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Guest joesinla

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Guest joesinla

Does anyone know how I would go about doing a logo cut out of white frost? I assume I have to take the film to someone who has a plotter/cutter. Is the install difficult? Is it worth it?

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Call around on pricing . . . some will see you as a repeat custy and give you a good price others will see you as a competitor and charge you retail. Installation method depends on whether you are using vinyl or polyester window film. Neither are too difficult.

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Does anyone know how I would go about doing a logo cut out of white frost? I assume I have to take the film to someone who has a plotter/cutter. Is the install difficult? Is it worth it?

White Frost film may not work well for the logo if it has small structures that have to be masked to hold together. Vinyl films are made to be used for this.

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Does anyone know how I would go about doing a logo cut out of white frost? I assume I have to take the film to someone who has a plotter/cutter. Is the install difficult? Is it worth it?

White Frost film may not work well for the logo if it has small structures that have to be masked to hold together. Vinyl films are made to be used for this.

I never use masking tape on film..I transfer it use the cali roll tecknique and then place clear back over the logo to hard card the water out, just as I would if I was tinting it normally..there is several different ways to acheive a great out come. the easiest way, would be to tint the whole door. tranfer the logo to a door piece 36X72 and then put that whole peice on the glass and finish it off as a normal tint installation process

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Does anyone know how I would go about doing a logo cut out of white frost? I assume I have to take the film to someone who has a plotter/cutter. Is the install difficult? Is it worth it?

White Frost film may not work well for the logo if it has small structures that have to be masked to hold together. Vinyl films are made to be used for this.

I never use masking tape on film..I transfer it use the cali roll tecknique and then place clear back over the logo to hard card the water out, just as I would if I was tinting it normally..there is several different ways to acheive a great out come. the easiest way, would be to tint the whole door. tranfer the logo to a door piece 36X72 and then put that whole peice on the glass and finish it off as a normal tint installation process

Hi Jeff

I like doing graphics and logos in my film and have used application tape at times. However if there is a better way always keen to learn. What is the cali roll technique you mention, and can it be used on small pieces?

just checked you myspace site and like your graphics. When you doing the three tone effects what is the light grey layer you using with the silver/

great stuff

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Does anyone know how I would go about doing a logo cut out of white frost? I assume I have to take the film to someone who has a plotter/cutter. Is the install difficult? Is it worth it?

White Frost film may not work well for the logo if it has small structures that have to be masked to hold together. Vinyl films are made to be used for this.

I never use masking tape on film..I transfer it use the cali roll tecknique and then place clear back over the logo to hard card the water out, just as I would if I was tinting it normally..there is several different ways to acheive a great out come. the easiest way, would be to tint the whole door. tranfer the logo to a door piece 36X72 and then put that whole peice on the glass and finish it off as a normal tint installation process

Hi Jeff

I like doing graphics and logos in my film and have used application tape at times. However if there is a better way always keen to learn. What is the cali roll technique you mention, and can it be used on small pieces?

just checked you myspace site and like your graphics. When you doing the three tone effects what is the light grey layer you using with the silver/

great stuff

cali roll -would be just as if your doing a big flat glass window, you can look threw here and find videos...basicaly your rolling the film up tight after its cut. you actual dont weed it out untill its hard carded on the glass. once you have it rolled tight you pull the clear and rap it back on itself, then just unroll it. I fould out that if you place the logo with aleast 6 inches more from the egde "it unrolls great having the extra". I always remove the clear and rewet the logo placing the clear back on it to hard card. trying to keep the clear clean, since you will use it more than once "then weed it" place the clear on it wet and hard carding for the last time."sweldom do I need to repeat after weeding, but the logo size and thickness play a roll in the last hard card push"

as far as types of films I use "Llumar ATR 30%,15% and p/p 35%,20% I found the best way is making the first cut with the black, the hello kittie was done that way...my gator head, I like it the best cutting it out of silver first. ive have been doing this so many different ways and never thought I could achieve the look I do from tint. the hardest part is making the logos look good from both sides. the deer I did looks good from the outside but I think it looks great from the inside, alot of my work has been leaning toward what it looks like from the inside.

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problem with using the reverse roll on frosted film is the very tacky adhesive. when rolling the film out the liner sometimes wants to seperate the design. depends on the design of course. some frosted custom jobs I've reverse rolled....some I've used a light tack tranfer tape. using the transfer tape isn't a problem with frosted film because the film tacks up so quickly it makes it easy to remove the transfer tape. we all have our own ways of doing it. :lol6

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Thanks for that Jeff.

Know and use reverse roll often just not heard it as Cali roll or used on cut graphics.

Will try it on cut film and weeding after as I usually use light tack application tape but do often find it can lift small pieces of the design.

Other way I have tried is to weed the design then remove liner from main backing tint on transfer board and recover with cut design still on liner before moving to window and installing. Works well on small intricate one colour designs as held in place well by main film but does increase risk of contamination.

All the graphics on here were done one of these two ways.

Leprchaun was done each colour a seperate layer on application tape.

Kayaker black on silver done transferring to silver film before application. was easy but small amount of contamination. Luckily not noticed much on the silver film.

Kayaker silver on charcoal tint done with application tape on weeded graphic onto window then backing tint done after. This caused headache with small sections but had almost no contamination.

always learning

cheers

Stuart

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All the graphics on here were done one of these two ways.

Leprchaun was done each colour a seperate layer on application tape.

Kayaker black on silver done transferring to silver film before application. was easy but small amount of contamination. Luckily not noticed much on the silver film.

Kayaker silver on charcoal tint done with application tape on weeded graphic onto window then backing tint done after. This caused headache with small sections but had almost no contamination.

always learning

cheers

Stuart

Yeah...but can ya do "negative shadow art"? :hmmm:hmmm:drevil

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