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Tinting Autos with Super Huper


tintme69

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Guest metint

Plenty of input to follow, I am sure...

I've yet to get my hands a large enough piece just to see its heat forming characteristics, but from what I have heard and read here a TD.com....

If it is anything like the VKool's 60 & 70% or CPF's AVS-60 it is a easy does it on heat when forming or you may shatter the deposition stack. More difficult back glasses may require two piece. I'd begin practicing now for those seamless defrost cuts.

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Guest tintman72

Huper holds a lot of heat so it will take a little longer to shrink down. Some of the harder vehicles are easier if you do them dry. I have found that the vehicles without a convex curve usually goes quicker shrinking it wet.

It is surely a different film to shape due to it's thickness but when you shrink it a few times it becomes easier and faster for you to install.

If you get in the situation of doing a "bug" it is a little easier to leave the top a bottom long and tug the film down as you heat it (dry).

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Guest tintslut
We just became a Huper dealer and have yet to tint a vehicle with it. You who have, which film is easiest to use and is one piece doable??

I have never been good at two piecing so I hope so. :thumb

there all one piece DO-ABLE. Easy does it on the heat , get a real heat gun,

and expect to take about twice as long to install it.

And somewhere in hte back of your mind remember, thats a chunk of change

your torturing with tha heat gun.

Ive never been able to knock out two pieces in one nite, shizz I forgot , this is

tintzzz were talkin about :lol

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Guest Litespeeds

You will quickly find out this film is not for the beginner/intermediate tinter. It usually takes about an hour to heat shrink a back window without damaging the film. On more curved back windows, I wouldn't even know where to begin because if you heat shrink too much, it will create "Ghosting" where you see this white hazy shadow when you view the film under direct sunlight at different angles. The 30% is definitley alot thicker than your average film. The 40% is just slightly thicker and the 50% feels almost like a hybrid film.

I have tried to heat shrink the film dry and wet and end up doing it a certain way depending upon the car that I have to work with. Working with this film for about 10 months now, strictly on autos, I have yet to master heat shrinking it. It just doesn't seem to get any easier but I am still trying. Never give up! :thumb

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Look the answer is sure it's hard to form but why bother. :sign

Seaming is an art form all tinters should be able to do expertly. It only takes practise. The result is a back glass done in minutes, no potential to crease expensive films, no fingers, no ghosting, no adhesive shrink marks occuring later on down the track, no subjecting concentrated heat to areas of film to ruin adhesive, no big deal.

I don't quite understand why the song and dance routine is made out of one piecing? :shock

If you can't do it, I'll happily provide tips here on the forum.

Devil

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