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TintDude

The Chat Thread

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I may need to come shadow with you I've got an estimate in on one right now. 

Easiest way to do it for me is having the main floor evacuation plan which is a basic floor plan on hand when you get ready to quote and do the job it self. It can get confusing when you have just a list of windows and their descriptions on where they at versus your view of it. Are you going to caulk it yourself or you contracting it out?

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1 hour ago, Tintmaster08 said:


Easiest way to do it for me is having the main floor evacuation plan which is a basic floor plan on hand when you get ready to quote and do the job it self. It can get confusing when you have just a list of windows and their descriptions on where they at versus your view of it. Are you going to caulk it yourself or you contracting it out?

Planning on doing it myself with the help of @Tint Eastwood all the windows I've looked at no issues there. Just going to be first time installing it. 

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Planning on doing it myself with the help of [mention=28811]Tint Eastwood[/mention] all the windows I've looked at no issues there. Just going to be first time installing it. 

The way I do it and have learned it to be easier is you want a gap no wider than your olfa knife, you don’t have to be exact with your cuts, but you want to be close. If your gonna caulk it yourself having that small of a gap all the way around it makes it easier. We install film one day and caulk the next, and I always keep my caulk on ice the day before and day of caulking it. Cold caulk is way easier to install than warm or hot, it doesn’t make as big of a mess.

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Morning ever E body  :hat  

 

Just got a little freaked out by a car seat.  It was a Wonder Woman upright booster style seat that had the complete image of Wonder Woman on the front of the car seat.  It even had a hand around the cupholder that looked real.  Anyway, I didn't notice it pulling it in, but as I am moving around to the passenger side door I glance in the back and see the real looking had around the cup holder and thought these people had left a kid asleep in the car seat.  Sorta freaked me out a little and if anyone could have seen my reaction,,,,,, well,,,,, :lol2 

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9 minutes ago, Tintmaster08 said:


The way I do it and have learned it to be easier is you want a gap no wider than your olfa knife, you don’t have to be exact with your cuts, but you want to be close. If your gonna caulk it yourself having that small of a gap all the way around it makes it easier. We install film one day and caulk the next, and I always keep my caulk on ice the day before and day of caulking it. Cold caulk is way easier to install than warm or hot, it doesn’t make as big of a mess.

For the entry doors do you do those the same way?

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For the entry doors do you do those the same way?

Definitely on the entry doors, getting behind those panic bars are tricky if you don’t remove it. I’ve seen some caulk jobs with those that had a bead around it everywhere but not the 2 inches or so behind those. Are you going to be using a film Handler?

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:yeah  I always remove panic bars.

 

On a few jobs I’ve even removed the trim piece that holds the glass and filmed edge to edge then caulked the glass/film to the frame, replaced the trim then did a small cap bead, like normal. 

 

Much more secure install because the trim pieces are just held in by pressure from the small rubber gasket. If you were to break the glass and push hard enough to distort the glass those trims will just pop out and the whole glass will fall in. This makes it bonded as one unit.

 

It is kind of a pain to do because the glass is loose when you pop that trim, so I use a suction cup with a 1x4 on the outside to hold the glass in place while installing. 

 

:twocents  

Edited by Tint Eastwood

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:yeah  I always remove panic bars.
 
On a few jobs I’ve even removed the trim piece that holds the glass and filmed edge to edge then caulked the glass/film to the frame, replaced the trim then did a small cap bead, like normal. 
 
Much more secure install because the trim pieces are just held in by pressure from the small rubber gasket. If you were to break the glass and push hard enough to distort the glass those trims will just pop out and the whole glass will fall in. This makes it bonded as one unit.
 
It is kind of a pain to do because the glass is loose when you pop that trim, so I use a suction cup with a 1x4 on the outside to hold the glass in place while installing. 
 
:twocents  

I remove panic bars too but our other 2 guys don’t know how. I had the maintenance guy remove the trim pieces on those doors your talking about to get it in like described. Didn’t think about doing a beauty bead after they were reinstalled though. Gonna do that on the next one I do. We still have about 8 schools that have to be finished next week before school starts

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