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TQtinting

Torching glass on matrix?

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Howdy y’all! :hat  It has been quite a while since I’ve posted hope everyone is doing good! 

 

Question: will be tinting a Chrysler 300 Saturday with the known lower matrix line. Do you guys typically torch this area from the outside and get it to stick the best you can and deal with best results possible or do something else to help it out? I’m a Dotrix guy but I don’t believe reducing visibility would be real awesome for my customer :eye

 

I have torched matrix areas before and it turned out OK at best. Unless if I’m just not doing it enough. 

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7 hours ago, TQtinting said:

Howdy y’all! :hat  It has been quite a while since I’ve posted hope everyone is doing good! 

 

Question: will be tinting a Chrysler 300 Saturday with the known lower matrix line. Do you guys typically torch this area from the outside and get it to stick the best you can and deal with best results possible or do something else to help it out? I’m a Dotrix guy but I don’t believe reducing visibility would be real awesome for my customer :eye

 

I have torched matrix areas before and it turned out OK at best. Unless if I’m just not doing it enough. 

 

Can you elaborate on what you do when you torch the matrix? Just curious

 

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29 minutes ago, Tint Slayer said:

 

Can you elaborate on what you do when you torch the matrix? Just curious

 

By torching I mean using a torch or heat gun on the outside of the glass in order to get the film to stick to the dot matrix. Getting the glass warm in the matrix area from outside and then squeegee it down.

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4 minutes ago, TQtinting said:

By torching I mean using a torch or heat gun on the outside of the glass in order to get the film to stick to the dot matrix. Getting the glass warm in the matrix area from outside and then squeegee it down.

ok that's what i thought, that's what i do too also on the inside a bit

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@Tint Slayer Do you have any recommendation as far as this method goes? Meaning do you have any sort of routine you follow? I’ve seen guys mention heating the glass and then using paper towel to run down the film but I didn’t know what works best. I’ve tried this before but always over heat to where it won’t stick or it’s never even across. 

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I was reading last week where a trainer from XPEL said to squeegee the window except matrix along top, leaving solution under matrix. Then to use a torch to “boil” the application solution before hard carding the area. I haven’t tried this.... anyone use this method? I’m afraid of melting the film.

cheers

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3 hours ago, flat rock stan said:

I was reading last week where a trainer from XPEL said to squeegee the window except matrix along top, leaving solution under matrix. Then to use a torch to “boil” the application solution before hard carding the area. I haven’t tried this.... anyone use this method? I’m afraid of melting the film.

cheers

Yep I use lulu at work and this is what I've done for years. Say you want the dots on a frameless beemer door to stick get the top stuck using this method and a torch and then a heat gun down at the bottom, for this to work well your patterns really need to cover the dots on the side. The bottom I roll my cut up just enough that it's not deep in the seal as to keep it from soaking up more solution and never sticking. :twocents 

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Been a while since I made the post but I’ve since tinted the car, saw it today, and there wasn’t a single spot on the lower matrix that wasn’t sticking to the dots, no “silvering” at all. Just used a heat gun from the outside and bulldozer after heating glass and good to go.

Edited by TQtinting
Cause I ain’t done did spell sumtin right.

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older vehicles or ones known to have problems with film sticking to the matrix,  strong prep solution like pro bond works great.  A thick cloth to make sure you get the residue out from between the dots when you apply.   I wrap my pro-handle with a perfect cloth or kaywos 4 layers.   squeegee alone will not get all the water out  between the dots.   I also use my torch on the inside if needed to speed it up on problem vehicles.

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