Frost film lifting....

October 28, 2010

How do you prevent film from lifting from edges? Is this maybe caused by cutting(liner side vs. film side)?

Looks fine when mounted, then a day or two later comes up... Does using alcohol solution help?

I just started doing more and more of these type of design patterns on windows. Using JWF film, in this case.

Thanks :bingo

TomTint · October 28, 2010

We do tons of frost, the burr on the edge where you cut the film is worse with some films than others. Frosted vinyl will almost always lay down better than frosted film. If that is not a option try using a thin exacto blade instead of a olfa

October 28, 2010

TT, Thanks... I had a feeling it had something to do with the film.

October 28, 2010

Any brand film better than other? LuLu probably best? Or should I just switch to the frosted vinyl?

October 28, 2010

I always do a "test" install, in shop, before doing customer install (as we all do...LOL). Which, the result shown in picture is not acceptable at ALL!!! Thanks, again... :beer

October 28, 2010

One way to make that films edge lay down, would be to cut your clear boarder a 1/4" smaller then hard card it, let the film setup and then do your final trim with a fresh blade and peel off the excess. "that's just one way"......... :thumb

As far as using anything like alcohol after to help lay the edge down.. :nope

WearTheFoxHat · November 1, 2010

A couple of questions.

Did you cut the film to size on a table then install it?

Dull blades and any space (like the cork on the back of a ruler) allow the film to deform.

Did you install the film then run a spacer and the knife down the sides to get the border?

If you aren't already in the habit of snapping your blade after every 3 or 4 feet of cutting you ought to try it and witness the goodness.

The pics look like the blade is probably dull and deforming the edge causing the lifting.

Another cause is not waiting until the film has had a chance to bond to the glass before cutting the border.

If you wait the right time for your particular film to bond then cut it you should not have any lifting.

Do a test with your usual slip and install methods in your shop. Wait about 2 mins between each test cut.

Keep a low angle approximately 10 degrees. As you cut you should be able to "feel" the blade dulling.

I have seen similar lifting where someone actually cut the glass because they pressed too hard using one of the "giant" olfas

November 3, 2010

A couple of questions. Just noticed your comments...thank for the effort!
Did you cut the film to size on a table then install it? Cut on glass peel-board.

Dull blades and any space (like the cork on the back of a ruler) allow the film to deform. Fresh blade, aluminum ruler...no cork.

Did you install the film then run a spacer and the knife down the sides to get the border? Measured pane minus distance for border.

If you aren't already in the habit of snapping your blade after every 3 or 4 feet of cutting you ought to try it and witness the goodness. I go through lots of blades...my car installs. Created habit of snapping each time knife comes in contact with glass!

The pics look like the blade is probably dull and deforming the edge causing the lifting. Not sure...new Olfa blad(s)

Another cause is not waiting until the film has had a chance to bond to the glass before cutting the border. Pre-cut?

If you wait the right time for your particular film to bond then cut it you should not have any lifting. This might be the key! How long to wait? 30-45 mins?

Do a test with your usual slip and install methods in your shop. Wait about 2 mins between each test cut.

Keep a low angle approximately 10 degrees. As you cut you should be able to "feel" the blade dulling.

I have seen similar lifting where someone actually cut the glass because they pressed too hard using one of the "giant" olfas I always use the SVR-2 Olfa. Large Olfa only for occasional security film installs...

Thanks again! Any comments?

callwild · November 3, 2010

We do tons of frost, the burr on the edge where you cut the film is worse with some films than others. Frosted vinyl will almost always lay down better than frosted film. If that is not a option try using a thin exacto blade instead of a olfa

I will usually use vinyl frost as well where I can, but some jobs call for film, (Longer length of life and more opaque than many vinyl frosts).

Having said that I when using film I have not had this problem with Solar Gard Clear frost either cut on the window or pre-cut on my plotter.

Only ever problem with frost film was when installing in a Hair Salon in the winter which had single glazing with loads of condensation.

Even then the edges stuck fine with only a couple of fingers developing at a later date where it was covering a vinyl design. Bekeart reps assured me it was a very aggressive glue and even 2 months after the initial install it pushed down and stuck fine with a little help from a hair dryer.

November 3, 2010

We do tons of frost, the burr on the edge where you cut the film is worse with some films than others. Frosted vinyl will almost always lay down better than frosted film. If that is not a option try using a thin exacto blade instead of a olfa

I will usually use vinyl frost as well where I can, but some jobs call for film, (Longer length of life and more opaque than many vinyl frosts).

Having said that I when using film I have not had this problem with Solar Gard Clear frost either cut on the window or pre-cut on my plotter.

Only ever problem with frost film was when installing in a Hair Salon in the winter which had single glazing with loads of condensation.

Even then the edges stuck fine with only a couple of fingers developing at a later date where it was covering a vinyl design. Bekeart reps assured me it was a very aggressive glue and even 2 months after the initial install it pushed down and stuck fine with a little help from a hair dryer.

Thanks for the input... :welcome