Best Tint to Keep Cool in Home

[Devil with bad attitude]

Yeah, I figured you were... Oz is an oversized island.

Sure is mate and a biggy at that!

I've got a young devil in the big centre of the outback at the moment on school vacation and it has taken hours by jet to get to just the centre.

(Too big to be eaten by a dingo now thank God.)

How far away from the coast are the manufacturers saying is corrosion safe?

I've never been able to get a definitive answer on that.

devil

[Guest vclimber]

Yeah, I figured you were... Oz is an oversized island.

Sure is mate and a biggy at that!

I've got a young devil in the big centre of the outback at the moment on school vacation and it has taken hours by jet to get to just the centre.

(Too big to be eaten by a dingo now thank God.)

How far away from the coast are the manufacturers saying is corrosion safe?

I've never been able to get a definitive answer on that.

devil

I don't think you ever will get a definitive answer. They do alot of testing but it's like they adheasive problem down your way, everyone justs picks a number and holds their breath. I've heard 40-60 miles but I think it is all subjective to where in the world you are talking about...

[Tinitman]

I think you have to look at this another way. These films with silver will corrode. It really does not matter how close you are to the salt water, they will corrode after time unprotected. If your area is humid, they will corrode.

Years ago we had a very wet summer and high humidity. I had one install where the edges started to corrode within 60 days. It was a small job.

The manufacturer keeps telling us we do not need to seal the edges and it is an overkill. Better safe than sorry and spend a little extra time.

Ever since then, we seal every install using that film. Have never had a problem since. This month alone we have installed over 2000 square feet of it.

[Guest vclimber]

I think you have to look at this another way. These films with silver will corrode. It really does not matter how close you are to the salt water, they will corrode after time unprotected. If your area is humid, they will corrode.

Years ago we had a very wet summer and high humidity. I had one install where the edges started to corrode within 60 days. It was a small job.

The manufacturer keeps telling us we do not need to seal the edges and it is an overkill. Better safe than sorry and spend a little extra time.

Ever since then, we seal every install using that film. Have never had a problem since. This month alone we have installed over 2000 square feet of it.

Tin, true, humidity is a factor with AG films, however, I don't think you understand what I was trying to tell Dev. It's not humidy in coastal environments that makes this stuff corrode so fast, it is the salt air from the marine environment. So if you live on an island, you'd better be careful about installing AG films.

[Roach]

What do you use to seal the edges?

[Guest VOLTRON]

most manu make some kind of sealent, but its not like DOW or anything, what I have seen comes in a can that looks like paint thinner. and you brush it on. This was about 4 years ago when I saw the stuff.

[Guest cactustint]

mirror film is best for heat

wow

I didint know you could lose

credables by talking here

I will not tell what film I like to use

promise

it wold be a big list

[Guest darkdan]

maximum out there would be from Vcool, Huper,

check out Hanita Coatings theyr'e Cold Steel 70%. I just did a home in Feb and did not cut any of the sunlight out. and Customer is very happy with it.

Ahhh! Not so much the max. Unless you like working w/ the PS adhesive, and high oxidation. There are several other films doing the same, more, and soon to be more. It helps to know what we are up against if we are going to sell. What is the TSER of the CS 70%? Thank You!

CS70:

66% VLT

9% VLR

34% TSER

.76 Shading Coefficient

[Guest scottym]

If the goal is keeping the home cool while maximizing VLT why are people quoting the TSER spec instead of "Heat Reduction". I believe I'm paying the electric company to run my AC to remove the wavelengths that result in heat. TSER seems to include DC to daylight as far as spectal frequencies are concerned.

I've been looking at the spec sheets from several film vendors and I'm becoming very frustrated since some quote performance for 1/8" single pane only, 1/4" single pane, generic insulated glass. How am I supposed to make an informed decision based on available info.

My windows are Andersen casement 3/8" total thickness dual-pane, argon-filled and organically sealed. The best estimate I was able to make was using info provided by Llumar for 1/8" dual pane and 1/4" dual pane and splitting the difference on the "heat reduction" spec.

The two films I compared were the Scotchtint NV series and the Llumar Bronze film. The 3M film, using numbers quoted from their generic sample card, were not even close in terms of both VLT and heat reduction. 3M was prettier, IMHO, but the Llumar film looked better on paper.

Anyone have any comments to add regarding either of these films?

[Guest vclimber]

If the goal is keeping the home cool while maximizing VLT why are people quoting the TSER spec instead of "Heat Reduction". I believe I'm paying the electric company to run my AC to remove the wavelengths that result in heat. TSER seems to include DC to daylight as far as spectal frequencies are concerned.

I've been looking at the spec sheets from several film vendors and I'm becoming very frustrated since some quote performance for 1/8" single pane only, 1/4" single pane, generic insulated glass. How am I supposed to make an informed decision based on available info.

My windows are Andersen casement 3/8" total thickness dual-pane, argon-filled and organically sealed. The best estimate I was able to make was using info provided by Llumar for 1/8" dual pane and 1/4" dual pane and splitting the difference on the "heat reduction" spec.

The two films I compared were the Scotchtint NV series and the Llumar Bronze film. The 3M film, using numbers quoted from their generic sample card, were not even close in terms of both VLT and heat reduction. 3M was prettier, IMHO, but the Llumar film looked better on paper.

Anyone have any comments to add regarding either of these films?

Scotty,

Heat Reduction and Solar Energy Reduction are two totally different things. You can have a flame that is the same temperature as a forest fire, however, each is emitting far different amounts of energy. Window Films do not cool to a certain temperature, but rather, they reject a certain amount of solar energy.

Solar Heat Gain Coefficient or SHGC is an NFRC recognized measurment in the glass industry. The formula for the Window Film measurement "Total Solar Energy Rejected" is similar in that you can arrive at the same measurement with the following formula. "1-TSER=SHGC"

Most parameter sheets available to the general public will be film specs based on 1/8" clear monlithic glass.

There are a lot of Bronze Llumar Films, I picked twwo. Here is the performance data for glass that is similar to your windows:

Llumar DR 35

SHGC= .51

TSER= 49%

SC= .59

Llumar N1035 Bronze

SHGC= .45

TSER= 55%

SC= .52