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Nooooo don't use silicone!!!! :lol2 It will attack the film.

It is good to let the edges dry out for at least a day before sealing. Always use the factory recommended sealant. CP Films has a pretty cool applicator that looks like a felt-tipped pen. I use that and it goes pretty fast. :rollin

I've used silicone with no problems at all, and I've done it on boats too.

But my goal vas to prevent passengers to see that there is an edge so that they don't try to take it off, and it was ATR film

Just don't use acidic based silicone, use neutral.

vclimber - did you ment that it will attack the film in general because of the acid

or you ment just the layer that would corrode anyhow?

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Guest vclimber
Nooooo don't use silicone!!!! :inot It will attack the film.

It is good to let the edges dry out for at least a day before sealing. Always use the factory recommended sealant. CP Films has a pretty cool applicator that looks like a felt-tipped pen. I use that and it goes pretty fast. :rollin

I've used silicone with no problems at all, and I've done it on boats too.

But my goal vas to prevent passengers to see that there is an edge so that they don't try to take it off, and it was ATR film

Just don't use acidic based silicone, use neutral.

vclimber - did you ment that it will attack the film in general because of the acid

or you ment just the layer that would corrode anyhow?

The acidic nature is a problem and I do know that there are certain types of sealants that can be used on films. Whether or not the metal would or would not be affected is up for debate, however, the fact is that the MFG recommends and more importantly warranties their product as long as the proper sealer is used. So it is best to stick with what they give you if you want a warranty to stay in force. :thumb

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re: Max 5000

it is siliconized caulk if that makes a difference, as oppossed to 100% silicone sealant.

Back in the day, the Sun Protective dist in Pleasanton Ca used to claim that silicone sealant(s) migrate inches inward from the edges of glass when used by the glaziers.

Urban (tinter) legend?

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Guest yogi2187

I have used nutral silicone 4yrs later still no problem; I had a one window job and custy wanted black so I tried the liquid electric tape comes in a can and diff colors small brush and worked well. It has been 2 and 1/2 yrs still looks and holds great :thumb

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re: Max 5000

it is siliconized caulk if that makes a difference, as oppossed to 100% silicone sealant.

Back in the day, the Sun Protective dist in Pleasanton Ca used to claim that silicone sealant(s) migrate inches inward from the edges of glass when used by the glaziers.

Urban (tinter) legend?

cool just used that on a 76 skylights :thumb

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Guest thirdmolars1996
Nooooo don't use silicone!!!! :duck It will attack the film.

It is good to let the edges dry out for at least a day before sealing. Always use the factory recommended sealant. CP Films has a pretty cool applicator that looks like a felt-tipped pen. I use that and it goes pretty fast. :)

I've used silicone with no problems at all, and I've done it on boats too.

But my goal vas to prevent passengers to see that there is an edge so that they don't try to take it off, and it was ATR film

Just don't use acidic based silicone, use neutral.

vclimber - did you ment that it will attack the film in general because of the acid

or you ment just the layer that would corrode anyhow?

The acidic nature is a problem and I do know that there are certain types of sealants that can be used on films. Whether or not the metal would or would not be affected is up for debate, however, the fact is that the MFG recommends and more importantly warranties their product as long as the proper sealer is used. So it is best to stick with what they give you if you want a warranty to stay in force. :lol

Vclimber:

I'm trying to fill in a gap on my car tint (Suntek CXP). The gap is about 5mm in lenght and 1mm in diameter...and it's right next to the weatherstripping. This gap allows light in...Not much...but I notice it. What silicone adhesive or filler material do you recommend that is safe for tint?

I initially use Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive...but saw your posting and removed it within 20mins before it set....

Cleaned off the residual with a little rubbing alcohol. It evaporate within 2 mins (hot sun).

Thanks. Sorry for hijacking this thread. Tried, sending you a PM, but I dont have enough posting yet,.

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