Problems with door panels tinting without removing

[Guest chip01]

Really naffed off with removing panel, time consuming / difficult etc would like to have a go installing without removing them. How is this done and do I have to apply a different technique. Are there any dangers of contam.

Do I need any other tools, I have heard of the gasket wizard what does this do for me

[Guest metint]

I will assume you already place the top of the film to the glass first, door panel, no door panel...

When installing with door panel in place it is important to leave about three inches of liner still clinging to the bottom of your pattern. This protects the adhesive until you are ready to work the bottom in.

Having the window down slightly to access the edge, do the top half or so first and complete to the point of able to roll the glass back up. Once ready for the bottom, thoroughly flush glass at the underside of the film being careful not to crimp the film in a serious way. Once flushed, carefully roll your window up while holding onto the remaining liner. This will keep it from snagging on the door panel.

Remove the liner using one hand starting at front or back, carefully pull the liner free while the other hand holds film in place, moving across the bottom edge of your pattern from one end to another. At this point you want the film's bottom edge placed an the glass surface above the weather-strip.

Using a slammer, a flexible hard card, a gasket wizard, a bone, an Edge tool, whatever you can slip behind the rub rail weather-strip to hold it back long enough to slip the film beneath the rub rail. Begin at one side, make sure the side edge of the film lays flush or flat to the glass, tool in place pulling back the rub rail at the corner area, slide the film's side edge in place while simultaneously slip that area's bottom edge beneath the rub rail.

Begin to move across the rub rail to the other end and at the same time pull back the rub rail, slip the film's bottom edge under the rub rail and upon reaching the other bottom corner, repeat the same process performed at the other corner.

I have found side to side squeegee process to work well in keeping fingers from forming beneath the rub rail when finished with my install. Heat forming fingers away before the install also aids in eliminating a struggle with fingering. Hard card top edges prior to roll up with a towel wrapped card to absorb any remaining moisture.

Carefully use a towel wrapped card on the remainder of the window, if need be. For me, a white teflon card passed over the film along the bottom edge also goes a long way in ridding that area of moisture so the film can tack down quicker.

Time to breathe...

[TINT]

your in the biz of tinting windows, you have to able to remove panels, I dont remove if the its fairly easy to do them on there, if not, I rather remove panels if it conisits of me doing a good job. period. if you cant do that. then find another profession.

[Guest chip01]

what happens if you are not putting the top part of the film in first can you still do this also can you just go over

Once you have finished the top part of the window, flush the bottom then relase the liner onto the window, the par t the goes beneth the gasket what happens to it does this not get contam on it due to it overhanging on the trim before you put the gasket back, how do you get round this I am still a bit confused

[Guest DARKSIDE WINDOW TINTING]

what r u confused about?

[Guest zolar]

what happens if you are not putting the top part of the film in first can you still do this also can you just go over

Once you have finished the top part of the window, flush the bottom then relase the liner onto the window, the par t the goes beneth the gasket what happens to it does this not get contam on it due to it overhanging on the trim before you put the gasket back, how do you get round this I am still a bit confused

[*]322917

The film co.s sell gasket masks, or get some

paint masks in the paint dept. at your local hardware mega store

about .15 each

they work like the gasket wizard (click the goat in my sig)

most can have the rubber trim at the bottom pulled out

with a Red Devil, or The Countour (cool azz tool)

for the film to slide behind

I rarely pull panels

and film looks tight

diffrnt' strizokes

[Guest tinterjim]

I've been tinting over 17 years and I've never EVER removed a door panel.

Metint summed it up for ya

[Guest tint rookie]

only pull the liner off 1/2 way, the film will remain unexposed while is resting on the sill.

after rolled up if the film is flat against the glass (just butted up againt the rubber) you will be fine till you work it down under

[Devil with bad attitude]

your in the biz of tinting windows, you have to able to remove panels, I dont remove if the its fairly easy to do them on there, if not, I rather remove panels if it conisits of me doing a good job. period. if you cant do that. then find another profession.

[*]322912

I didn't know you had a tinter cloned downunder Tint?

That's what I do all the time.

Devil

[Guest blackglass]

the only thing I would add to metint s is ROUND CORNERS it is so much quicker to get the film started and it helps prevent any peeling later down the road. it is always harder to peel a rounded corner.

oh and hi all I've been lost 4 a while but I will be dropping in more