still need help, 3000gt hatch, a few more questions

August 14, 2007

I found when I was learning its better to let a couple fingers go on the dry shirink than over shrink something. To be honest some films are much more stubborn like CS3m. Maybe try a film that has a really good shrinking reputation. But I dryer sheet shrink then I wet shrink it and on a 3000 its ok to leave a couple side fingers you can heat them down or if need be cut a small relief line. But just don't burn it. plus leave some extra film on the top and bottom when you shrink so if you do burn it you can slide the film up or down to accomidate an imperfection. There are alot of tips but you just have to keep practicing. Don't give up man keep posting questions.

Fiveofeen · August 14, 2007

have you watched any videos of shrinking online? Dont focus on the shrinking part yet, focus on how the film has been set on the glass. Its important. You see there arent really fingers more so large areas sitting ontop of the glass. You shrink the whole area and its much easier, then work to smaller fingers.

micro-edge · August 14, 2007

When you have a hard shrink (like that car) you have to shrink slow as in shrink an area, let it sit and move to other side of the car shrink it some, then move back to the other side. In other words when the film starts getting really hot it doesn't like to shrink anymore and will crease on you but if you shrink it a good bit and let it sit till the film cools down you'll see the film will keep shrinking without creasing. That is as long as it's not lunar film :beer . What film is it btw? that could be a problem also.....

BIG E · August 14, 2007

When you have a hard shrink (like that car) you have to shrink slow as in shrink an area, let it sit and move to other side of the car shrink it some, then move back to the other side. In other words when the film starts getting really hot it doesn't like to shrink anymore and will crease on you but if you shrink it a good bit and let it sit till the film cools down you'll see the film will keep shrinking without creasing. That is as long as it's not lunar film . What film is it btw? that could be a problem also.....

Lunar could be part of the problem! :beer

Fiveofeen · August 14, 2007

Lunar could be part of the problem!

where is Dr. Newyork :beer

tintinater · August 15, 2007

Dude, you are never gonna shrink that car, that is one evil back window, even for an experienced installer..... sorry.....you need to find a malibu max or something, maybe a new impala :beer

August 15, 2007

Thanks for all the replies. Now that you guys mention it, the one time I did shrink it perfectly I did jump around a lot, and I got a phone call while tinting. That probably allowed the corners to cool more. I'll try it again tomorrow night.

I have no idea what kind of tint it is. It's some metalic 2 ply ebay film. I don't really like it because it's pretty reflective. It looks dark at night, but during the light it looks more cloudy. I'm ordering a bunch of film from a board member to continue practicing on. It's supposively black. I don't care if it's not the greatest film and it will turn purple in several years. If it does I'll just redo it. Hopefully by then I'll be a lot better at tinting.

So following peoples advice here is what I am going to try:

1. dry soap method w/ single horizontal line accross center of window

2. shrink back and forth in large areas first

3. Go back and work fingers being sure not to get too hot

4. trim tint, then do a final wet shink

shwusyrtnts · August 15, 2007

Thanks for all the replies. Now that you guys mention it, the one time I did shrink it perfectly I did jump around a lot, and I got a phone call while tinting. That probably allowed the corners to cool more. I'll try it again tomorrow night.
I have no idea what kind of tint it is. It's some metalic 2 ply ebay film. I don't really like it because it's pretty reflective. It looks dark at night, but during the light it looks more cloudy. I'm ordering a bunch of film from a board member to continue practicing on. It's supposively black. I don't care if it's not the greatest film and it will turn purple in several years. If it does I'll just redo it. Hopefully by then I'll be a lot better at tinting.

So following peoples advice here is what I am going to try:

1. dry soap method w/ single horizontal line accross center of window

2. shrink back and forth in large areas first

3. Go back and work fingers being sure not to get too hot

4. trim tint, then do a final wet shink

1. this horizontal line is used as an anchor keep the line even and taught(?) use a hard card to firmly place it on the glass

2. side to side from the center out!

3. :beer

4. when doing the "wet check " make that anchor line again and then the same steps #'s 2-3

Good Luck Falcon :klingon :dunno

November 13, 2007

I just did one last friday a strip and tint job on a 91 3000 GT fun fun, got the back in 1 no problems took about 3 hours no hurry just took my time dry with powder and 4% HP from advantage film I was glad 36" covered it. fresh paint job so I was very slow and careful, I love crawling in the back of those things :beer

May 27, 2014

Bumping my 7 year old thread:) So I am still having trouble with this lol.I've tinted a bunch of other cars for my friends but they have all been really easy to shrink (jeep, forester, sti, imprezas) A different 3000gt now that I bought a few years ago. It came from California and already had a nice tint job on it when I bought it. But since then it has turned purple. So I removed all the tint with the garbage bag/409 method. It came off great and left no sticky residue.

So I've tried 3 times to shrink the rear. I did the center anchor point, I went back and forth slow with a hard card wrapped in a micro fiber towel. I can get most of it to lay down but I always end up with a crease or two on the top or the bottom. Then I get frustrated and rip it off. I'm using Express Window Films NR 20% tint. It seems that the tint can't shrink enough.

So I tried something different this morning. I made the anchor point a little lower so that the bottom shrunk easier. That meant the top wanted to get difficult faster and want to crease at a lower spot on the window. This was alright for me though because the 3000gt glass has a bunch of privary painted band lines at the top that would hide it. I figured I'll do the bottom, apply it, cut the top creased section off, and then use a smaller piece of tint at the top since the privacy lines would hide the merge.

I cut a 4' section of tint out just to use a straight edge of it, cut it, shrunk it for the top. I went to apply it and I couldn't move it around on the back side of the privacy lines like I can on glass. I reverse rolled the 4' x 7" section up there, tried to slide it and it wouldn't budge. I pulled it off, attempted a few times to slip a corner in and get it lined up where I wanted but it was impossible. Maybe I need more baby shampoo to make it more slick for this top section? Or is there a better way to do it besides the reverse roll?

photo of my car