dot matrix, "again"

tuttle · August 25, 2011

brand new 2011 malabu, layed the film into dot matrix after 7 days drying, :shoot2

customer dose not like the highlights, still see the ring around the dot, :shoot2

thinking i can fill in the dots with clear nail polish, :idea

1 or maybe 2 coats and scuff with scotchbrite pad,

customer has $$$ to correct the problem, :beer

he wished that i done it right the first time but understands the difficulty, :dumbass

1.5 mill film verses 3 mill dots, and his first car with "the dots"

August 25, 2011

Strange, usually its the BMW owners who complain. After pressing them down, and saying thats the best anyone can do, a refund and removal is the easiest way out of that picky customer. IMO. I never used nail polish because I feel like its way too much trouble and luckily to this day everyones understood about the dots (after lengthy explanations).

What do the other shops in your area do about it?

bobwires · August 25, 2011

How well does nail polish work on big dots? I've only used elmers gel.

August 25, 2011

Am I the only one that paints the dot matrix...? Not every car, but certain ones I know look like crap with film over them.

August 25, 2011

in 90% cases I dont do anything about matrix dots, not worth the time, if someone really doesnt like them, (small rings around the dots) on R&R which is payed as I always inform customer it will be there, I just heat the fu.. out of glass and use conqueror to push film into matrix, mostly it turns out very nicely but thats maybe 10% of people, maybe not even that. I always tell customer to push film on matrix with finger after week so they are happy then can do something on their own and feel happy

Am I the only one that paints the dot matrix...? Not every car, but certain ones I know look like crap with film over them.

paint with what? some kind of primer or how you call it?

shadytints · August 25, 2011

ive tried just about everything on dotmatrix. on quarter glass or back window sides i dont do anything, they can live with a little ring. will press down in 24 to 48 hours a little. if you wait to long the glue wont stick, to soon and its still wet. upper borders like older mustangs grand prixs and suck there are a few tricks. 300 wetsand paper will scuff them down but you have to put a towel down to catch the mess. 3m grey or red scrub pads will do the same and last alot longer. if someone complains a little i peel it back and use cleaqr school glue. fills in nicely. a new product out is called probond which is a adhesive accelerator. i have used it once and need a few more cars before i can say whether i like it or not. as for the really picky customers, rustoleum flat black primer bonds well to glass and looks great. i charge an additional 40 to paint the dots

August 25, 2011

Paint with flat-black paint on the inside, shy of the tint. Cover EVERYTHING, use masking paper/tape, etc...Search for thread on how to... Old technique that not many people do(only on the back glass). But, I still do for my customers when the dot matrix is over 1"-2" wide.

Ryker · August 25, 2011

there was talk about using a headlight sealer from Liquid Resins back a year or two ago....I am sure that would be good to use....

on the paint thing, I had to R&R a Trans Am that had paint on the dots.....the paint was coming off like crazy esp after I bagged the window.... that sucked removing.

I just use steel wool and the use "pro-bond" on them and have only had a couple customers complain in the last 7 years or so...

shadytints · August 25, 2011

there was talk about using a headlight sealer from Liquid Resins back a year or two ago....I am sure that would be good to use....
on the paint thing, I had to R&R a Trans Am that had paint on the dots.....the paint was coming off like crazy esp after I bagged the window.... that sucked removing.

I just use steel wool and the use "pro-bond" on them and have only had a couple customers complain in the last 7 years or so...

i just got a bottle of pro bond in last week. used a dauber(large q-tip) to apply it and tried to squeegee it up. seemed to tack to quickly. can you explain your technique for using probond? seems it will help and any insight will help with my trials and errors