Advice for a noob

[Guest tsenfw]

Hey everyone, I realize this is a forum geared more torwards professional tinters but I was wondering if you could give a noob some advice.

I've attempted tinting about 3 times in the past with horrific results lol. This most recent time (2 days ago) I took my time to do lots of research, although results greatly improved I'm still having some probelms. I had my mustang done by a boomer mcloud about 7 years ago. Looked beautiful for the first 5 years but has since faded a ton, bubbles in rear window. and deteriation or something of the glue on the side windows. I have only used tint safe cleaner so I'm gonna blame cheap non metallic film.

The bottom gaskets of the side roll up windows is so tight that it actually has scratched the glass and/or tint. I think this is a common problem with fords as I've seen it alot. I removed the passenger window tint and followed the instructions on this site with the exception that I cut the film on the glass instead of using a template. I used some 5% gilla semi-metallized film. The problem I had was getting the film behind the bottom felt/gasket and the front gasket. The bottom gasket is so tight it seemed impossible to slip the tint behind, I finally got it but by the time I did I had pushed too hard and moved the film a little and got some dirt behind. Now I have very small fingers on the bottom that squeegee out but come back, not to mention 1 small crease on the bottom near the front side gasket.

When doing windows with tight gaskets is it easier to take the window out, gaskets off, or just cut the film shorter on the bottom so it easier to get underneath? Looking for some advice.

Also, noticed I missed a tiny amount of glue left on the window. Will #000 steel wool with cleaner be safe to use on the window without scratching?

[smookee408@yahoo.com]

If you took the glass out, then take it out again and redo it this time let it dry before reinstalling it. BTW that gila film will look just like your car did before you tinted it in about a few months. Get better film or your just wasting your time.

[smookee408@yahoo.com]

Welcome to the board. Here's alittle tip don't talk about illegal installs on here.

[Guest krivera418]

Welcome to the board. Here's alittle tip don't talk about illegal installs on here.

lol

[Guest tsenfw]

Oh sorry about that, I'm actually gonna take it off and put 35 or 20% on. 5 is just way to dark. What film would be good? I can't find any quality film in my area.

I didn't take my window off that's what I was asking about. Is there a solution windows with tight gaskets without taking the window off?

[Guest clint4883]

Hey everyone, I realize this is a forum geared more torwards professional tinters but I was wondering if you could give a noob some advice.

I've attempted tinting about 3 times in the past with horrific results lol. This most recent time (2 days ago) I took my time to do lots of research, although results greatly improved I'm still having some probelms. I had my mustang done by a boomer mcloud about 7 years ago. Looked beautiful for the first 5 years but has since faded a ton, bubbles in rear window. and deteriation or something of the glue on the side windows. I have only used tint safe cleaner so I'm gonna blame cheap non metallic film.

The bottom gaskets of the side roll up windows is so tight that it actually has scratched the glass and/or tint. I think this is a common problem with fords as I've seen it alot. I removed the passenger window tint and followed the instructions on this site with the exception that I cut the film on the glass instead of using a template. I used some 5% gilla semi-metallized film. The problem I had was getting the film behind the bottom felt/gasket and the front gasket. The bottom gasket is so tight it seemed impossible to slip the tint behind, I finally got it but by the time I did I had pushed too hard and moved the film a little and got some dirt behind. Now I have very small fingers on the bottom that squeegee out but come back, not to mention 1 small crease on the bottom near the front side gasket.

When doing windows with tight gaskets is it easier to take the window out, gaskets off, or just cut the film shorter on the bottom so it easier to get underneath? Looking for some advice.

Also, noticed I missed a tiny amount of glue left on the window. Will #000 steel wool with cleaner be safe to use on the window without scratching?

just a little tip, take it to a PROFESSIONAL! by the time you take it off and redo it 2 or three more times, and that is probably how many times it will take you, you could have paid someone to do it with quality film.

if you want to keep trying you can tuck the gaskets with a slammer or a bone "push stick". and slip it be hind the front gasket. use your heat gun for the fingers. heat the glass from the outside a little, be very careful, and use a chizzler to push down the finger or a hard card with a paper towel.

I know you probably don't have these tools and that is another reason to take it to a professional. it takes time and lots of practice to learn this trade not many people can just decide they want to start tinting cars and be good at it with in the first 2 or 3 vehicles.

[smookee408@yahoo.com]

Oh sorry about that, I'm actually gonna take it off and put 35 or 20% on. 5 is just way to dark. What film would be good? I can't find any quality film in my area.

I didn't take my window off that's what I was asking about. Is there a solution windows with tight gaskets without taking the window off?

You can get some good film and tools here. http://www.autowindowtinting.com/ the owner is a member on this board.

[2fas4u]

lol. remove the door panel if the gasket is that tight. if not use a pick the open the seal and then a squeege to keep the seal open.

[Guest tsenfw]

lol. remove the door panel if the gasket is that tight. if not use a pick the open the seal and then a squeege to keep the seal open.

Yeah, if I remove the door panel the gasket is still attached to the door. I tried holding the gasket back with a squeegee but it's too tight. I'm currently searching if there's a way to remove the gasket.

Thanks for the help everyone.

What are some good film brands?

[Guest Key West]

Hey everyone, I realize this is a forum geared more torwards professional tinters but I was wondering if you could give a noob some advice.

I've attempted tinting about 3 times in the past with horrific results lol. This most recent time (2 days ago) I took my time to do lots of research, although results greatly improved I'm still having some probelms. I had my mustang done by a boomer mcloud about 7 years ago. Looked beautiful for the first 5 years but has since faded a ton, bubbles in rear window. and deteriation or something of the glue on the side windows. I have only used tint safe cleaner so I'm gonna blame cheap non metallic film.

The bottom gaskets of the side roll up windows is so tight that it actually has scratched the glass and/or tint. I think this is a common problem with fords as I've seen it alot. I removed the passenger window tint and followed the instructions on this site with the exception that I cut the film on the glass instead of using a template. I used some 5% gilla semi-metallized film. The problem I had was getting the film behind the bottom felt/gasket and the front gasket. The bottom gasket is so tight it seemed impossible to slip the tint behind, I finally got it but by the time I did I had pushed too hard and moved the film a little and got some dirt behind. Now I have very small fingers on the bottom that squeegee out but come back, not to mention 1 small crease on the bottom near the front side gasket.

When doing windows with tight gaskets is it easier to take the window out, gaskets off, or just cut the film shorter on the bottom so it easier to get underneath? Looking for some advice.

Also, noticed I missed a tiny amount of glue left on the window. Will #000 steel wool with cleaner be safe to use on the window without scratching?

Looks like you did everything right (with the exception of admitting to 5%, and NEVER admit you used Gila)). I generally set the bottom of the window first. I use my head to "push the glass" away from the gasket and slide the film behind it. (I just know I'm gonna catch hell over this, but hey, at least I'm using my head) Then I can situate the film where I want it at the top and side. Once I get it where I want it, I then squeegee it. I hope I was clear, and you were able to follow the process I use.

just a little tip, take it to a PROFESSIONAL! by the time you take it off and redo it 2 or three more times, and that is probably how many times it will take you, you could have paid someone to do it with quality film.

if you want to keep trying you can tuck the gaskets with a slammer or a bone "push stick". and slip it be hind the front gasket. use your heat gun for the fingers. heat the glass from the outside a little, be very careful, and use a chizzler to push down the finger or a hard card with a paper towel.

I know you probably don't have these tools and that is another reason to take it to a professional. it takes time and lots of practice to learn this trade not many people can just decide they want to start tinting cars and be good at it with in the first 2 or 3 vehicles.

Some folks just like the satisfaction of doing it themselves, no matter how bad the aggravation. High Five to ya!! (Hope you got plenty of xanax)

lol. remove the door panel if the gasket is that tight. if not use a pick the open the seal and then a squeege to keep the seal open.

Yeah, if I remove the door panel the gasket is still attached to the door. I tried holding the gasket back with a squeegee but it's too tight. I'm currently searching if there's a way to remove the gasket.

Thanks for the help everyone.

What are some good film brands?

It's a Ford. I haven't ever tried to remove the gasket on a mustang, since I figured out how to do it like I do, but being a Ford, I would think that the gasket just sits along the door frame with pinch-weld. Try using a hook or something and lift at one end. It should come out relatively easy. And it should go back the same way with a little downward pressure.