Tinting 72 Olds rear (flat) window?

[Guest 72Cutlass]

Well, I been developing my tinting skills on some windows removed from a wrecked BMW for the last month, and I've gone through at least 7 rolls of Gila so I could tackle my 72 Cutlass Supreme. I finally got good enough to try the side windows on my 72 Cutlass and successfully layed down tint after removing all the door panels. They actually look real good, though because my garage is pretty dusty, I do have couple of dust specks that I will deal with later.

Now comes the rear window? The rear window is flat glass (no curve) with no defroster lines, so it seems like it may be more straightforward than the typical curved rear windows on newer cars. Any tips to make the job easier?

Will the fact that the window is at a 45 degree angle make laying the tint down harder? Given that the glass is flat, will that mean my regular techniques on side glass (also flat-ish) should work? Any tips?

Dave

[Exact-Oh]

Besides contamination, that window will be easy. Just take your time cutting, to avoid light gaps at the nasty, dirty gaskets... and flush the gaskets with plenty of water. You will get massive contam. though if you aren't experienced.

[Guest 72Cutlass]

Besides contamination, that window will be easy. Just take your time cutting, to avoid light gaps at the nasty, dirty gaskets... and flush the gaskets with plenty of water. You will get massive contam. though if you aren't experienced.

Thanks! What do you use to flush the gaskets? Something like a gravy baster or is there something better? I recently removed the rear window to repair some rust spots at the bottom window channel and had to use butyl rubber strip to waterproff the window (which worries me as sticky as it is). Is the water channel or the window edge what you refer to as the gasket?

And what can I use to catch the water or channel away from the rear speakers areas? Just cover with a plastic sheet?

[Guest 1PEECBARETTA]

yep

[Guest 72Cutlass]

yep

My sons and I are restoring this car my father bought new in 1972 and so we're trying to do everything ourselves, a real father & son project. So far, we haven't stumbled through engine overhaul, body paint, and lots of suspension work.

But laying done the tint has been by far the most nerve-wracking task yet. I can see why everyone recommends going to a pro. But I can say we've learned a lot from our practice runs on the removed windows. Every time we layed down another box of tint, we learned at least one more thing.

Thanks for the help, guys!

[Guest 1PEECBARETTA]

your welcome

[Exact-Oh]

If you just had the window out, and have experience with the R&R, I would suggest removing it, tinting it, and carefully replacing it. That way you can tint it below the gasket location, and you won't have to deal with as much contamination issues.

[Guest 1PEECBARETTA]

I agee. cut the film only about 1/8 of an inch over the black border to avoid glueing the tint to the window adhesive .

[Guest 72Cutlass]

I agee. cut the film only about 1/8 of an inch over the black border to avoid glueing the tint to the window adhesive .

Good idea, since the butyl rubber doesn't harden, that may be the way to go. Thanks!

[Guest 72Cutlass]

I agee. cut the film only about 1/8 of an inch over the black border to avoid glueing the tint to the window adhesive .

Good idea, since the butyl rubber doesn't harden, that may be the way to go. Thanks!

One more question: A tinter friend of mine said to watch out for the dreaded fingers. So far, I haven't had that problem on the side windows. Is it more likely now that I'll see them on the rear windows. Though I have a heat gun, I don't think I've mastered the heat shrinking procedure yet. I've read postings on this subject but still not sure if I understand.

Am I correct here? I heat on the outside of the glass at the top of the finger and work the finder down with the squeegee on the inside of the glass. Keep the inside wet, squeegee the hell out of it, and don't let it heat the tint too much. Is that about right?

Dave

I agee. cut the film only about 1/8 of an inch over the black border to avoid glueing the tint to the window adhesive .

Good idea, since the butyl rubber doesn't harden, that may be the way to go. Thanks!

One more question: A tinter friend of mine said to watch out for the dreaded fingers. So far, I haven't had that problem on the side windows. Is it more likely now that I'll see them on the rear windows. Though I have a heat gun, I don't think I've mastered the heat shrinking procedure yet. I've read postings on this subject but still not sure if I understand.

Am I correct here? I heat on the outside of the glass at the top of the finger and work the finder down with the squeegee on the inside of the glass. Keep the inside wet, squeegee the hell out of it, and don't let it heat the tint too much. Is that about right?

Dave

BTW: I tried to remove the rear window but the butyl rubber started to come apart. Since I have to special order the rubber, I'm going to try it with the window installed.