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Trying to do the top part of the window first?

Guest chip01

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Guest chip01

I am trying to do the top part of the window first then tucking the bottam into the seal after leaving a bit of the liner on but having loads of problems with roll downs because the sides are creasing

At the moment this is what I am doing any help will be appreciated

Prep window for install with window down a few inches

I remove most of the liner except the bottam 3 inches and spray as I go

grab left top corner as I look at the film with the right hand then right corner with left hand walk towards window and put film on one side then the other leaving the liner over the door card. At this stage I have a problem the sides will not go in and crease the film because the bottom of the film is not in. How do you get round this . I really want to get this technique down so I can stop taking door cards off \ pulling door cards and starting tucking the film

CAN Someone please help, but make it simple

Thanks in advance

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Guest metint
At this stage I have a problem the sides will not go in and crease the film because the bottom of the film is not in. How do you get round this . 


Treat the film like a lady... be gentle as can be by sliding it in with as little force as possible. :rest

With some cars you may mildly crease the film... these generally can be heated out after the install is complete by warming the outside of the glass near that area with a heat gun. Careful not to get the glass so hot you can't touch it and don't burn or melt the surrounding rubber gasket. :shock

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And don't "grab" the tint. Pull the tint off the peel board (or whatever you use) and support the tint with your hands/arms. Don't let the adhesive touch ANYTHING except the intended clean glass. Also, if you can get the tint to "roll" out of the side channel instead of allowing it to crease, you will see a cleaner and less stressful install. The roll is hard to explain but it significantly reduces creases and contamination. Get as much film into the side channel as possible. About 2 inches above where the liner is attached, the tint should start to roll under and out of the side. This keeps the exposed film from touching anything.

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Guest chip01

I understand what you are saying but, it just seams that no matter what you are always going to crease the film because you are trying to push the top part of the film into the channel and not the bottom until you have rolled the window up. I am so used to to sliding the film down rather than laying it up. Do you have to slide the top edge in one side then the other?

I am getting creases about half way down the window! if this helps. Could it be because of how far the window is rolled down, is this any different to the way I have been doing it previous or is it still a couple of inches or so


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if you're more comfortable with the panels off then why switch? I'm a panel puller, have always been (when gaskets don't come right out). the more you pull panels the quicker you get. :shock it's the end result that's more important...not whether or not you save up to 10 minutes by tucking. you're not saving time and money if you have to redo windows with creases.

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Guest tint rookie

keep practicing...... once the movements and techniques become fluid and smooth, the creases will go away. until then the time it takes with a heat gun and chisler is still gonna be faster than pulling the pannel.

how much longer are you cutting the sides and bottom. without pulling pannels, its a fine line between cutting too short and too long.

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Guest Olfablade

Flush mounted roll ups are the hardest to do without creasing. It then depends on yer skill level to Get R Done!

Tape off felt, and wash rubber on any verticle post on roll ups, use a hair dryer on the inside of the crease to help blow out excessive moisture, and heat the adhesive faster than a potentially damaging heat gun on the exterior to get the glass up to temp. :rollin

Link to photos of the idea:My Webpage

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