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Guest Retro Tint

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Guest Retro Tint

I know this has been beat to death. I'm good once I get film to glass but have a hell of a time starting the liner removal. Whats the best way to start the first foot or two? It always wants to crease. How do you keep it taut? Also film from unrolling while trying to position. :bling

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hold the tube in one hand. unroll about 1 foot spray with water, roll back up, peal the tint and stick the liner back to the roll, unroll about 2 ft of the tint and spray with slip, then stick to the top of the glass, and as you unroll the tube down the liner peals off sticking to the back side of the tint, make sure the glass is soken wet NO DRY SPOTS

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Guest VOLTRON

just run yer finger along the edge where u want to peel the liner back after you have rolled it up, and make sure you roll it up tight and wet the liner and peel it back and stick it back to the underside of the rolled up film. You can peel about a foot of it and then make sure the window is wet and drop the whole piece all at once u dont have to help it along unless its a ps adhesive then it will be alot more difficult to unroll and in that case take a broom stick and put it inside the role and the weight of it will unroll it for you.

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Guest Retro Tint
PS or CDF, CD, CDA adhesive?

[*]307753

I,m gonna claim ignorance Me Tint. Its just detackified, but I would like to take this opportunity to be educated on the adhesive and the technique.

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I start all reverse rolling irrespective of adhesive system by only unrolling a maximum of 3"s to start with and never use sticks or cores.

Just wind the film up tight and as small as possible and manually wind it down.

With PS just make sure you don't have too much excess film oversize at the bottom of the glass as it makes it a bit more of a hassle to remove the liner if it gets all bunched up.

Devil

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Guest metint
PS or CDF, CD, CDA adhesive?

[*]307753

I,m gonna claim ignorance Me Tint. Its just detackified, but I would like to take this opportunity to be educated on the adhesive and the technique.

[*]307778

Well if it's detactified adhesive, there's no back rolling can be done and still install this type film adhesive properly. It's because detack adhesive systems need to have the detactifier washed away before applying to the glass surface and back rolling only allows you to we the glass surface. Though the moisture beneath the film on the glass will release the detactifier, your squeegee may not remove all of it, and thereby, keeping the film to reach it fullest bonding potential.

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Guest Retro Tint
PS or CDF, CD, CDA adhesive?

[*]307753

I,m gonna claim ignorance Me Tint. Its just detackified, but I would like to take this opportunity to be educated on the adhesive and the technique.

[*]307778

Well if it's detactified adhesive, there's no back rolling can be done and still install this type film adhesive properly. It's because detack adhesive systems need to have the detactifier washed away before applying to the glass surface and back rolling only allows you to we the glass surface. Though the moisture beneath the film on the glass will release the detactifier, your squeegee may not remove all of it, and thereby, keeping the film to reach it fullest bonding potential.

[*]307845

I'll have to check with manufacturer to see exactly what it is. What does CDF, CD and CDA stand for? What type is on most dual reflective film lines?

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Guest metint

Dual reflective Vista and LLumar... example of CDF...

Dual reflective 3M... example of detactified pressure sensitive (PS)...

Detact = pressure sensitive (a mechanical adhesive) with detactifier on liner, which releases to adhesive when liner is removed and requires the installer to flush or wash it away to expose the PS adhesive for bonding.

PS = (a mechanical sticky adhesive) requires no activation or curing... only drying of application solution. AKA slip solution, is used only for positioning and aid in extracting solution and air from beneath the film during squeegeeing.

CDF, CDA, CD, etc. = (a dry, chemical adhesive) activated with water and requires heat to cure. Application solution's water activates and any slip agent allows the installer to remove solution and air from beneath the film.

PSA = (again a mechanical) pressure sensitive 'acrylic' adhesive, very aggressive in nature and used mostly on safety films. As with pressure sensitive adhesive, needs no activation or curing... only dry time after the install.

Pressure sensitive = sensitive to pressure... greater the pressure used during install, the greater the bond.

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Guest darkdan

I typically tuck the film under my elbow and hold it against my side.

This allows me to use both hands to start my peel. After I get the corner and a little ways into the middle. Then I grab it with my other hand.

So hold it with right elbow and my love handles. Peel as much as I can.

Switch to holding it with my left hand and continue peel.

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