Guest Diamond Tints Report post Posted November 6, 2005 Anyone know any easy ways of getting the weather strips out of the cayenne/vw toureg as identical strips in both of them but the way they go into the doors are a pain Share this post Link to post
Guest naughtydog Report post Posted November 6, 2005 They are tight...if you remove the panel and then pull the weather strip out backwards rather than trying to lift it - this works. Naughty Share this post Link to post
Guest Diamond Tints Report post Posted November 7, 2005 Cheers nick, don't you have some kind of tool for this? if so can you pm me details and pricing Share this post Link to post
goodtohave 0 Report post Posted May 9, 2006 Any tricks to getting the panels off...? I played around with one about 2 yrs ago and had no luck. I forget why but there was something I was missing. I have been tucking but have had a lot of problems. It is a big moulding. Any info on how to take them apart is appreciated. I have been doing this for almost 15 yrs and this was the 1st panel I could not figure out. Granted it was a couple of yrs ago and it was the 1st Cayenne Turbo in town so I was a bit aprehensive! Thanks again. Share this post Link to post
Guest Beeline Report post Posted May 9, 2006 I cut them close on the outside. I don't remove anything. I do the 1/2 and 1/2 method. I buckle the bottom and slide it behind the gasket. I heat it and touch it up with a hard card wraped in a paper towel..... Share this post Link to post
Guest naughtydog Report post Posted May 9, 2006 I now do the same as beeline. Leave the panel on, micro edge and leave it sitting just above the rub rail. Naughty Share this post Link to post
Guest Rockabilly Report post Posted July 19, 2006 Found it too hard to flip the top of the door trim, remove/replace the rubber and flip the trim back into the rubber channel without totally screwing up the rubber. So, this is how we now remove the door trim on the Cayenne. Picture 1 (door1.jpg). Put a plastic lever (bone?) under the grab handle and pry it off. Less chance to break this flimsy platic trim piece this way. Picture 2 (door2.jpg). Pull the bottom of the arm-rest moulding, from the front of the door. There is a gap between the moulding and the door panel where you can get your fingers. Again, flimsy plastic, but it comes off. Picture 3 (door3.jpg). Red dots indicate where the torx screws are (no-brainer at this stage). Also a smaller torx screw at the bottom of the door trim, hidden in the carpet. Easiest way to go once all the screws are out is to flip the top of the trim, then work your way around the panel, popping the plastic retainers. Same retainers as on Audis, VWs etc. Then, you'll need to use a small hook tool to pry the rubber gasket out of the channel at the top of the door trim. It has metal in it, so it will bend. But, once it goes back in, its easy to straighten out back in the channel. Once its tinted, and the rubber is back in, hook the top of the door trim in the rubber and work down, popping the retainers in place in the door. Share this post Link to post
Guest Tintim Report post Posted July 19, 2006 Hey Tintboy, I've found these interior seals create a kind of vacuum pressure they are in so tight. Start at back edge and with a white stick lever between the interior metal and seal, your white stick should be sticking up stuck in the seal, once you get the first few inches up move your white stick along and pull another few inches of the seal up and work your way along. SOme people spray the seal with a bit of slip but I find it difficult to grip. When you get the knack they're out in a minute. Doing it this way keeps seal nice and straight and then door panel slots back into it nicely. I also have danish pr0no version of this technique, but you must have large bosoms for it to work Share this post Link to post
Guest Premier Protect Report post Posted September 10, 2006 Hey Tintboy,I've found these interior seals create a kind of vacuum pressure they are in so tight. Start at back edge and with a white stick lever between the interior metal and seal, your white stick should be sticking up stuck in the seal, once you get the first few inches up move your white stick along and pull another few inches of the seal up and work your way along. SOme people spray the seal with a bit of slip but I find it difficult to grip. When you get the knack they're out in a minute. Doing it this way keeps seal nice and straight and then door panel slots back into it nicely. I also have danish pr0no version of this technique, but you must have large bosoms for it to work Door panel removal works best for us, but Porsche panels are pretty tight especially the newer models w/ the new clips Share this post Link to post
lorenzotint 15 Report post Posted September 23, 2006 Door panel R/R is a must to insure a long film life on these cars, and an ultra clean install. Good reason for additional labor charge also. Share this post Link to post