Jump to content

freon leak

Guest 12345

By Guest 12345
in Isuzu

Recommended Posts

tint123

tint123

Posted
Posted

DON'T MESS WITH IT !

Take it to a repair shop and have it done right.

This is not buying your own tint and having someone fix a job that looks bad !

The Retro kits you can buy will burn your compressor in most cases within a few months, if you do what it says on the box, you will severely overcharge your system, and blow a high $$ part from the excessive pressure.

The recharge kits only come with low pressure gauge, and you need to know both high and low pressure readings to charge to proper level.

People have had those cans blow up in their hand, cause they did not do it right.

If you cannot answer these questions, then please have it done by a Pro !

Will you charge by weight or using just the gauge readings ?

If it is a 134 system, what should the readings be on an 80 degree day ?

Before adding freon to the system, how do you purge the gauges to avoid having air get into the system ?

TD, I am sorry this is off-topic, but this guy could cause serious injury to himself trying to save $$$.

I have been working with my own car A/C since the days of $2 R-12 cans, and had the good fortune of having a neighbor who was an A/C Tech guide me through all the work I have done on my systems over the years, so I feel qualified to give the basic advice to this guy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest solarspot

Guest solarspot

Posted
Posted
DON'T MESS WITH IT !

Take it to a repair shop and have it done right.

This is not buying your own tint and having someone fix a job that looks bad !

The Retro kits you can buy will burn your compressor in most cases within a few months, if you do what it says on the box, you will severely overcharge your system, and blow a high $$ part from the excessive pressure.

The recharge kits only come with low pressure gauge, and you need to know both high and low pressure readings to charge to proper level.

People have had those cans blow up in their hand, cause they did not do it right.

If you cannot answer these questions, then please have it done by a Pro !

Will you charge by weight or using just the gauge readings ?

If it is a 134 system, what should the readings be on an 80 degree day ?

Before adding freon to the system, how do you purge the gauges to avoid having air get into the system ?

TD, I am sorry this is off-topic, but this guy could cause serious injury to himself trying to save $$$.

I have been working with my own car A/C since the days of $2 R-12 cans, and had the good fortune of having a neighbor who was an A/C Tech guide me through all the work I have done on my systems over the years, so I feel qualified to give the basic advice to this guy.

:beer I have 15 years HVAC experience and this is VERY good advise. The days of simple buy a cheap can of R-12 and shoot it in are over. If you don't understand the differences of the two kinds of refrigerant DON'T mess with it.

The problem with a conversion kit is the oils in the system are not compatible at all. The oil in 134A is very unforgiving compared to what 12 used. Example if you left the system open to the air for more than 20 minutes the oil is no good it will contain too much moisture that a good vacuum will not even pull out. :beer:dunno:lol2:blah

Didn't realize how old the thread was :thumb

Link to comment
Share on other sites
tint123

tint123

Posted
Posted

Solar, I didn't realize the age of this one, either till you mentioned it.

Those DIY conversion kits, you end up with way too much oil, and mixing the 2 refrigerants together ?

Recipe for major A/C failure !

Of course the leak means air in the system, corrosion from moisture, etc etc.

I doubt the A/C folks were thinking that the DIY kits would put them out of business.

Same thing with the DIY film, creates more business as a result of DIY.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest solarspot

Guest solarspot

Posted
Posted
Solar, I didn't realize the age of this one, either till you mentioned it.

Those DIY conversion kits, you end up with way too much oil, and mixing the 2 refrigerants together ?

Recipe for major A/C failure !

Of course the leak means air in the system, corrosion from moisture, etc etc.

I doubt the A/C folks were thinking that the DIY kits would put them out of business.

Same thing with the DIY film, creates more business as a result of DIY.

Exactly the R-12 systems were very forgiving unlike the new R-134A. The problem is that they act like it is a drop in replacement witch in fact it is NOT. This is what is happening to

the residential market right now with the R-410A. It is replacing R-22 and mirrors the problems in the auto side of it.

On another note R-22 is getting phased out with less production every year and guess what

R-134A is half R-22 so get ready for another change in the future :dunno

Link to comment
Share on other sites
alberts316

alberts316

Posted
Posted

take it in to someone cuz most likley a seal has gone bad or you have a leak and the can put dye in the system and check it with a uv light. If there is a leak you are wasting money one the do it yourself kits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing
  •   Sponsored by
    tintwiz

    auto-precut.com

    signwarehouse

    martinmetalwork.com

    tinttek

    filmvinyldesigns

    ride wrap

    Conco

    Lexen

  • Activity Stream

    1. 7

      Air80 vs Stratos70 Windshield

      Since there is no limit of darkness on the top strip, I have wanted to tint it. But I would go very dark, to help with sun glare in the evening.
      mikenot in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    2. 7

      Air80 vs Stratos70 Windshield

      Yeah that’s a very fair point to a degree I’m probably overthinking it. I don’t see really significant glare reduction until you get into much darker tint. Like you I think visibility for me is more important living in the country. I’ll probably see what the specs list the differences between 70% and 80% and then double check with the tinter as to what they recommend. Likely will end up with 70% with a strip along the top. Air80 seems to be much more popular, not sure if it’s due to performance or the difference in cost being so much more for the stratos. thank you
      joshiemcduck in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    3. 0

      Process

      Hey guys - so I work for a vinyl graphics company that is adding window tinting to their repertoire and I had a question about your guys' ideal process. I have my plotter set up and my window tinting software ready to go, but I am completely ignorant about the way that tint installers prefer that things be cut. Currently, I will plot/weed the tint and cut the backing away as much as I dare before handing it over to the installer. I was thinking that the installer would prefer the tint to be cut to shape which I believe I can achieve with the perf cut on my plotter. Is that the typical process or should I not be worried so much about it being cut to exact shape?
      DonMeads in Plotters and Cutting Systems
    4. 7

      Air80 vs Stratos70 Windshield

      Im in TX, plenty of of what you mentioned. While I do sit higher in an SUV, glare reduction is not improved much at all with what I have. My 80% is almost clear, not dark at all. With all tint, it adds a bit of reflectivity from the outside, which I notice makes it slightly harder to see from the outside looking in, in the form of a glare not darkness. At the end of the day, it's not permanent, it's only money!
      mikenot in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    5. 0

      PPF installer for hire in SoCAL

      Hello. My name is Adrian i have good experience with paint protection film and i just moved to California, Irvine, i'm open to travel one hour away for the right job. You can contact me at 5717330693
      adrianpaun in Classifieds • Employment • Marketplace
    6. 11

      Boat window tinting tips

      or "bust out another thousand"
      TintDude in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    7. 11

      Boat window tinting tips

      Best tip would be, “Sorry, no boats”.
      pbalentine in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    8. 11

      Boat window tinting tips

      The answer is to not heat that area too much so that you leave some slack in the film for when you get it to the inside. Also cut your pattern a little large so that you can trim a thread off the edges after shrinking to not have a furled edge. After you do a few of those you'll figure out how much to leave/trim to not have any light gaps. Also I'll leave a hardcard wrapped in a microfiber in the bottom overnight to collect water and keep pressure on the film while it dries. Sometimes you can take the top rail off the glass if the jackwagon boat builder didn't put too much pressure on the glass package when it was installed. If you pull the rail off of a tight package it's a pita to get back on, looking like it could crack the whole time. Congrats on getting it done. I've seen plenty that couldn't, which is why I price them like I do.
      Dano in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    9. 11

      Boat window tinting tips

      Thx everyone for the tips the install went fine, however i did run into a new problem on the main curve of the glass from thr outside the tint would lay flat on the big curve but when applying it seemed like there was too much tension and it would not stay down i ended up heating it up and flattening down but some of that area got overheated and warped a little, if you know how to tackle this problem please help me thank you!
      Lauty in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    10. 6

      Removable rigid window tint sheets - WTF?

      civicrice in Window Tinting - General Discussion
×
×
  • Create New...