Contamination

[Guest cherasia]

Yes, here it is... French windows revisited, but this can apply to just about any window with wooden frames and flaking, peeling varnish. The contamination is almost impossible to keep out given the current method I've used. Wet the glass, reverse roll the film. align to the bottom... the flakes still seep in. Looks like really fine oatmeal under the film. Removing, thoroughly rinsing, and re-applying after another glass cleaning did not help. We did do some pre-taping, but the junk still seeped in, the frames were brushed clean, the junk still came in. Because of the junk, the corners are lifting and sucking in condensation.

Unfortunately, at the time we took the job, I was too new and my mentor hadn't encountered this problem before. He said the stuff would bake into the adhesive and film over time and not show up. This isn't happening. I'm going to replace almost all of the film, but would appreciate your suggestions on keeping out the varnish dust. After viewing the Lulu CD, caulking might be an answer, although time consuming and a two-day process.

I have a feeling I'm scroo'd, but would like to know what you would do to remedy what I'm encountering. I want to make it right with the customer.

Thanks,

Shauna

[Guest vclimber]

"Bake into the adheasive and disappear"????? No way

Time to get a new mentor Cherasia

[Guest vclimber]

Try pre-cutting the film, and use minimal applicator solution. PS aheasive can be the easier option too.

Good things to remember with French Pane:

-Let someone else get the job

-Use light vlt film so the gaps don't show

-Minimal water usage, try to apply film when the frames are dry

-Precut when there are debris problems

-Charge a lot of $$$

[Guest haroldshouseoftint]

"Bake into the adheasive and disappear"????? No way

Time to get a new mentor Cherasia

I don't know about a lulu cd, but what I would suggest and mabye this is what the cd said, leave about a 1/16" gap all the way around the frames, and let the film dry for a week or so and go back and do caulking around the windows

[TINT]

"Bake into the adheasive and disappear"????? No way

Time to get a new mentor Cherasia

word to that.

question is why would you start a business of something you have no clue about?

its not smart at all. whenever there is ajob where you see there is going to be contamination no matter what you do. you have to advise the customer the job will not be perfect. or anything of that nature. im guessing customer is not gonna want to hear that after you started the job. suggestion would be finding someone who has more experience and have them do the best they can. cause from the looks of it, your going to do a bad job either way since you have limited experience.

example given here: if I wanted to be a body shop man, im gonna go and learn it some way to the point where I know what the heck im doing. and then start doing side jobs or doing my own thing.

amazing how some people can just start tinting simply watching us do it. lesson learned.

[Guest cherasia]

word to that.

question is why would you start a business of something you have no clue about?

its not smart at all. whenever there is ajob where you see there is going to be contamination no matter what you do. you have to advise the customer the job will not be perfect. or anything of that nature. im guessing customer is not gonna want to hear that after you started the job. suggestion would be finding someone who has more experience and have them do the best they can. cause from the looks of it, your going to do a bad job either way since you have limited experience.

example given here: if I wanted to be a body shop man, im gonna go and learn it some way to the point where I know what the heck im doing. and then start doing side jobs or doing my own thing.

amazing how some people can just start tinting simply watching us do it. lesson learned.

Yeah, I'm not too happy about it. I was told to let the customer know that there could be some slight contamination depending upon what is floating around in the air. With the exception of this job, all of the other ones have turned out beautifully. *sigh* It's really grating on me because I'm a perfectionist. If I ever come across flaking varnish again, I'll turn the job down until the customer re-does the finish on the frames.

But, in the meantime... any suggestions on how to lock the flaking varnish down when I go back to fix the problem?

Shauna

[Guest Key West]

Cherasia,

Like was said in a previous response, use the lightest VLT you can. Clean the glass, dry it, and then spray the FILM, not the glass. It's best if you have 2 factory edges. Use a hard card as a trim guide. Even this is not fool proof.

We had a job a few months ago with over 400 french panes. After about 2 hours, and mmmuch waste, we finally told the customer there was no way we could do a satisfactory job, and that if he was really worried about fading, he needed to replace the window with "Faux" french panes.

The house was over 100 years old, and the windows needed replacing anyway(Rot in alot of places)

Hope this helps

[VIP tint + glass]

when I do older french like that the most important thing IMO is to have the film precut really close to the actual measurement so you have less hanging off. always put the straight edge on top. clean the glass as well as you can, final sqweegee and wet two sides and bottom and lightly mist middle, on film only put water on top so u can line it up better. using less water also lets it tack up quicker. do the same thing to the top rows then start cutting the 3 other edges. cut an even gap, not too close thats the route to some dirt, oh also dont sqweegee out to close to the edges, just enough in the middle to get it to tack up. and very important to try to talk the customer into a light film like everyone has said, makes the gaps look better and try to keep them uniform on ALL the french panes so it looks standard, meaning they cant say well that one is really close can you make them all like that.

good luck

[Guest Tintin' Magician]

Precut, wet the film, not the glass, and flush the edges. I usually take a toothbrush around the edges as well.

[Guest filmdit]

Try pre-cutting the film, and use minimal applicator solution. PS aheasive can be the easier option too.

Good things to remember with French Pane:

-Let someone else get the job

-Use light vlt film so the gaps don't show

-Minimal water usage, try to apply film when the frames are dry

-Precut when there are debris problems

-Charge a lot of $$$

However, I prefer CDF for these type windows, it's easier to flush the film clean when needed.

I don't know about a lulu cd, but what I would suggest and mabye this is what the cd said, leave about a 1/16" gap all the way around the frames, and let the film dry for a week or so and go back and do caulking around the windows

I don't believe it says that on the CD about coming back to fill a gap.

As to the trim away and what may not be said on LLumar's CD:

I always hate when they (the consumer) comes across thinking they know better than the professional they hired.

I also know of far too many installers/fitters who what they (too) think best by bringing the film edge up to the framing in order to avoid any consumer confrontation over the issue of micro-edge, day-light install, gapping.

There is good reason for the gap, but certainly not as wide as the industry standard. 1/64-1/16 max. would be better

Although my reply to any consumer, has and always will be, "It is in keeping with the film (product) manufacturer's recommended installation requirements and... if installed up to or against the frame, would subject this installation to a null and void warranty. How would you like me to proceed?"