Thank you! You mentioned LowE will take care of radiant heat, does this mean tinting is more for direct heat? Does tint help with radiant heat?
The glass is Tempered Guardian SN68 and it's spec does not specify hi-performance or LowE2/E3. When viewing white window shade, it does have a green tint to it but does not appear abnormally green so I think it's just standard LowE? The specs are below:
I think HVAC is definitely 1 of 3 big factors in our heat but I don't think it is just duct size. We have a 18,000btu ducted split unit for just upstairs (~450sqft), running 10" ducts but I think with all the heat coming up from downstairs, it is just not enough. So I'm trying to gauge to see if tint will make a big difference or if I should just invest in tearing out and upsizing HVAC (this is more work than preferred as it is a modern design with no attic or dropped ceilings).
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If only 2 yrs old they are likely hi-performance (better known as lowE2 or lowE3, since there is little cost difference between the older (standard) lowE and today's hi-performance (HP). HP lowE will look more than usual green when viewing white window dressing from outside. That is of course if at building time standard was specifically ordered.
I could be wrong sitting behind a monitor and keyboard.
It was important to ask because you can put any film on HP lowE whereby, standard lowE has restrictions on absorption and reflectance rates a window film possesses. Straight shodows across the glass also add a level of concern from an uneven distribution of heating of the glass. If they are tempered, throw any concern out the window.
LowE will take care of ambient air temps as it is designed to be a thermal barrier from far infrared (radiant heat), whether man-made or sun generated air temp. Any wind passing over the glass carries away heat build up in the outer pane's exterior surface
A 55 film would give you low to moderate degree of glare reduction as opposed to going as low as dual-reflective 35. dual relective 35 would also increase heat rejection capacity of the glazing system.
Consider put 55 or 70 on East/West to preserve incoming light intensity and 35 on South facing to knock down glare a intruding heat factor.
The installing firm should be able to determine what lowE type you have with a meter and make recommended film applications accordingly.
I want to believe it'll take more than film to bring the temp in the room down to a mid to upper 70 degree range. Extra cooling capacity via larger duct work, for instance. I have had experience with this when tinting a hi-rise condo building in Naples FL back in the mid 90's. It was enlarging the dust work that solved their issue after window film was applied.