Shrinking

December 21, 2008

I don't get it, I been using this cheap 2ply metal pos film I bought off ebay to just practice shrinking with. I can get it down almost perfect everytime. As soon as I use my good film to do a Job I have problems with creases and stuff.

I been dry shrinking with dryer sheets, then got sick blahblah blah I know dryer sheets are bad, so I used the Mdog soap method and it doesnt work well for me. Is there something out there that would make it work like the dryer sheets and shrink good?

Im using global QDP on the actual cars in the end.

The stuff I practiced shrinking with is that DNF stuff off ebay. I know I don't have a lot of heating shrinking experience but its weird that a off brand shrinks so easy.

Ryker · December 21, 2008

I use a heavy slip mix for my shrink solution. I have a sprayer that I keep mixed up heavy for those sticky windows. Just mist the back glass with it, wipe it lightly to spread and let it dry. Will work like dryer sheet residue....the heavier the slip solution the more it will tack down.

When I still used the dryer sheets I would use one sheet for months. There was very little residue left behind past the first few times.....

Global is known for shrinking a bit different. I don't find that to be true, but I shrink a bit different from the start. Check out the Ryk Shrink on the main forum page......you will also see my slip mix for shrinking.

December 21, 2008

I'm definitely going to have to look into the ryk shrink. I just got my 2nd heat gun last week so I could be a double gunner lol.

Tint Artist · December 21, 2008

The Ryk shrink is a great technique to learn when shrinking back glass! On most cars it's a time saver and easier method for shrinking!! :rollin

December 21, 2008

I watched the video, and you make it look like nothing to it. I'm going to give it a shot when I go to my shop later on.

tint45 · December 21, 2008

I don't know that adding an extra heat gun will help here. You said that you were able to shrink the metalized film with much more success than what you're currently using. I think (although I may be wrong) that metalized film is more resistant to heating, which makes the process take longer but the film is much more forgiving to too much heat being applied in the wrong places. Are you noticing that your Global film is reacting to heat much more quickly than the brand that you received from ebay?

Ryker · December 21, 2008

While I have not had hands on any QDP I use Global HP and have for a year. I have had hands on Sungard Slate, Suntek Carbon and HP, Johnson Sihloette and Rayguard, and some HP Madico....not found much difference in the films. Some will shrink faster, some will shrink farther, but they all seemed much the same....

December 21, 2008

The global doesn't want to lay down as smooth and easy as the other stuff. It does seem that global does react very quick though.

tint45 · December 22, 2008

It sounds like your film is getting too much heat too quickly in any specific place. When in trouble spots, try backing the heat gun away to the point where the film doesn't react at all and then slowly move toward the film until it reacts. Also make sure that you're passing the heat over as large an area as possible to minimize shaping the film into lots of individual fingers. guest has a pretty good video somewhere on here that I believe demonstrates this concept very well.

If you're getting all of your practice on one film and all of your actual installs are with another having drastically different characteristics, the practice might not be as helpful.

December 22, 2008

I'm going to grab a tough back glass tomorrow from the junk yard since they're only 30bucks. Any recommendations on something pretty challenging but not a total nightmare?

I tried some practice with a sample roll of QDP and had a little bit of success. I did a volvo s60 rear glass no problem in it. Thats a pretty easy one though