enough pressure to just score the film. Man I really hate it when I don’t have a pattern in my database. 

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